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[Boiler]

Not sure but i think i found the problem.
I found another module not working, i can light it up but not off and no diming either so i
turned on the oven and the module works. i have my answer, i need a phase coupler!
The only thing i wonder is it only started  after a month?

You may have part of the solution.  Normally, if you can turn a device on but not off - the load connected to the device is generating noise.  When you turn it on, your X10 module can no longer "hear" the commands that you are sending because of the increased noise level.

In your case, this module sounds like it's on the opposite phase from your CM15a.  Turning on the oven increased the signal available at the modules location (as you've already recognized) but it doesn't change the fact that the load is generating noise.  What are you switching with this module?

Adding a phase coupler is never a bad idea.  I'm just pointing out that you may want to investigate this possible noise source before it comes back and bites you again.

[Brian H]

Something changed. Like a new electronic device is added to the home even one you may not have thought of. Like a new cell phone charger etc.
Another thing could be a installed device that was no problem has aged and changed enough to be a problem.

[yvabi]

Not sure but i think i found the problem.
I found another module not working, i can light it up but not off and no diming either so i
turned on the oven and the module works. i have my answer, i need a phase coupler!
The only thing i wonder is it only started  after a month?

You may have part of the solution.  Normally, if you can turn a device on but not off - the load connected to the device is generating noise.  When you turn it on, your X10 module can no longer "hear" the commands that you are sending because of the increased noise level.

In your case, this module sounds like it's on the opposite phase from your CM15a.  Turning on the oven increased the signal available at the modules location (as you've already recognized) but it doesn't change the fact that the load is generating noise.  What are you switching with this module?

Adding a phase coupler is never a bad idea.  I'm just pointing out that you may want to investigate this possible noise source before it comes back and bites you again.

I have 2 WS467 switching incadescent lamps and 1 AM466 switching an air conditioner(this one does not turn on or off)

[Boiler]

I have 2 WS467 switching incadescent lamps and 1 AM466 switching an air conditioner(this one does not turn on or off)

OK, if I understand things correctly -

• You can turn your WS467 incandescent lamps on but not off
• Your AM466 connected to an air conditioner will not respond at all (on or off)

If this is true, I'd say that my suggestions resulted were a strike out on my part (sorry).

Refer to Brian's post -

Something changed. Like a new electronic device is added to the home even one you may not have thought of. Like a new cell phone charger etc.
Another thing could be a installed device that was no problem has aged and changed enough to be a problem.

Look for any new devices that may have been installed.  If you have a family, these may not have been installed by you (walkman, cell phone charger etc).  I have found that I need a significant amount of "signal margin" to accommodate portable devices (boom boxes, etc).  I have X10 amplifiers on some of my heavily loaded lines, but the portable load can still cause problems.

If you can't identify anything new in your system, something may have aged (yes appliances do age) or there may be a new source of outside interference. 

In either case, unless you have an X10 signal tester that can monitor noise and signal levels, your idea of a phase coupler would appear to be good.

[yvabi]

I have 2 WS467 switching incadescent lamps and 1 AM466 switching an air conditioner(this one does not turn on or off)

OK, if I understand things correctly -

• You can turn your WS467 incandescent lamps on but not off
• Your AM466 connected to an air conditioner will not respond at all (on or off)

If this is true, I'd say that my suggestions resulted were a strike out on my part (sorry).

Refer to Brian's post -

Something changed. Like a new electronic device is added to the home even one you may not have thought of. Like a new cell phone charger etc.
Another thing could be a installed device that was no problem has aged and changed enough to be a problem.

Look for any new devices that may have been installed.  If you have a family, these may not have been installed by you (walkman, cell phone charger etc).  I have found that I need a significant amount of "signal margin" to accommodate portable devices (boom boxes, etc).  I have X10 amplifiers on some of my heavily loaded lines, but the portable load can still cause problems.

If you can't identify anything new in your system, something may have aged (yes appliances do age) or there may be a new source of outside interference. 

In either case, unless you have an X10 signal tester that can monitor noise and signal levels, your idea of a phase coupler would appear to be good.

Not sure about the phase coupler, now even with the oven on, i still have some problems with the same modules even with another wall switch (in the same room).
I know nothing new was installed, as for age of the appliances, what do i need? A signal booster/amplifier-coupler or a signal filter?

Would it be possible i have problems because i have aluminium wiring?

Could i see something with my scope?

[Boiler]

Not sure about the phase coupler, now even with the oven on, i still have some problems with the same modules even with another wall switch (in the same room).
I know nothing new was installed, as for age of the appliances, what do i need? A signal booster/amplifier-coupler or a signal filter?

Would it be possible i have problems because i have aluminium wiring?

Could i see something with my scope?

yvabi,

Wow - I haven't dealt with aluminum for many years.

I have no idea whether you have experience in dealing with aluminum wiring - you mentioned using a scope so I dearly hope that you do.

Aluminum wire itself isn't a problem.  The connections are.

If you are not familiar with aluminum wire terminations, and used standard twist on connectors for your WS467, please pull the breaker for that circuit now.


This a potentially hazardous situation.  I'm trying to post this quickly.  Get back with me.

[yvabi]

I don't see nothing with my dinosaure 10 Mhz scope. For the aluminium wiring, i have only 2 wall switch modules with aluminium (the joints have penetrox)
Some parts of the house is with aluminium wiring and some other with copper.
Solved half the problem, i switched the lines on the circuit i had problem with ( i know it's a patch but it works for now while i get a phase coupler or amplifier )

One thing i'm wondering, are the modules affected by humidity, i have one in the attic and we had a lot of rain these past few days.

[Boiler]

I don't see nothing with my dinosaure 10 Mhz scope. For the aluminium wiring, i have only 2 wall switch modules with aluminium (the joints have penetrox)
Some parts of the house is with aluminium wiring and some other with copper.
Solved half the problem, i switched the lines on the circuit i had problem with ( i know it's a patch but it works for now while i get a phase coupler or amplifier )

One thing i'm wondering, are the modules affected by humidity, i have one in the attic and we had a lot of rain these past few days.

If a 10 MHz scope is a dinosaur, that would make my Tek 310a (tubes - circa 1958) a single cell organism??

Per your previous post - the aluminum wiring itself should not pose a problem for X10 signals.  This assumes you have good junctions on all of your branch circuits and you obviously understand the problems associated with these.  Assuming that you aren't seeing voltage drops across the junctions (line loading, lights dimming, appliances or motors slowing down) we'll discount the aluminum.

Since you can't see any line noise with your oscilloscope (not the easiest thing to look for) you may have a case of signal absorption.  Try isolating this by shutting down circuits (popping the breakers) until your system becomes reliable.  Then investigate that circuit for loads (power supplies, chargers, etc).  You can then isolate these devices with filters.

As far as humidity affecting X10 switches - I have a number in my garage and basements and haven't had a problem.  I believe OldTimer has an installation in his attic.