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[idbl_fanatic]

Looking at this: http://www.x10pro.com/pro/pdf/xpcr.pdf can you just connect this to 2 existing breakers? or do I have to add 2 new breakers?

I have a manufactured home, and I have determined that 1 half of the house will not work, but the other half will, so I am assuming that this will resolve this. unfortunately, I don't have ANY 220 (dryer, or stove) in this house.

[Puck]

I have a manufactured home, and I have determined that 1 half of the house will not work, but the other half will, so I am assuming that this will resolve this. unfortunately, I don't have ANY 220 (dryer, or stove) in this house.

Have a look at this thread by medvampire; he has a Manufactured home and I recall he had some issues with Arc Fault Breakers to work around; there may be some info here that will help you: Phase Coupler

[idbl_fanatic]

Thanks, I actually read through that post last night, but he ended up using a plug in coupler.

[Tuicemen]

idbl_fanatic looking at the pic in your supplied PDF file shows the coupler atached to existing Breakers!
The Phase coupler I installed stated in the instructions that it needed to be connected to new independent breakers (nothing else on them).
Your best to contact technical support: 800-832-4003 

[Walt2]

Looking at this: http://www.x10pro.com/pro/pdf/xpcr.pdf can you just connect this to 2 existing breakers? or do I have to add 2 new breakers?

Technically you could re-use existing breakers, but in most towns, doing such is a violation of their building/electrical codes.    While you might not think that's a big deal, if there is ever a problem, having violated the codes, would void your insurance.

[dave w]

FWIW
Originally these Leviton/X10 repeaters had permanently attached, stranded wires and you could not add stranded wires to a breaker which already has solid copper wire connection, hence the separate breaker.  The strands tend to compress over time leaving a loose connection on the solid conductor.

On this new design, it  appears the user must supply the jumper wires from repeater to breaker. In my local code, multiple circuits can be combined on a breaker as long as the conductors are identical size and compposition (no aluminum/copper combinations).

If local code allows multiple circuits on a breaker the thing to remember is for safety you should tie the repeater to smaller breakers ( i.e 15 or 20 amp, don't connect the repeater to your 60 amp breakers feeding your electric furnace).

[idbl_fanatic]

ok, next question.......................should I get a repeater one, or a passive one? 1875 Sq foot manufactured home

[KDR]

I started off using a repeater and had nothing but problems. I had multiple signals causing lights to dim more then I wanted, some lights not going on at all and what seemed to be a flood or firestorm of signals that got stuck in a continues loop. I got a passive coupler and that solved all my phase issues. My house is about 1700 to 1800 sq. ft. So I'm guessing that the repeater coupler was over kill in my minor coupling problem. I would recommend trying the passive first. If that doesn't do the trick you can then go to a repeater type and you won't be out a lot of bucks.

^{----------------KDR}

[HA Dave]

I would recommend trying the passive first. If that doesn't do the trick you can then go to a repeater type and you won't be out a lot of bucks.

Or ... at least try the old dryer on, oven and burners on...IF you have those items in electric.

[G. L.Tirebiter]

I started off using a repeater and had nothing but problems. I had multiple signals causing lights to dim more then I wanted, some lights not going on at all and what seemed to be a flood or firestorm of signals that got stuck in a continues loop. I got a passive coupler and that solved all my phase issues. My house is about 1700 to 1800 sq. ft. So I'm guessing that the repeater coupler was over kill in my minor coupling problem. I would recommend trying the passive first. If that doesn't do the trick you can then go to a repeater type and you won't be out a lot of bucks.

^{----------------KDR}

Ditto on the repeater - same problems - went back to passive - they went away... Boosterlinc that was built into my Keypadlinc caused the same problems - so I turned it off. Probably noise - but why pay extra money to CREATE a problem....

GL ..I mean ...George

[idbl_fanatic]

Cool, AND cheaper is ALWAYS better too 

another funny thing..............I have a porch light on each side of our front door.................one works, the other don't 

[dave w]

OK my $0.02.

I am a believer in amplifier/coupler such as the ACT CR 234. I have had Leviton/X10 repeaters and had DIM / BRI  problems. I have owned or tested three ACT units and they all handled DIM / BRI correctly.

More signal is always better, especially if you have signal suckers and noise generators (and you do whether you know it or not).  If my current ACT units fails, rather than fixing I will use the excuse to by Jeff V's,  XTB II. I have seen nothiung but good reviews and praise for this unit.

[idbl_fanatic]

OK my $0.02.

I am a believer in amplifier/coupler such as the ACT CR 234. I have had Leviton/X10 repeaters and had DIM / BRI  problems. I have owned or tested three ACT units and they all handled DIM / BRI correctly.

More signal is always better, especially if you have signal suckers and noise generators (and you do whether you know it or not).  If my current ACT units fails, rather than fixing I will use the excuse to by Jeff V's,  XTB II. I have seen nothiung but good reviews and praise for this unit.

Ok, I read through his site, but I am still a little confused here, if I were to get a XTB....................would that solve my problem or would I need to still get a coupler?

[G. L.Tirebiter]

OK my $0.02.

I am a believer in amplifier/coupler such as the ACT CR 234. I have had Leviton/X10 repeaters and had DIM / BRI  problems. I have owned or tested three ACT units and they all handled DIM / BRI correctly.

More signal is always better, especially if you have signal suckers and noise generators (and you do whether you know it or not).  If my current ACT units fails, rather than fixing I will use the excuse to by Jeff V's,  XTB II. I have seen nothiung but good reviews and praise for this unit.

Yes - I should have mentioned my problem was with a Leviton repeater (HCA02-10E)  - the ACT has a MUCH better reputation (but is more expensive).

idbl:

1st -To save money I would try a passive coupler first: This is the one I use (I think) http://www.smarthome.com/4816h.html

Of course, there are plug in ones - don't forget you can save a lot of money on X10 stuff on eBay.

2nd - if that doesn't work, I agree with Dave and would try the XTB. Probably able to return if it doesn't solve your problem. Check w/ Jeff. (On the original and still cheaper version of the XTB, it would help to already have a coupler. Quoting Jeff's page:   The plug-in XTB is certainly the easiest to use, but it should be paired with a good passive signal coupler for most installations)

3rd. If the above fails, get the ACT and ONLY the ACT.

But if 1 and 2 don't work - I think you have other problems - ie NOISE.

George

[idbl_fanatic]

Well I just bought an XPCP and will see if that fixes it, I am guessing it will................distance don't seem to be an issue, just that stange one plug here, one plug there will work, like the light on one side of my front door will work, but the light on the other side won't.