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[birdzeye]

I have a Belkin 6-outlet power bar plugged into a 3-pin appliance module. The appliance module turns the power bar on and off just fine until I plug an LCD computer monitor into the power bar; then the appliance module will only turn on the power bar but not off. So I unplugged the LCD monitor and plugged it into its own 3-pin appliance module. Now, the power bar will go on and off AND the LCD monitor will go on and off, HOWEVER the LCD monitor will turn on by itself a few seconds after I turn it off!

HELP!

[Brian H]

Sounds like the LCD monitor is generating noise or absorbing the X10 signals. In the standalone setup try adding a small incandescent light to the output as a test. If it then works OK the Local Control sensing circuit in the appliance module is triggering.
If you have an X10 type filter you may want to try that on the monitor.
Let us know the results and we maybe able to narrow the fixes that may work.

[birdzeye]

Brian H,
I tried adding an incandescent light to the standalone setup and it works OK. It doesn't turn on after I turn it off. So what do I need to do to get the LCD monitor to work properly?

[Brian H]

Looks like it maybe the Local Control Sensing circuit seeing some noise from the monitor.

You could use the small bulb as part of the setup. Most likely not what you wanted to do. I believe Boiler or Old Timer have used a resistor on theirs; output side.

If you had one trying a filter between the monitor and the module may help. If you had one to try.

There are other brand appliance modules where the local sensing can be turned off. Smarthome's Insteon one can be set to an X10 address and local control off. They are more costly than the X10 ones.

Modify an X10 one to stop the circuit from working. If the module is a recent one with the new PCB layout and a surface mounted IC. I am not sure anyone has a mod published to do that.

[birdzeye]

Looks like it maybe the Local Control Sensing circuit seeing some noise from the monitor.

You could use the small bulb as part of the setup.

How do I do that?

[Brian H]

Use a small 7 watt night light connected to the appliance modules output along with the monitor. Maybe using a power tap where more than one device can be connected to the modules outlet.

[birdzeye]

Use a small 7 watt night light connected to the appliance modules output along with the monitor. Maybe using a power tap where more than one device can be connected to the modules outlet.

This doesn't work. In your first post, I thought you meant to ONLY use a light in the output to test the appliance module. The light alone works, but not with the LCD monitor. I have tried just about every combination of plugs and adapters, with and without a light, and still the LCD monitor keeps turning ON...ON....ON...

Is there any straightforward easy way to use this thing?

[Brian H]

I will look around and see if I can think of more things to try. I hope maybe another party may have added data for you.

In your first post you indicated in the surge strip it stopped the setup from turning off and alone it keeps restarting. Maybe it is noise. Don't suppose you have a noise filter to try.

I have another thought that I will test tonight or tomorrow.

[Knightrider]

Here's a surefire way to fix this:
Have the appliance module power a 120 volt relay which in turns activates the monitor.  I have been using such a modification to control my high power strobe lights on my DJ rig since 1999 with no troubles.  The relays came from Radio Shack and are enclosed in a deep metal handy box with an outlet on it.  I believe I have seen this modification in the forums before by Boiler, Oldtimer, TTA or one of the other "Greats"
Cheers

[Brian H]

Knightrider. Thank you for the information. I was not 100% sure an AC relay would tolerate the Appliance Modules Local Sensing Circuit. Now I don't have to do the test.
I know others that use the Smarthome ApplianceLincs have done AC relays with troublesome devices.
Thank you and a helpful to you for this and all the valuable information you have given members here.

[birdzeye]

Here's a surefire way to fix this:
Have the appliance module power a 120 volt relay which in turns activates the monitor.  I have been using such a modification to control my high power strobe lights on my DJ rig since 1999 with no troubles.  The relays came from Radio Shack and are enclosed in a deep metal handy box with an outlet on it.  I believe I have seen this modification in the forums before by Boiler, Oldtimer, TTA or one of the other "Greats"
Cheers

Thanks for the advice, Knightrider, I'll give it a try if it's within my budget!

Thanks to BrianH too!

[birdzeye]

Here's a surefire way to fix this:
Have the appliance module power a 120 volt relay which in turns activates the monitor.  I have been using such a modification to control my high power strobe lights on my DJ rig since 1999 with no troubles.  The relays came from Radio Shack and are enclosed in a deep metal handy box with an outlet on it.  I believe I have seen this modification in the forums before by Boiler, Oldtimer, TTA or one of the other "Greats"
Cheers

I went to RadioShack, and they have no idea what a 120v relay is
If you could provide any further info I'd appreciate it...including how I would connect this relay thing, assuming I can find one!

P.S. If the LCD monitor is plugged into the appliance module, and I turn off the appliance module, how could the LCD monitor be sending noise to the appliance module if it doesn't even have any power going to it? I really don't understand how a 120v relay would resolve this.

[Knightrider]

OK, tell the guys at Rat Shack that you want part number 275-217 (I have one in the package right in front of me -- in case they try to tell you that this doesn't exist)  You will notice that it has about 8 pins on the bottom of it.  Pins 7 and 8 are for the activation coil.  Pins 5 and 6 are the switched input,  1 and 2 are the normally closed contacts and 4 and 5 are the normally open contacts.

Step 1.  Solder jumper wires from Pin 7 to Pin 5 and from Pin 8 to Pin 6.

        2.  Solder leads from Pin 7 and Pin 8 to  plug which will go into the Appliance module.

        3.  Solder leads from Pin 3 and Pin 4 to the outlet which you will plug the monitor into.

If you still have questions, please post them here and we'll all be glad to chime in.

[Brian H]

The Local Sensing Circuit sends a small amount of current through the load even when off. Some devices power supplies can actually try and power up. This is known to sometimes be enough to trigger the applance module back on. Also most computers and monitors; even when off are still running in a standby mode. As the electronic soft on off buttons need some power to activate.

Basically the relay is wired so when off. The load is isolated from the module. So the local sensing can't see it and when on the load is again connected to the module.

[birdzeye]

The Local Sensing Circuit sends a small amount of current through the load even when off. Some devices power supplies can actually try and power up. This is known to sometimes be enough to trigger the applance module back on. Also most computers and monitors; even when off are still running in a standby mode. As the electronic soft on off buttons need some power to activate.

Basically the relay is wired so when off. The load is isolated from the module. So the local sensing can't see it and when on the load is again connected to the module.

OK thanks, I think I understand now, sort of.

OK, tell the guys at Rat Shack that you want part number 275-217 (I have one in the package right in front of me -- in case they try to tell you that this doesn't exist)  You will notice that it has about 8 pins on the bottom of it.  Pins 7 and 8 are for the activation coil.  Pins 5 and 6 are the switched input,  1 and 2 are the normally closed contacts and 4 and 5 are the normally open contacts.

Step 1.  Solder jumper wires from Pin 7 to Pin 5 and from Pin 8 to Pin 6.

        2.  Solder leads from Pin 7 and Pin 8 to  plug which will go into the Appliance module.

        3.  Solder leads from Pin 3 and Pin 4 to the outlet which you will plug the monitor into.

If you still have questions, please post them here and we'll all be glad to chime in.

WHOA!  OK thanks, but I was kind of hoping for something a little less complex, like maybe something I could just plug in? I CAN'T SOLDER!  I wouldn't even know where to begin!