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[VTX Kruzer]

I have some different modules from radio shack ( I was told they are actually x 10s,) in the house. Depending on the outlet they work or don't. I was told it was the wiring in my main panel for the house. It essentially divides the house to where if the controller is on one side and the module is on the other, it  won't connect. Is this true? If so, is there a work around for this or does X 10 sell wireless modules, a RF type instead of using the house wiring??

    Thanks

[VTX Kruzer]

i should have looked at the links before posting this....whoops

[Brian H]

Welcome to the forums.
Yes Radio Shack and some other brand modules where OEM from X10 and should work fine.

Glad you found the links to common X10 problems. Feel free to ask questions as there are many helpful users here.

[VTX Kruzer]

Welcome to the forums.
Yes Radio Shack and some other brand modules where OEM from X10 and should work fine.

Glad you found the links to common X10 problems. Feel free to ask questions as there are many helpful users here.

Thanks,,
  I do have one or two questions about the link on phase coupling. It says to take two dedicated 15 amp breakers and use the coupler with them. I don't have a 220v plug and have to go with this two breaker deal. By dedicated does this mean that the sole purpose of the breakers is to be connected to the coupler and no other device? I looked at my panel have no other slots for extra breakers. Any advice on what should i do? I've changed out breakers before so I'm not going into unfamilar territory....yet

[Brian H]

Yes dedicated breakers would be used only for the coupler.
I believe that maybe for an electrical code thing.

I do know that some folks add them across breakers that maybe already in use. Not to say if this practice is OK.

My ACT CR134 Coupler repeater recommended a dedicated breaker set but has internal fuses that allow it to be connected to a used set of breakers.
Also not all breakers next to each other are on opposite phases.
By chance do you have an electric dryer or stove. Sometimes as a test titurning them on will bridge the phases so you can test.

Two great links for data:
http://jvde.us/x10_troubleshooting.htm
http://www.act-solutions.com/PCC/uncle.htm

[VTX Kruzer]

I don't have anything running 220, all gas. I also don't have any more room for dedicated breakers unless i add a small box just for them. Does this company offer a RF unit instead of using the house wiring.

 Time to do some thinking and reading........thanks

[Jsnlong]

You can find a outlet on each phase and have 2 Transceivers.

But if you use more then one house code then you would need a TRANSCEIVER that receives all the house codes or a RR501 for each house code you do use.


Whole house code transceiver
http://www.smarthome.com/1135K/X10-TW523-All-Housecode-RF-Transceiver/p.aspx

X10 one house code Transceiver
http://www.automatedoutlet.com/_search.php?page=1&q=RR501

The Cm15a is a great transceiver for all  housecodes  and you can program things with your computer using Active home pro but it still will only do one phase. ( Could use two of these)
http://www.x10.com/activehomepro/activehome-pro.html#

[PajamaGuy]

A Phase-Coupling discussion wouldn't be complete without Jeff Volt's XTB-IIR. It's a phase coupler, amplifier, and "smart" repeater all-in-one.  http://jvde.us/xtb/xtb_faq.htm

[HA Dave]

I have seen (read of) some users who jump into Home Automation (with both feet sorta speak) and buy the whole house all codes transceiver mentioned by jsnlong1979 and/or Jeff Volp's XTB-IIR, mentioned by PajamaGuy... and I have admired their foresight.

I myself struggled with a phase issue for way too long before I decided the good-enough-work-a-rounds.... just didn't work. For me the solution was a simple passive phase coupler, and an antenna modification to a CM15A. But I learned... a solid reliable system is the foundation for a heck of a lot of FUN... as opposed to frustration.

[Brian H]

I started with the X10 fix of a .1 uf AC rated cap in the breaker box.  Not exactly the bset thought here. 
Then a passive coupler in the electric dryer box.
Then a Smarthome Dryer Outlet repeater that was not always friendly to extended commands and bright dim commands.
Now I have an ACT CR134 for the X10 signals and a pair of Insteon Access Points for the Insteon devices I now have.
Yes I have a mixture of both.

[Jsnlong]

I started with the X10 fix of a .1 uf AC rated cap in the breaker box. Not exactly the bset thought here.
Then a passive coupler in the electric dryer box.
Then a Smarthome Dryer Outlet repeater that was not always friendly to extended commands and bright dim commands.
Now I have an ACT CR134 for the X10 signals and a pair of Insteon Access Points for the Insteon devices I now have.
Yes I have a mixture of both.

I was going to mention the Insteon access points. Cause thats how Insteon works around a phase coupler. Do they receive X10 signals also and Brian H please do tell how do you like the Insteon stuff???

[Brian H]

No Access Points do not process X10 signals, just Insteon.

Mixed feelings on Insteon; but basically happy. Most of my modules are early ones with quirks. Now SmartLabs is starting their new I2 [Insteon 2 Extended Messaging] protocol; but it seems some new I2 modules support some of the old I1 protocol; some do not at all and some only I2. This is making software to run them harder to write as even the same model module with different firmware may or may not be accessable by some; for things like remote scenes programming.
I still have X10 addresses programed into them for things like using my old UR19A to control them and to use a Touchtone Responder to turn them on and off by phone.
Also there is no Insteon Chime Module that I can trigger with my ELK Doorbell detector triggering an X10 Powerflash module.
Insteon modules can degrade the X10 signals just like the two way X10 modules can. The power line transmitter in them tends to absorb X10 signals if not the active sender.