Print

Please login or register.
1 Hour 1 Day 1 Week 1 Month Forever
Login with username, password and session length

[ozecho]

Hi,
Ive searched and found similiar issues but just not the same.  So here are my problems.
I have about 10 ws467 modules connected to 10 outside lights that are controlled from inside the home.
They all are on the same circuit and they all nearly respond just fine (turn on, turn off and dim)

All apart from two of them.

So I am figuring it cant be noise or signal strength, as 8 of the WS467's all work just fine, and they are all in the same box on the same circuit, just connected to different lights.

So I decided to rewire the one that didnt work (turns on, but not off), into one of the other switches.
Low and behold, that switch now does the same.
Could there be a wiring issue of some sort?  any clues to look for?

The other switch which is faulty responds to the light on command but not the light off.  but If I issue the "all lights off" it goes off.  Any ideas?

thanks for your help!!

[-Bill- (of wgjohns.com)]

Hi,
Ive searched and found similiar issues but just not the same.  So here are my problems.
I have about 10 ws467 modules connected to 10 outside lights that are controlled from inside the home.
They all are on the same circuit and they all nearly respond just fine (turn on, turn off and dim)

All apart from two of them.

So I am figuring it cant be noise or signal strength, as 8 of the WS467's all work just fine, and they are all in the same box on the same circuit, just connected to different lights.

So I decided to rewire the one that didnt work (turns on, but not off), into one of the other switches.
Low and behold, that switch now does the same.
Could there be a wiring issue of some sort?  any clues to look for?

The other switch which is faulty responds to the light on command but not the light off.  but If I issue the "all lights off" it goes off.  Any ideas?

thanks for your help!!

So, a working swich stops working when wired to the offending lights, and a non-working switch works fine when wired to different lights?

If so, there must be something different about the lights on the offending circuit.  Are they a different type than the others, like CFL's or Halogen, or something?  Are they in a motion sensing or light sensing fixture?

[ozecho]

So, a working swich stops working when wired to the offending lights, and a non-working switch works fine when wired to different lights?

If so, there must be something different about the lights on the offending circuit.  Are they a different type than the others, like CFL's or Halogen, or something?  Are they in a motion sensing or light sensing fixture?

Bill, I didnt try re-wiring the faulty switch back in to see if it worked on a different light... I'll try that next.

The lights are the same bulb... the fixture is slightly different... but they both are using standard  60w bulbs.

thanks for your help,

[JeffVolp]

If these are all fed by the same circuit, then indeed the signal level reaching them from the distribution panel should be the same.  The one variable is the length of the run between the switch and the light itself.

The WS467 is a two-wire switch.  Its signal must run out through the load and back.  The longer the run to the load, the lower the signal level will be.  At our last house we had a problem like that with the X10 switch that controlled our outside post lamp.  That is the one switch that often would turn on, but not off.  I installed a Leviton 6201 repeater, which boosted the signal strength enough to solve the problem.  Another option would have been to use a switch with a neutral connection for a direct signal return.

You may have a similar problem with long runs feeding the two lights that do not work properly.

Jeff

[ozecho]

Thanks Jeff,
Thats really interesting... this could be my problem.  The lights are quite a way from control board.
I've also just tested the switch that I pulled out (which presumably was faulty) and its working fine inside the house on a normal light circuit.

Is there a simple way that I could test the impedence across the long run for the faulty light?

So now you have me thinking.. could there be some sort of small earth leakage that enables the light to operate, but interferes with the signal when power is supplied?

Could placing a nightlight (7w) in the circuit be a potential solution inside of the box with the ws467?

thanks again for your help,

[JeffVolp]

I don't know any simple way to test the line impedance.

The best option is to use a switch with a neutral for a local return.  If that isn't feasible, some means of shortening that signal return path should help.  As you suggest, a nightlight near the switch might do the job.  Or try .01 uF line-rated capacitor across the feed to the light.  You probably don't want to go to a .1uF, because that would look like a pretty good signal sucker.

Regarding why the problem occurs when on, if the signal is marginal in the first place, the higher resistance of the hot filament will reduce the signal strength even more.

Jeff

[Knightrider]

..... (turns on, but not off).....

I'm surprised that Brian, or Dave or Dave or Bill or Bill or Boiler hasn't latched on to the above quoted tidbit.

Check your wiring to the offending switches.  This is an occasional symptom of reversing the "Line" and "Load" on the switch unit.

[dave w]

..... (turns on, but not off).....

Check your wiring to the offending switches.  This is an occasional symptom of reversing the "Line" and "Load" on the switch unit.

Yes, you are right, Knight!

[-Bill- (of wgjohns.com)]

..... (turns on, but not off).....

I'm surprised that Brian, or Dave or Dave or Bill or Bill or Boiler hasn't latched on to the above quoted tidbit.

Check your wiring to the offending switches.  This is an occasional symptom of reversing the "Line" and "Load" on the switch unit.

Doh!  I should have thought of that!      

 

[ozecho]

Thanks guys... I'll check this in the morning.

So, just to be specific and get clarification...  The BLUE wire is for Line (live power) and the BLACK wire is for Load (going to the lamp)?

Hopefully this will solve it.

Its weird, because when I played with it during the day, the switch seemed to be working... but now, at night, it will not shut off.  I'm in central Texas, and its hot during the day (100F)... could this be a factor as well?

thanks for all your help,

[JeffVolp]

At night you probably have more electrical loads on, which will impact the overall signal strength.  And you might also have some noise sources in the mix that could further corrupt communication.

Jeff