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[oldnerd]

Thought I would share some of the changes I've made to my DS7000 Security System, which I've had about 8 years. Maybe someone will have some other ideas I can use.

I live out in the country, about 1/4 mile from my nearest neighbor, so I needed a loud external siren that could stay on longer than the little internal 3 minute piezo speaker. I have the usual DS10A door/window sensors, MS10A motion sensors, a PH508 power horn siren, and a couple other things I'll get to later.

To get an external connection to my system, I added some components missing from the PH508 circuit board that provides external N.O. contacts. Here's a link that explains how to do this: http://www.baranharper.com/files/x10faq.htm You are probably wondering why X10 left them off and didn't provide external contacts. If I were guessing, I'd say they had trouble getting UL certification with it configured that way and found it easier to just leave the parts out. You should not attempt this modification unless you are qualified. And you should only use the contacts for low voltage. I have noticed some of the X10 modules I have taken apart use what I would call a "hot ground" inside the module. In effect, the AC neutral leg is turned on/off/dimmed, etc. The logic ground for IC packs and other components is connected directly to the AC hot leg. This makes for an extremely dangerous situation if you apply AC power to the module with the case open!

I have the N.O. contacts on my modified PH508 wired to a hidden location that contains a 12V lead acid battery and an Al-6062 timer circuit board. The battery powers an external 120db siren, as well as the timer circuit. When the PH508 triggers, it in turn now triggers the timer circuit which latches on for an adjustable period of time. I have mine set for 60 minutes, although a 20 amp-hour battery could power the external siren for at least 24 hours. The outside siren is going to keep sounding regardless of what happens to my DS7000.

I also have two outbuildings with N.O. magnetic reed swiches wired to X10 PSC01 Power Flash Interfaces. These devices send out a X10 ON or OFF signal to a preset house/unit code on the AC power line. One of my buildings is 500 feet away, so distance isn't much of a factor as long as you don't go through a transformer. I have a X10 appliance module in my hidden location set to the same house/unit code. Then I have a little 12V wall mount power supply plugged into the appliance module. The output of the 12V power supply goes to the trigger input of the same AL-6062 timer circuit board mentioned above. Therefore, my outbuildings trip my outside siren independent of my DS7000 in my house.

I do have a couple issues with my outbuildings. The buildings are not heated, so I have to keep the PSC01's warm in the winter. Otherwise, they seem to fail to trigger somewhere around 15 degrees above zero (Fahrenheit). I have been using a 120V 7 watt bulb plugged into the same outlet and then covering the PSC01 and light bulb with a wooden box. I wish I had a better arrangement. The other thing is I don't have any provision for arming or disarming by remote control, which is also kind of awkward.

Oh, one other thing - don't ever use the little wall mount power supplies with X10 lamp modules. These modules use a triac instead of a relay. The power supply may work for a few months, but apparently the leakage through the triac silently destroys it.

[x10dude]

Thanks for posting the work you've done to get your system to be heard outside the house. I'd been looking for something like that for a long time with no luck. Needless to say, I'm anxious to get the mod on one my (5) powerhorns.

I looked at the site that you pointed to, and decided to go with mod v2. Unfortunately, I can't find the relay anywhere. I went to my local Radio Shack. They tell me that it's no longer in production. I'm thinking about going to a local aftermarket place. I already have all the other components though (resistors, capacitor, etc.)

Before going to the local aftermarket place though, I decided to open my powerhorn. I don't know what version you have, but the board on mine doesn't have placeholders for the components mentioned in the mod. By the way, my circuit board has a white sticker with "P11021B" imprinted on it. Is this the same one you have?

The only empty placeholders that I see are for "SP1", "SP2", and what looks like the terminals that would show outside. Everything else is taken up by some other component.

Ah, the number on the board itself (printed in light white) is "042010=12014A". I don't know if that's a label for the board or a reference to a component.

I'd really like to get an outdoors siren for my system. Any other ideas out there?

Thanks!

[Brian H]

Well X10 has been redoing many of its modules as the older parts where obsolete. Maybe the new Powerhorns are in that category. My older ones do have all the open component holes.
By chance did you notice if the microcontroller chip was a surface mount? That was one thing X10 said they where using as the old DIP ones where going obsolete.

[x10dude]

hmm... It appears as though I have the newer ones. I got them last month (along with $600+ worth of other X10 stuff.) I guess I dove right in. Now, I'm noticing a bunch of limitations and challenges. I must admit that the "porn" site does get you in a shopping mood when you're barely starting out! 

As for my powerhorn, when I flip the board over, I do see a tiny IC (can't tell the number on it, but it has 14 legs.) Guess I'm out of luck, then?

[drflash1949]

Hi,
I have the power PH508 power horns for my x10 security system. I live in an area that is not near to neighbors. I feel that the PH508 is not loud enough to alert them. I want to use an outside siren that I have and want to use your modification to power the added outside siren. The outside siren is rated for 12volts dc.
What will the dc voltage be at the screw terminals for this modification.  Since I have a 12 volt siren, should I  assume that  you would use a 12 volt relay in this modification.
Will  this modification power my siren.  Since I do not have any schematics of the circuit it is very hard to understand this modification.
Thanks in advance for the info.
drflash1949
Below is your modification that I plan on using.

Q510. How do I add a relay output to the power horn?

The following answer comes from oadebc@robots.gsfc.nasa.gov:

Description:

I have always wanted to add a relay output to the power horn. With this
feature, I can switch on a more powerful outside bell, an autodialer, or
any other load upon detection of a violation. When I opened the case, I was
surprised to learn that unit was already designed to do just that, except
the necessary components have been left out. There even are two holes in
the back of the unit for screw terminals that are covered by a small
sticker. After tracing the circuit, I selected some replacements listed
below.

Procedure:

The procedure requires the installation of eight components that should be
commonly available. Open the case by removing the four screws in the back.
On the PC board you will see near the bottom (side away from the AC plug)
the silk screening for the relay output portion. Install the following
components (all resistors 1/4 watt with exceptions):

  R30 - 1Kohm (1/2Watt)
  R32 - 12Kohm
  R33 - 12Kohm
  R34 - 200Kohm
  R35 - 200Kohm
  D16 - Any Silicon Diode (not Zener)
  RL1 - Your relay (see note below)
  TR8 - 2N2222 Switching Transistor

For the screw terminals, you can use a set taken from an unused (X-10)
alarm sender, or you can decide on your own interface. The relay could be
tricky. I was lucky and was able to find a relay that fit after some
modifications. It does appear to me however that Radio Shack sells micro
relays that would fit.

Operation:

The relay will close as soon as the horn starts blaring (and vise versa).
Your current rating will certainly depend on the relay you choose. If you
are so inclined, you could even disconnect the piezo horns, and have a unit
that silently turns on a load upon an alarm violation.

Changing the reaction time of the Horn:

After some poking around I found out specifically how the Horn is
triggered. A capacitor is charged a small amount every time an ALL UNITS
OFF command is received after an ALL UNITS ON command. When this voltage
reaches 7.0 Volts, the Horn starts a-blarin'. This usually takes 20
seconds after the alarm system is triggered, an amount that I think is just
too long. The capacitor that determines the reaction time is C13, located
near pin 18 of the 78566 chip. The 'stock' value of this capacitor is
22uF, and it takes five transitions of the command to trigger the horn. By
using a 10uF capacitor this amount is reduced to only two needed
transitions. Summary:

        Standard Horn (22uF) trigger time is 20 seconds.
        Modified Horn (10uF)                 8  seconds.

The quick reaction time will hopefully cause the intruder to stop his break
in attempt sooner.

Effects of Combining the two Mods:

If you want the load that is switched by the relay be flashed on and off,
you can combine the two modifications. The on to off duty cycle can be
changed by changing C13. Actually what I have done is to socket C13, so
that I can open the case and easily change the reaction time of the horn.

Conclusion:

I (oadebc@robots.gsfc.nasa.gov) am curious to know if anyone finds this mod
useful. Please let me know any questions or comments. Have fun, and I
will trust that you will not hold me responsible for your failures (only
for your successes 8-).







Thought I would share some of the changes I've made to my DS7000 Security System, which I've had about 8 years. Maybe someone will have some other ideas I can use.

I live out in the country, about 1/4 mile from my nearest neighbor, so I needed a loud external siren that could stay on longer than the little internal 3 minute piezo speaker. I have the usual DS10A door/window sensors, MS10A motion sensors, a PH508 power horn siren, and a couple other things I'll get to later.

To get an external connection to my system, I added some components missing from the PH508 circuit board that provides external N.O. contacts. Here's a link that explains how to do this: http://www.baranharper.com/files/x10faq.htm You are probably wondering why X10 left them off and didn't provide external contacts. If I were guessing, I'd say they had trouble getting UL certification with it configured that way and found it easier to just leave the parts out. You should not attempt this modification unless you are qualified. And you should only use the contacts for low voltage. I have noticed some of the X10 modules I have taken apart use what I would call a "hot ground" inside the module. In effect, the AC neutral leg is turned on/off/dimmed, etc. The logic ground for IC packs and other components is connected directly to the AC hot leg. This makes for an extremely dangerous situation if you apply AC power to the module with the case open!

I have the N.O. contacts on my modified PH508 wired to a hidden location that contains a 12V lead acid battery and an Al-6062 timer circuit board. The battery powers an external 120db siren, as well as the timer circuit. When the PH508 triggers, it in turn now triggers the timer circuit which latches on for an adjustable period of time. I have mine set for 60 minutes, although a 20 amp-hour battery could power the external siren for at least 24 hours. The outside siren is going to keep sounding regardless of what happens to my DS7000.

I also have two outbuildings with N.O. magnetic reed swiches wired to X10 PSC01 Power Flash Interfaces. These devices send out a X10 ON or OFF signal to a preset house/unit code on the AC power line. One of my buildings is 500 feet away, so distance isn't much of a factor as long as you don't go through a transformer. I have a X10 appliance module in my hidden location set to the same house/unit code. Then I have a little 12V wall mount power supply plugged into the appliance module. The output of the 12V power supply goes to the trigger input of the same AL-6062 timer circuit board mentioned above. Therefore, my outbuildings trip my outside siren independent of my DS7000 in my house.

I do have a couple issues with my outbuildings. The buildings are not heated, so I have to keep the PSC01's warm in the winter. Otherwise, they seem to fail to trigger somewhere around 15 degrees above zero (Fahrenheit). I have been using a 120V 7 watt bulb plugged into the same outlet and then covering the PSC01 and light bulb with a wooden box. I wish I had a better arrangement. The other thing is I don't have any provision for arming or disarming by remote control, which is also kind of awkward.

Oh, one other thing - don't ever use the little wall mount power supplies with X10 lamp modules. These modules use a triac instead of a relay. The power supply may work for a few months, but apparently the leakage through the triac silently destroys it.

[Brian H]

The modification has no voltage on the terminals. The added relay acts like a switch. You would need an external 12 volt power supply that can supply enough current to run the siren. The relays contacts should also be able to handle the needed current.

The PC Board in the PH508 should have markings to indicate what components go where.

I believe some here have said the newer revision PH508 modules do not have the area to add the parts. So you may want to check and see if yours has the empty area. Also does the back part of the case have an opening for the terminals covered with a plastic sheet? That maybe another indication.

[drflash1949]

The modification has no voltage on the terminals. The added relay acts like a switch. You would need an external 12 volt power supply that can supply enough current to run the siren. The relays contacts should also be able to handle the needed current.

The PC Board in the PH508 should have markings to indicate what components go where.

I believe some here have said the newer revision PH508 modules do not have the area to add the parts. So you may want to check and see if yours has the empty area. Also does the back part of the case have an opening for the terminals covered with a plastic sheet? That maybe another indication.

Hello Brian,
I looked at the PH508 board that I have and all the componets are silked screened on the board. And yes the back of the case has an opening for the terminals.
What are the two terminals for on the back of the PH508.
How would you hook up a power supply to power an exterior siren?
I am a little confused
Thanks in advance

[Brian H]

The two terminals are where the relay's output is. It is like a switch and when the siren starts sounding; the switch closes.
One problem the author didn't cover was a relay with the proper voltage coil for the siren to turn on and matches the hole pattern on the PC Board. I tried at one time to find a relay and never found a match to the pattern. Where the two coil terminals and three contacts matched.

 External +12 volts ---------* terminals *---------+ siren - |
 External -12 volts ----------------------------------------|

[drflash1949]

The two terminals are where the relay's output is. It is like a switch and when the siren starts sounding; the switch closes.
One problem the author didn't cover was a relay with the proper voltage coil for the siren to turn on and matches the hole pattern on the PC Board. I tried at one time to find a relay and never found a match to the pattern. Where the two coil terminals and three contacts matched.

 External +12 volts ---------* terminals *---------+ siren - |
 External -12 volts ----------------------------------------|

Hello Brian,
I have made jpg photo's of the PH508. I drew on the Photo's placing the componets that I want to place. If it is possible for you to show me the proper way to hook up the componets. I am still a little confused. I used adobe photoshop elements to draw on the photo's. Another thing I think there is enough room to epoxy a relay to the board and then run the wires to the hole's on the board where the relay goes. What do you think?
Again thank  you for the help.

[drflash1949]

Hello,
I have another idea for and external siren.
I have a PS561 Voice Dialer Security Consel. I read in the owners manual that when the alarm is triggered on the consel, any light on the wall switch (Model WS467) will flash until the alarm shuts off after 4 minutes, then the light will stay on showing that an alarm has occured. I have a question about this feature. Will a Decorator Style Remote Control Wall Switch (WS13A) act the same as the WS467 when the alarm is triggered.?  If the WS13A acts the same as the WS467, could I hook  a power supply to the load of the switch to trigger a 12 volt external siren. Attached is a sketch of my idea.
Thanks in advance for any advise[/b]

[Brian H]

I take it you can find the correct component placement from the silk screen on the PCB.
In "PH508 1.JPG" Leg 1 to pos siren. Leg 2 to pos of 12 volt power supply. Neg of power supply to neg of siren.

Your WS13A may work. I no longer have a DS7000 to test with and didn't document what is sent with each mode; I do have panic mode readings. I did test the X10Pro version of the WS13A; an XPS3. It does react to the All Lights On; All Lights Off and All Units Off signals sent during a panic. I believe you would have to have it set to the same house code as the console but not the same unit code. If it has the same unit code I believe Armed with delay turns on the light and thus the siren. 

I just looked at the Users Manual again. I believe it keeps the lights On to indicate a alarm was triggered after it times out in four minutes. That could keep the siren connected to the WS13A On until you reset the console.

[drflash1949]

UPDATE ON MY IDEA THAT I TALK ABOUT BELOW.
MY IDEA WORKS.

I USED THE WS13A SWITCH CIRCUIT (SEE ATTACHED DRAWING ON ORIGINAL POST) TO CONTROL A DEDICATED RECEPTACLE. I PLUGED IN A 12VOLT 2.5 AMP POWER SUPPLY AND HOOKED UP THE FOLLWOING SIREN.
(Ademco Self-Contained Exterior Electronic Siren-702 (Hardwired)) THE SIREN HAS ITS OWN DRIVERS SO WHEN  THE ALARM IS TRIPPED THE EXTERIOR SIREN BLASTS ON AND OFF UNTIL THE ALARM QUITS AND REMAINS ON,   UNTIL YOU RESET THE WS13A. THE SIREN CAN BE FOUND AT https://www.watchdogsuperstore.com. THIS HAS BEEN A LONG JOURNY TRYING TO FIGURE THIS OUT, I HOPE THAT THIS WILL HELP OTHER'S WHO WANT TO ADD AN EXTERIOR ALARM TO THEIR PS561 VOICE DIALER SECURITY CONSEL.

Hello,
I have another idea for and external siren.
I have a PS561 Voice Dialer Security Counsel. I read in the owners manual that when the alarm is triggered on the counsel, any light on the wall switch (Model WS467) will flash until the alarm shuts off after 4 minutes, then the light will stay on showing that an alarm has occurred. I have a question about this feature. Will a Decorator Style Remote Control Wall Switch (WS13A) act the same as the WS467 when the alarm is triggered.?  If the WS13A acts the same as the WS467, could I hook a power supply to the load of the switch to trigger a 12 volt external siren. Attached is a sketch of my idea.
Thanks in advance for any advise[/b]

[everydayflyer]

Here is a simple fairly inexpensive idea.

You can purchase car alarms for under $50 that have a timer built in and  come with fairly loud sirens. You only need a 12 volts power source such as a 12V perhaps 7.2Ah sealed Pb battery such as used in many computer UPS units. A UM506 Universal Module can be used to trigger the auto alarm as most have a remote trigger contact that triggers the alarm when it goes to ground.
You could also use the output that goes to the actual siren to trigger a Powerflash  which could trigger other modules. Many of these auto alarms even have a keyfood remote for arming and disarming so you would have the option of arming the external siren only when away or disarming it while doing routine system test and not wanting to annoy the neighbors.

[tybirdtybird]

Like to know if you use this PSC01 Powerflash Burgular Alarm Interface to hook up a siren to it ?

[drflash1949]

Hi  tybirdtybird,
Your question was:
Like to know if you use this PSC01 Powerflash Burgular Alarm Interface to hook up a siren to it ?
The answer to that is no. I used a WS13 wall switch, and a receptacle.

Read the following:
I have another idea for and external siren.
I have a PS561 Voice Dialer Security Consel. I read in the owners manual that when the alarm is triggered on the consel, any light on the wall switch (Model WS467) will flash until the alarm shuts off after 4 minutes, then the light will stay on showing that an alarm has occured. I have a question about this feature. Will a Decorator Style Remote Control Wall Switch (WS13A) act the same as the WS467 when the alarm is triggered.?  If the WS13A acts the same as the WS467, could I hook  a power supply to the load of the switch to trigger a 12 volt external siren. Attached is a sketch of my idea.
LOOK AT THE ATTACHED SCHEMATICS UP AT THE FORM

UPDATE ON MY IDEA THAT I TALK ABOUT BELOW.
MY IDEA WORKS.
I USED THE WS13A SWITCH CIRCUIT (SEE ATTACHED DRAWING ON ORIGINAL POST) TO CONTROL A DEDICATED RECEPTACLE. I PLUGED IN A 12VOLT 2.5 AMP POWER SUPPLY AND HOOKED UP THE FOLLWOING SIREN.
(Ademco Self-Contained Exterior Electronic Siren-702 (Hardwired)) THE SIREN HAS ITS OWN DRIVERS SO WHEN  THE ALARM IS TRIPPED THE EXTERIOR SIREN BLASTS ON AND OFF UNTIL THE ALARM QUITS AND REMAINS ON,   UNTIL YOU RESET THE WS13A. THE SIREN CAN BE FOUND AT https://www.watchdogsuperstore.com. THIS HAS BEEN A LONG JOURNY TRYING TO FIGURE THIS OUT, I HOPE THAT THIS WILL HELP OTHER'S WHO WANT TO ADD AN EXTERIOR ALARM TO THEIR PS561 VOICE DIALER SECURITY CONSEL.