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[joako]

How do you guys manage to fit XPFM modules anywhere? My house was built approx 1950 but probably 98% of all the electrical has been replaced since then. In stuff that still has the old wiring boxes there is no way in hell an XPFM is fitting. In the newer outlet boxes they might fit if they were just slightly smaller. For example one I added a new junction box right before the fixture and with nothing else in there it barely fit!

The problem with use the wall switches is some places there is no neutral. And even then if I replaced all the wall switches with X10 ones, where do I put the XPT modules? I am not so much concerned with computer controlling things at certain times or home security that I am with the ease of use of lighting (e.g. going to sleep press 1 button by your room to turn all the lights off vs walking around the house tripping over stuff because you are turning off lights)

[Mellowmark]

Where are you trying to put them in the switch box or the light box.  They will most likely fit in the light box under the light canopy a little easier than the switch box.   I don't have any yet but i have read that some get then in the switch box though.

[dave w]

In stuff that still has the old wiring boxes there is no way in hell an XPFM is fitting.

The problem with use the wall switches is some places there is no neutral. And even then if I replaced all the wall switches with X10 ones, where do I put the XPT modules? I am not so much concerned with computer controlling things at certain times or home security that I am with the ease of use of lighting (e.g. going to sleep press 1 button by your room to turn all the lights off vs walking around the house tripping over stuff because you are turning off lights)

The XPFM is ment to be mounted in the light fixture or a box by itself, for example; a junction box.
The XPT does not directly control a light. It can only send out X10 signals, so it would be in a wall box (with neutral) by itself.

[Mellowmark]

If you use the xpfm in the light,  you can change the switch leg from line and load into a hot and neutral. Then use the xpt, this would not only give you controll of the light, it will give you added control. You can use the key pads with added switch controls.  They come with up to 4 address on and off trigger capability. This will give you local control and the ability to trigger macros and presets in your room to other modules, lamp etc.

[Knightrider]

The OP is correct in his original assessment.  I too, have a home which first saw electric in the 50's and the old boxes in the wall were small (imagine the screw for the outlet running on the outer edge of the box, not the inner).
Since I've purchased the place, those have all been ripped out and replaced with the biggest metal boxes I could find.

On another tangent, I've also replaced all the aluminum wiring, the service panel and put an outlet every 4 (yes, four) feet.

Guess they weren't planning on any X10 devices in the 50's. 

[Dan Lawrence]

Guess they weren't planning on any X10 devices in the 50's. 

Since the X10 technology didn't appear until the 1980's, nobody in the 1950's could even plan for it.

[Knightrider]

Guess they weren't planning on any X10 devices in the 50's. 

Since the X10 technology didn't appear until the 1980's, nobody in the 1950's could even plan for it.

Hence the wink.

[Brian H]

Most of mine are the same way.
I have one existing switch box that is three gang. Actually it is two end single gang sections and a middle piece. Kind of locked together with tabs and then real SHORT screws hold then in one piece. Well my extra fat Insteon ToggleLinc relay actually got snagged on the short screws.
So I had to use a SwitchLinc Relay that was a hair line smaller and then change the other two switches to decorator to match and easier to find three position decorator switch cover.

[joako]

One of the electrical boxes that was upgraded here is a 3 gang and the XPFM actually fit fine BEHIND two Leviton Decora switches. The 3rd slot has an XPT4.

Here are some pictures of an XPFM I installed in outdoor lighting. The fixture box was installed around 2007 and all the wiring leading to it is all new as well. Short of using a dremel there is just no way it can fit (properly.)

[Mellowmark]

They make an extension for that box.  It will look fine.

http://www.globalindustrial.com/g/electrical/boxes/weatherproof-accessories/round-extension-adapter-4-threaded-outlets



               

[HA Dave]

Don't forget beside the extention option... it might be cheaper to replace the box with a deeper one (also available). Its only a two screw install. You can even switch colors if you decide and go all white (I noticed the lamp brackets are white).

[preston]

The problem with use the wall switches is some places there is no neutral. And even then if I replaced all the wall switches with X10 ones, where do I put the XPT modules?

For the ones with no neutral in the switch box this typically means that the romex goes from the switch box to the light box and is being used as a hot and switch leg. By simply changing one wire around in the light box you can then have 120 volt hot and neutral in the switch box. Be for warned, remove the normal switch from the wiring first or someone will be in for a big suprise if they flip the switch after you make the wiring change. I also suggest you tag the romex in the switch box to show it is not a switch leg anymore.

I have attached some crude drawings to better show what is going on and what to change.

Normal Switch Wiring:


Switch box now changed to 120 volt for the XPT; The XPFM is also shown but can be in any light box for the light you are controlling

[Mellowmark]

Nice post with the pictures Preston.  How did you do that.

Can I  Have a copy of the pics.  Or show me how to make them. 

This little piece of picture and electrical wire modification can be a revelation to allot of users and can probably be transferred to the help threads.  Tuceman check prestons post and  pics.
 

Adding the xpt instead of a regular switch will make two way macro operation available when it is not. Adding the xpt into the 3way instead of the companion is just as powerful.  The  best part is the xpt can have up to four  PLC addresses

[preston]

Nice post with the pictures Preston.  How did you do that.

Can I  Have a copy of the pics.  Or show me how to make them. 

This little piece of picture and electrical wire modification can be a revelation to allot of users and can probably be transferred to the help threads.  Tuceman check prestons post and  pics.
 

Adding the xpt instead of a regular switch will make two way macro operation available when it is not. Adding the xpt into the 3way instead of the companion is just as powerful.  The  best part is the xpt can have up to four  PLC addresses

Thanks for the complement.

You should be able to just right click on the pictures and then click "Save Image as" or what ever your browser says.

If you read my introduction post in the Home Automation Showcase Section you would know I spent 30+ years in the electrical business and now I own a textile printing business. In other words, I print art on t-shirts. So I have all kinds of art programs. I did the rough layout in a CAD program just because I am used to using it and then added the device pics using Corel X4. After that a little cleanup of the device pictures in Photoshop. You could do it all in Corel or Photoshop if you wanted. Maybe when I get time I will put together a package of design elements showcasing some of the X10 devices and make that package available to anyone that wants it to use making their own picture diagrams.