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[lbv001]

I'm trying to control an electric heater with an appliance module. I can reliable turn on the heater but can not turn it off. I assume it’s because of the noise being feed back on the circuit when the heater is running. If I replace the heater with a light it works fine so I know I have control of the circuit when the heater is not plugged in. Has anybody ran into this issue and solved it???

[steven r]

If it is noise from the heater keeping it from being turned off, then a filter of the right size put between the heater and the appliance module should solve your problem.

[lbv001]

Thanks for the help! Would just a run of the mill radio shack filter work or do need some high quality one???

[steven r]

First step is to determine what the amperage of your heater is. If it is less than 10 amps, I recommend the 10 amp filter that Smarthome sells. EBay is another good source for X10 filters. If you post the rating of your heater, others may be able to make other recommendations also.

Is there any possibility that his heater is triggering the local control of his appliance module?

[JeffVolp]

The heaters I am familiar with are just resistive elements with a thermostat.  That won't generate electrical noise.  However, the thermostat can actuate the local control, and cause the module to switch on again.  I had this issue with the warming tray on a coffee pot years ago, and had to issue multiple off commands to turn it off again if the thermostat cycled.

If the heater has a fan, it could be back EMF that is preventing the module from turning off.  There have been reports of similar problems from window fans.  If your heater does include a fan, try connecting a 40 or 60 watt incandescent light in parallel with the heater to absorb the back EMF.

Jeff

[lbv001]

OK I did a liitle more debug on this. First, it is a space heater that has a fan. Now it seems to work fine when just the fan is running with no heating element turned on. So I don't think it's the fan creating noise on the AC line. It also works fine when the heating element is on low which is about 500 watts.  I can turn it on and off with not problems. Now when I turn it up to high about 1200 watts I can only turn it on but not off no matter how many times I try. The appliance module is rated for 1500 watts so I would think it would have been fine. I'm wondering if the contacts are sticking from thc high current draw.

any Ideas???

[Brian H]

Does it chatter when you try and turn it off? If the contacts where sticking the module tries a few times to turn it off. resulting in a chatter.

[JeffVolp]

Now when I turn it up to high about 1200 watts I can only turn it on but not off no matter how many times I try.

Weak signal strength.  Since the fan works OK by itself, then back EMF is not an issue.  When set to 500 watts, the heating element looks like about 30 ohms.  When cranked up to 1200 watts, the load drops down to 12 ohms.  If the heating element has relatively low inductance, that would be a significant load on the X10 signal.

Either increasing the signal level or installing a high-current filter should solve the problem.  The filter must be rated at least 10A to carry that load.  The AF120 is rated 15A, and costs about $30.

Jeff

[lbv001]

Thanks for all the help on this! I will order the AF120 and give it a try.

[steven r]

Thanks for all the help on this! I will order the AF120 and give it a try.

Don't forget to put the filter between the X10 module and the heater. 
Let us know if that solves your problem.

FYI... JeffVolp is one of our foremost experts here dealing with X10 noise and signal strength. He also sells a few products that he has designed to boast signal strength.

[Dan Lawrence]

Thanks for all the help on this! I will order the AF120 and give it a try.

Try Automated Outlet at this link http://www.automatedoutlet.com/_search.php?page=1&q=AF120+

They sell it for less than Smaerthome and their shipping is $7.95 regardless of order size.

[JeffVolp]

Don't forget to put the filter between the X10 module and the heater. 

Also, because the AF120 won't plug directly into an appliance module, you must use an extension cord rated for the heater current to connect them together.  I recall seeing a short (1-2 ft) heavy-duty cord that ended in a triple tap - Lowes?

(Thank you for the compliment.)

Jeff

[steven r]

...because the AF120 won't plug directly into an appliance module, you must use an extension cord rated for the heater current to connect them together....

Jeff: Do think a Black & Decker inline cord switch would work? It might be a bit neater than an appliance module and a cord.

I says it's an "outdoor lamp receiver" but mine is labeled as rated for a resistive load of 15A, a motor load of 1/3 HP and incandescent lamp of 500W. Also in spite of being labeled as a "lamp receiver", it act like an appliance module. i.e. It doesn't dim or respond to an "All Lights On" command. Also it doesn't seem to respond to "local control".

I would be inclined to try it anyway. My only reservation to recommending it is that it is labeled for "Use only with lights. No Appliances". I personally think this is just an overcautious legal statement. I've used mine for a small water pump.

[Brian H]

Yes the B&D Outdoor module reads like a Appliance Module specifications. Clunks just lie one also.

[JeffVolp]

Do think a Black & Decker inline cord switch would work? It might be a bit neater than an appliance module and a cord.

With its 15A resistive load rating, that ought to work just fine.  Then the filter could plug into that, and the heater into the filter.

Jeff