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[caudill22]

Newbie here looking to automate home and any expert advice/comment is very much appreciated. I have purchased quite a number of items to install over my Christmas break and I hope I am not in over my head! I am installing 8 KeypadLincs and 27 Switchlinc wall switches (a mixture of dimming and non-dimming), I purchased a maxi controller to program the wall switches. I also purchased AHP (CM15A) to hopefully use as a whole house transceiver, but after doing some reading on here that may be a mistake due to it's limited range to receive RF signals. Customer service said that the CM15A has a range of 100' and should be sufficient, I am skeptical. I have read that a V572RF32 may be a better choice as my home is about 4400 square feet. I am also hearing that AHP may not play well with Switchlinc, I hope this is not the case. Not that I am initially going to do much with macros, it would be something I would like to experiment with once I have my system stable. I also purchased a signal coupler/repeater/amplifier (XPCR) to make sure my signal crosses phases. Lastly, I purchased quite a few signal filters (XPPF) for TVs, computers, UPS, etc. to hopefully keep the lines clean. Lastly, I got 20 socket rockets, some lamp/appliance modules, and some various remotes.

Does anyone see any obvious problems that a newbie would be missing? I am completely open to suggestions as this is my first endeavour into home automation. I wanted to use my Christmas break to get as much installed and operating so that I can continue to grow and play with the system. Any suggestions about a whole house transceiver would be much appreciated as I suspect the CM15A will not cover my whole house. Please post ANY comments as this really is my first shot at this.

[Boiler]

caudill22,

Welcome to the forum.  You've obviously done some homework already.  That's a good thing since you definitely have a large install.

You mentioned the Keypadlinc and Switchlinc modules.  Are these the older X10 2-way units (out of production) or the newer Insteon/X10 units?

I have both versions and they can play with the CM15a.  The Smarthome units use an old X10 "preset dim" command that ActiveHomePro does not support.  The units will respond properly to standard Dim commands.

In either case your first problem may be signal level.  The 2-way (transmit/receive) devices absorb X10 to a much greater degree than receiver only units.  This may be a problem on circuit branches where you have a large grouping of 2-way units.  As an example, my family room has 8 Insteon 2-way devices installed.  I had to add a "boosterlinc" to that branch to provide a reliable X10 signal level.

At this point it's imperative that you map and plan your system.  Generate a diagram of your electrical system and indicate which phase each room/branch circuit is on.  Also indicate where potential problem devices are (TV's, Computers, CFL's).  This is rather painful initially but it pays huge dividends down the road.

I'd recommend installing your XPCR first (you will need it) and mounting the CM15a as close to your panel as physically possible (preferably on a dedicated circuit).

Install your X10 devices on one branch circuit at a time.  Test the functionality with the CM15a after adding each device.  If things stop working after an addition, either your 2-way load is too large or you have a signal absorber on the branch.  Either way, you can isolate things to a given branch circuit.

Since you also have a number of plug in devices (are these Smarthome 2-ways as well?) you can "stress test" a branch by adding them to the circuit as additional loads.  If your system still operates with 3 or 4 additional loads installed you have some margin on your signal level.

You're probably correct that the CM15a will not be able to provide RF coverage for your entire house.  The RF performance will vary greatly depending on your home construction (no metal lath plaster I hope).  I have a similar size home and am making do with a RF repeater on the second floor (CM15a is next to the electrical panel in the basement).  My motion sensors (hallways and outdoor) communicate directly with the CM15a so that I can keep that activity off the powerline.

I don't have experience with the V572.  Other forum members do have experience and should be able to provide guidance.  At this point, I think you'll have your hands full without it.

Give us some more detail and we'll try to make this as painless as possible.

Boiler

Edit - Almost forgot, most of the Smarthome switches require a neutral connection.  This can be a problem if power enters at your light fixture and only a switch loop is run to the box (2 wires only).

[Tuicemen]

caudill22 Welcome aboard!
The key to a reliable system is as Boiler pointed out install everything in steps!

- Baby Steps! -

The bigest mistake a newbie does is install everything all at once if you do that and have a problem finding the cause can be a real pain!

[caudill22]

Wow, that is a lot of great advice. I really like the idea of installing one circuit at a time and testing after each individual install. The Keypadlinc switches are a mixture if 12074, 12073, and 2486D units, I bought a few 12074/12073 units off eBay and the 2486D units from Smarthome. The Switchlinc units are new from Smarthome, however I believe they are the older units (2384i2). I purchased them for $20 each from Smarthome, I believe they are on clearance and I am pretty certain they are one-way units. I sort of made a mistake with these units, I thought they had scene capabilities but I am now thinking they do not. When I ordered them the sales representative said that they do have scene functions, however after doing my homework it appears not to be true. At $20 each, they are a bargain even if they do not control scenes. Do you have any suggestions how to get around that? I really only have two rooms I really need scene capabilities with Switchlincs, all the other rooms I plan to use scenes I am using the Keypadlincs. Worse case is that I will get a couple more Keypadlincs, but it would be nice to have a work-around for the Switchlinc units.

I can see how the signal may get weak, are you using the Boosterlinc 4827? I have seen boosters that I can wire at the breaker panel to amplify a circuit, have you used them?

I will probably wait until I am done with this step of things before embarking on the V572 install. I have read that it has the ability to pick up a signal from 200' which would eliminate the need for additional transceivers (RR501). Is it possible to just use 2 or 3 CM15A as the transceiver units to avoid worrying about house codes? I know I am going to use several housecodes and do not want to use the RR501 for this reason. I would have to have a dozen different RR501 because they can only be assigned one house code.

Thank you so much for all the insight. Your idea of installing one circuit at a time for troubleshooting purposes is priceless.

James

[Brian H]

The 2486D modules are the Insteon KeypadLincs. I believe the others are all older X10 only.
If you have not gotten the Full Users Manuals for the Insteon Module [I don't know the extent of manuals in the older packages] download it as it is a very BIG help in setting things up. It can be found in a link on the products page of their web site and maybe printed in the Quick Guide in the box.

[caudill22]

Does anyone have a work-around suggeation for the Switchlink wall unit. I would somehow like to create a scene, however the switch itself does not offer the option. Does anyone have a creative way to still get the same effect?

[Boiler]

James,

Hope your ready for a data dump =

Wow, that is a lot of great advice. I really like the idea of installing one circuit at a time and testing after each individual install. The Keypadlinc switches are a mixture if 12074, 12073, and 2486D units, I bought a few 12074/12073 units off eBay and the 2486D units from Smarthome. The Switchlinc units are new from Smarthome, however I believe they are the older units (2384i2). I purchased them for $20 each from Smarthome, I believe they are on clearance and I am pretty certain they are one-way units. I sort of made a mistake with these units, I thought they had scene capabilities but I am now thinking they do not. When I ordered them the sales representative said that they do have scene functions, however after doing my homework it appears not to be true. At $20 each, they are a bargain even if they do not control scenes. Do you have any suggestions how to get around that? I really only have two rooms I really need scene capabilities with Switchlincs, all the other rooms I plan to use scenes I am using the Keypadlincs. Worse case is that I will get a couple more Keypadlincs, but it would be nice to have a work-around for the Switchlinc units.

• 12074/12073 Keypadlincs: X10 2-way units with scene capability and "boosterlinc".  Units require a neutral connection.  The boost feature can be disabled - I would advise this for your initial install.  Keep things as simple as possible and evaluate changes one at a time.
• 2486B Keypadlinc: Insteon/X10 2-way with scene capability.  Units require a neutral connection.  Again, being a 2-way this device will absorb X10.  Depending on the firmware, the secondardy (non load buttons) may not respond correctly to X10 all on/all off commands.  V1.5 firmware may address this problem (my units are V1.4).
• 2384I2 Rx Switchlincs: receive only X10 unit without scene capability.  Units do not require a neutral connection.

I don't have a workaround for the switchlinc lack of scene capability.  As you indicated, you could use a Keypadlinc to trigger a CM15a macro to turn on a scene.  Short of that, If you feel these were misrepresented by Smarthome, exchange the units.  Beware that most of the Smarthome product line requires a neutral connection.

I can see how the signal may get weak, are you using the Boosterlinc 4827? I have seen boosters that I can wire at the breaker panel to amplify a circuit, have you used them?

The XPCR coupler/repeater should do a decent job.  I have a Leviton HCA02 coupler/repeater at the panel.  It's a decent amplifier but has "issues" with dim commands.  Since your Switchlinc units are receive only, you will not have as much line loading as I had originally feared.  You also have the ability to "enable" the boost function on your 12074/12073 units if required.

I will probably wait until I am done with this step of things before embarking on the V572 install. I have read that it has the ability to pick up a signal from 200' which would eliminate the need for additional transceivers (RR501). Is it possible to just use 2 or 3 CM15A as the transceiver units to avoid worrying about house codes? I know I am going to use several housecodes and do not want to use the RR501 for this reason. I would have to have a dozen different RR501 because they can only be assigned one house code.

That's exactly why I elected to go with a RF repeater and the CM15a by itself.  It keeps the powerline clear of motion sensor and RF remote activity and I can Instruct the CM15a which signals to use (macros).  There are a number of threads on the forum dealing with modifications to the CM15a to increase RF range.  To date, I haven't required these.

As the Tuicemen indicated, proceed in small manageable steps.  Make diagrams and take notes.  If you hit a problem, c'mon back and post it.  There's a lot of experience (school of hard knocks) running around on this forum.

Most of all, make it fun.  This stuff really can be addictive.

Boiler

Wow - apparently I'm a very slow typer.  Two post's while I was composing this.

[caudill22]

Just a quick update to my project.... things are going pretty well, I am still waiting for my phase coupler/amplifier to arrive which has slowed some of the programming progress down. I have about 50% of the switches installed and most work, however without the phase couper/amplifier I have a few that only work when I turn a 220 appliance on manually creating the couple of the two phases. I also ran into a computer that was causing some line noise, I ordered 8 filters that should arrive in a few days that will hopefully eliminate that issue. I went ahead and ordered extra filters to avoid similar problems in the future.

I really like the KeypadLinc wall switches and cannot say enough about how well they appear to work. The KeypadLinc is easy to program and offers a lot of control at one location. As long as you have a maxi controller, the programming is extremely fast and easy. You can program all 8 keys in less than 5 minutes. They only recommendation I would make is to be sure you use 2-way switches/modules with it to fully utilize all of the features. So far everything has been a lot of fun.

[poursha]

Regarding the "range" of the CM15A.  It just plain ole SUX...

I did the Antenna modification early on when I bought my CM15A (about 2 years ago).  I would have dumped the CM15A a long time ago if not for the antenna mod.  My house is about 3700 ft2, and I have not found any dead spots in my house.  I use all remotes from the key-remotes to the palm-remotes. 

I also centrally located the CM15A for best range throughout the house.

Seriously though, I wouldn't even think about using the CM15A for RF without the antenna mod.

Search for it in the forums.  Here it is on another site...  http://www.cocoontech.com/index.php?showtopic=126

PS>  I have 5 keypadlincs running my house, with a mix of X10 wall switches, and some togglelinc switches.  It all works awesome.  Sometimes the Keypadlincs get mixed up in their 2-way communications (thinking something is off when it is really on), but otherwise it works like a champ.  Curious to hear how yours works out.

Rob

[caudill22]

Poursha-

I have plans to do the CM15A mod on my to do list, just haven't found the time yet It hasn't been a pressing issue because the only RF remotes I am using are in my bedroom which is located on the same side of my house as the CM15A. However, my family room is located located on the other side of the house and I have tested my RF remote from that room and it only responds about 50% of the time, so I am going to do the mod to get the extra range.

I am up to 8 KeypadLincs and about 30 SwitchLincs with minimal problems. I am still going to install another 4 KeypadLincs when I get the time and money. After installing filters on most of my electronic equipment (all computers, t.v.s, and stereos) I would guess that everything responds properly 99% of the time. I have a macro (CM15A) that controls my outside lighting at dusk/dawn that on occasion does not properly turn off one of the lights at the garage. It rarely occurs, but I have seen it not turn off a few times, really not a big deal anyway. I also have a cabinet light in my living room that sometimes will not respond to a KeypadLinc in the foyer, but will always respond to a macro scene from my CM15A, go figure? That's the only two things I have noticed not to work 100% of the time.

Have you run into any big issues yourself?