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[sherrodclan]

I have just re-formatted my hard drive and I am trying to re-install the CM15A and VA11A modules. I keep getting an error message "USB Device not recognized" . I have totally un-installed my X10 software, re-booted, and then re-installed the software per an emial from X10 and I am still getting these errors. I am wondering if the two modules mentioned above have gone bad? I need your help.

[Boiler]

sherrodclan,
I'm assuming you re-installed your operating system and that AHP was operating previously - correct?

What OS are you running (XP, Vista, other)?

If XP, have you installed service pack 1 in order to get USB2 support?  Check you device manager to see if you have any unknown device problems.

If you're running a different OS, or you've already checked the above items (I really don't mean to be insulting) try the following installation link - http://kbase.x10.com/wiki/Getting_ActiveHome_Pro_Started_and_Working

[Dan Lawrence]

One other thing to try:  Unplug the CM15A from the AC power and remove the batteries. Unplug the USB cable from it.  Shut the PC down.   Then re-insert the batteries, plug the USB cable back in the CM15A and plug it in to the AC power.  Turn the PC back on ("Boot it") and as Windows loads, you should hear a "beep".  Once Windows has loaded, open the Control Panel and select the System Properties.  Once it opens, click the Hardware tab, then click the Device Manager. When it opens, drill down to USB Devices and expand it. You should see "X10 USB ActiveHome (APCI Compliant)". That's the CM15A!!!

[sherrodclan]

Thank you Dan Lawrence you suggestion worked.  My CM15A is now recognized by my computer.

[Dan Lawrence]

That's the first thing to do when Windows throws a hissy fit. When I moved my hard drives to a new computer (I didn't want to play the reformat/reload game) I had to do that.

Glad it worked for you.

[waterstom]

I am having basically the same issue, but am pretty familiar with having had it before.  I have done everything listed before even coming back to the forum.  The only thing I can think of why mine isn't working ...  Does the CM15A require USB 2.0?

I am just moving this device from my main pc to a different PC which I have completely reformatted and has nothing but an OS on it, to be my dedicated X10 server.  On the primary PC, the CM15A was in what I believe was a standard USB port, and my video adapter was in the one port I believed was 2.0  and everything worked fine.

I will eventually have to migrate to 2.0 on this new machine, I just didn't plan on doing it TODAY.

Anyone else know the requirements for 2.0 vs 1.0 USB?

[TakeTheActive]

...Does the CM15A require USB 2.0?

...Anyone else know the requirements for 2.0 vs 1.0 USB?

No.

Mine has alway been running on USB 1.1; if you search for posts from -Bill- (the BXVC Guy), IIRC his WON'T even run on USB 2.0.

Wikipedia: Universal Serial Bus

[waterstom]

Thanks SO much.  Since you said so I tried the combinations of batteries, plugging in and unplugging to wall, to pc, etc a few more times and it is working now. (I also discovered a fragile usb extension cord , sheepish grin)

Here's the newest weirdness -  (sorry if wrong catagory, or too much here...)

This all started b/c I finally picked up a thrift-shop pc for 24 bucks to be my dedicated X10 server.  That pc is doing GREAT believe it or not. But I've finally seen some things that I couldn't "see" before:

• 1.) My UR19A Super Remote seems to work 100% better than any hand-held controller I have, grey, black, or white.
  
  
• 2.) I purchased a repeater b/c of the horrible range of the CM15A and it wasn't doing a darn thing.  No lights when activity other than TEST.  I see when I use the UR19A near it (I used that remote exclusively in the back room of the house before) it "appears" to be working, ie: it lights, pauses, and lights again. (note, I also lengthened my CM15A rcv antenna a few inches by opening the case and extending the extra wire there)
  

BUT- I STILL have to have a TM751 in place.  I stand at the PC (located in back of house) with my UR19A and see the on-screen switches do what I press on the remote for any code.  BUT no signal appears to be sent, ie: lights do not come on/off for some of the codes. Without the TM751 some codes work, with the 751 all codes seem to work from any point in the house (using the UR19)

I am re-doing my system, testing  with only 1 housecode assigned (D) and it is set to Specific, and Monitored, and Transceived (too many variables, sheesh).

You may say then just leave it plugged it, but here's the issue: I want to use macros which rely on motion sensors for motion, and specific time windows (the macro is to turn bathroom lights on when motion is detected, except between the hours of midnight and dawn, for those late-night get-up-to-pees), and with the 751 in place, it always receives the signal and triggers the light so the macro doesn't function.

Any idea why my CM15 appears to be only interfacing with the pc?


[TTA Edit: Formatted so that *I* could read it (needed more WHITESPACE). ]

[Brian H]

Macros should not be on the same address house code-unit code as the modules it is controlling. As you found if the motion sensor and the controlled device are on the same address it controls them directly.
Many computer power supplies make lots of powerline noise or absorb X10 signals. So the CM15As signals maybe degraded by the computer. A filter maybe needed. I had to add one to my APB BX1000 UPS so it did not kill over 50% of my signal strength.

[Boiler]

[li]2.) I purchased a repeater b/c of the horrible range of the CM15A and it wasn't doing a darn thing.  No lights when activity other than TEST.  I see when I use the UR19A near it (I used that remote exclusively in the back room of the house before) it "appears" to be working, ie: it lights, pauses, and lights again. (note, I also lengthened my CM15A rcv antenna a few inches by opening the case and extending the extra wire there)
[/li][/list]

I own a repeater as well and use it for exactly the same reason - my motion sensor signal can't make it from the second floor to the basement (where my CM15a is located).  I've had good success with the repeater (99%) and I haven't made any RF mod's to my CM15a (box stock). 

How far is your repeater from the motion sensor?
How far is the repeater from the CM15a? 

You may find that moving the repeater around will get it out of a "dead zone" (plumbing/ductwork) and allow commutation with the CM15a.

BUT- I STILL have to have a TM751 in place.  I stand at the PC (located in back of house) with my UR19A and see the on-screen switches do what I press on the remote for any code.  BUT no signal appears to be sent, ie: lights do not come on/off for some of the codes. Without the TM751 some codes work, with the 751 all codes seem to work from any point in the house (using the UR19)

I am re-doing my system, testing  with only 1 housecode assigned (D) and it is set to Specific, and Monitored, and Transceived (too many variables, sheesh).

You may say then just leave it plugged it, but here's the issue: I want to use macros which rely on motion sensors for motion, and specific time windows (the macro is to turn bathroom lights on when motion is detected, except between the hours of midnight and dawn, for those late-night get-up-to-pees), and with the 751 in place, it always receives the signal and triggers the light so the macro doesn't function.

Brian_H is exactly correct on the use of a macro at the same address as a hardware receiver when using a TM751.  The TM751 is transceiving your motion sensor RF to the power line and directly activating your switch (it's also activating your macro but the light is already on so your conditionals aren't buying you anything).  I you move your motion sensor/macro to a new unit code it will activate the macro only (and turn on your bathroom light per the conditionals).  Be careful to leave an open unit code above the one assigned to your motion sensor - it will transmit day/night X10 (on/off) at it's assigned address + 1.

However (yep there's a always a however)

• It's not good practice to have two transceivers on the same house code (your TM751 and the CM15a).  You should probably disable the transceived CM15a house code that the TM751 is operating on.  This is to eliminate "collisions" between the two devices (see next item).
• The TM751 (at least mine - it's a 2001 model) aren't very smart devices.  They (again, my device) don't check the power line to see if another device is communicating prior to "climbing on".  The result is a X10 collision which may be unintelligible to your receivers (switches).
• If you elect to go back to the repeater (eliminate the TM751) macros should work at the same address as your hardware device is you disable the trancevied house code.  With the transceived house code off, the CM15a will respond to the RF input and activate your macro (assuming you have a recent model CM15a - '06 or later).  It will not place the received RF on the power line (not transceived) and will therefor not activate your switch directly.

[waterstom]

Brian H and Boiler -
Thanks for your posts.  As usual, I read them and see another angle on a problem.  That is what's great about this forum.
I have tried multiple scenarios. the repeater sits atop a cabinet in the kitchen, no metal roof, or ducting.  It's even near a window.  It only just today seemed to be working after being their for months, as I used a different remote (I am going to buy several more of them and can the other ones I'd been using for years)
It is straight-line about 30 feet from the CM15a but there are 4 walls between.  Old house, so nothing major but still.  The repeater sits very close to the bathroom sensor,
I just can't seem to get the system to work 100% without having the TM751 AND the CM15 both up and in place.
I understand about the signals colliding,  but that's kinda solved since the CM15 is so deaf, I figure most of the time it doesn't hear the signal anyway.  In fact I believe for the longest time it didn't work at all.

I will try the idea of moving the macro tripping sensor to another housecode and see how that works.

I think I  just now finally get the difference between monitored and transceived ...  I have seen many posts and attempts at explanation on this topic and maybe now I get it; and I'm even a radio guy...sheesh.

We're getting too far OT here, but my main problem is intermittent operation thru the CM15A (i think?) such that my system is only so-so reliable (but then it has it's days like all of us)

[Boiler]

waterstom,
Just re-read your original post and caught something-

...I stand at the PC (located in back of house) with my UR19A and see the on-screen switches do what I press on the remote for any code.  BUT no signal appears to be sent, ie: lights do not come on/off for some of the codes. Without the TM751 some codes work, with the 751 all codes seem to work from any point in the house (using the UR19)

Another CM15a idiosyncarcy- if you have a macro at the same address as a hardare module and receive a RF on command, the macro will activate and your hardare device will not (you will see your switch change states on the AHP screen but the signal will not be sent over the powerline - you can check this in the activity monitor).  In your case, is it possible that your macro had conditionals that prevented your hardare from turning on?

In contrast that TM751 will transceive the RF and turn the device on.

[waterstom]

Thanks Boiler.  In the scenario above, I was testing modules only, not macros.  I have now fully come to understand by some posts here why I should assure none of my macros are on the same code as the module itself. 

Although I do have 1 of those (of the 3 or 4 total macros I have) that actually works well.

My problem with all of it is still that I will have to put a TM751 up for every housecode I want to have out there... for example 1 on M for my cameras, 1 on P for my macros, and 1 on D for my module controls because the CM15a is SO unreliable as a transceiver.  That boils down the root of MANY of our problems, don't you agree?
I am going to work on an additional range-extension for my unit and hope to finally solve the problem.
Maybe X10 would market a kit (and of course bombard us with flashy emails about it) to fix this, LOL
"New Range Extender - Home on The Range from X10 - Control your destiny and realize World Peace and Domination"  49.99 with a free tripod!!!!!"

[Boiler]

Glad to here that the fog is clearing for you.  X10 has a lot of capabilities but it can be very trying while learning all of the little pitfalls.

My problem with all of it is still that I will have to put a TM751 up for every housecode I want to have out there... for example 1 on M for my cameras, 1 on P for my macros, and 1 on D for my module controls because the CM15a is SO unreliable as a transceiver.  That boils down the root of MANY of our problems, don't you agree?
I am going to work on an additional range-extension for my unit and hope to finally solve the problem.

Many people do have problems with the CM15a range (as I'm sure you've seen from the posts on this forum).  I have actually had rather good luck with mine, but then I'm running very little RF (5 motion sensors and occasional RF remote use). 

I am surprised that your RF repeater doesn't get the job done.  Do you have an older home, possibly with metal lath and plaster walls?

I now have 3 CM15a's ('04, '06, and '07 models) and they all appear to receive RF equally well.