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[gder]

I'm finishing the basement next year and am looking to make it X10 ready in the process.  I woud like all of the lights to have local and remote dimming capability.  The push button style switches aren't really the look we want but the decorator line looks like it will do quite nicely.  If I read the product descriptions right the only decorator lines switch that has local dimming controlls is the WS12A, the 3-way master switch.  Is this correct and is there a problem using the WS12A on 2-way circuits? 

Also I've read that X10 requires the neutral wire for proper operation.  While I'm wiring the basement will 2 conductor wire work for the X10 light circuits including the 3-way circuits or do I need to be using 3 conductor wire?


Thank in advance

Gene

[Puck]

If I read the product descriptions right the only decorator lines switch that has local dimming controlls is the WS12A, the 3-way master switch.  Is this correct and is there a problem using the WS12A on 2-way circuits? 

The WS12A will give you local dimming control, and it will work fine in just a 2-way circuit... you just have to cap off the traveller wire.

Also I've read that X10 requires the neutral wire for proper operation.  While I'm wiring the basement will 2 conductor wire work for the X10 light circuits including the 3-way circuits or do I need to be using 3 conductor wire?

Only some X10 switches need the neutral wire; the WS12A does not.

It costs a lot less to run the neutral wires into the switch boxes now than it does after the walls are finished. 
Having the neutral there allows more switch type options.

[Brian H]

I would also try and get a Neutral in new wiring. If you ever decide to go with low voltage lights or CFL type lights. Dimming switches are a problem and the relay type that don't dim; use a Neutral Wire in the switch box.

[KDR]

Regardless of the need to have it for X10 modules I think you will find that the national electric code and your local electrical code will require 12-2 with ground for outlets, minimum of 14-2 with ground for lighting. You may also want to consider if your going to have any 3-way switches that you run the 12-3 with ground between the switch boxes. This way if you ever move and pull the X10 out you could install standard electrical outlets, switches and 3-ways if need be. Also look at the need to run phone cable, cat 5 network cable and maybe any extra cables for cameras.

[Brian H]

Yes I think the Electrical Code requires a neutral. My older home is only two wires in many of the switch boxes. No ground either

[gil shultz]

Good Evening,

Keep it simple.  The lighting belongs on a 15A circuit, not 20 wired with #14.  Outlets should be on 20A circuits wired with #12 wire.  That correctly states that there are at least two circuits in that room. Plugging in a faulted device will trip the protection device but you can still see to go fix it.

Using #12 for the lighting systems with the idea of putting plugs later has some merit but it is still on a 15A circuit.  The #14 wire has a bit more resistance which will allow a larger voltage drop during the turn on inrush (100W lamp approaches 15A inrush depending on temperature).  This reduces the stress on the lamp filament potentially increasing its life.

When I wire three way and four way switches I typically start at one and feed it with a 14X2/Wg and use a 14X3/Wg to go to the next switch ending with a three way at the far end.  I then run a 14X3/Wg to the ceiling fixture and cap off the red wire (you never know when a fan will be added).  If there is more then one ceiling fixture I go between them with 14X3/Wg as well.  All grounds are twisted together and crimped with the appropriate terminal.  Grounding is very important with X10, ask the people that don't have it.

I beleive this will be compatable with all X10 devices.

Don't use to much wire!

Gil Shultz