Print

Please login or register.
1 Hour 1 Day 1 Week 1 Month Forever
Login with username, password and session length

[eagle]

Hi,

I'm doing a test of all the outlets and outdoor light sockets.

I know there are threads on more efficient methods to test the house but I have a modest size home so I figured I'd just use AHP and a remote chime.

So with the help of the "da boss", I was able to map out the house.

Most of the indoor outlets respond well as triggered from AHP.

There are two small rooms and a couple outlets that aren't responding.

Reading a tip from smarthome to test for applicability of their plug-in bridge, I turned on the clothes dryer and tested the unresponsive outlets.

What do you know?  Now they work.  Some outlets in a room with lots of devices (e.g., Xbox360, desktop pc, ceiling fan, lights, desktop flourescent lamp, clock, etc.) however required systematically unplugging some devices for the outlets to respond.  Some actually take a few seconds for the chime to sound.  So, I believe attenuation is an issue in that room.  I will shut off later what I believe is the biggest signal sucker/interference source in that room, the desktop computer with powered speakers.  It'd be interesting if my hunch is on the right track.

The outlets seem to work also for a few minutes after the dryer has been turned off before it becomes unresponsive again.  I'm guessing there is a decay that takes place via the dryer outlet providing a residual bridging effect. 

So, it looks like I'm going to have to order a SmartHome plug-in signal bridge.  I'm still debating whether to get the regular flavor or the repeater version.  The latter costs $60 more. 

Finally, I have four outdoor lights on an existing Leviton digital timer switch.  We've used this to turn on lights at specific time in the evening and off in the morning.  I've plugged in a working socket rocket and it doesn't respond to the CM15A or even a TM751 regardless of the outlet phase.  So, until I can figure this out, I will just let the digital switch do its thing.  I was just hoping that I could have 2 of the 4 on the socket rocket as a visual indicator/deterrence when motion is detected and of course to save electricity.  If you have any ideas or suggestions, please let me know.


Thanks,
eagle

[dave w]

Great testimony to the problems that phase coupling and noise can cause. Should be mandatory reading.

Now my $0.02.

Don't waste money on a coupler only. Boosting X10 signal can overcome most but the nastiest of noise sources. I would not invest in X10, Leviton, or SmartHome repeaters. They all have problems with extended code and creating "fire storms" of X10 signals when a 2-way module is in the system. The Smarthome repeater is better than nothing, but you will not go wrong with an ACT 234 or the XTBIIR repeater. The XTBIIR is the 800 pound gorilla of PLC repeaters. The only disadvantage to either the ACT or the XTBIIR is they should be wired into your breaker panel, where the Smarthome plugs into the dryer outlet. FWIW

[ITguy]

Eagle and Dave,

If your dryer circuit is fairly short - that is, the length of wire from the dryer socket to the breaker box is not too long (say, 20 feet or less), then I suggest buying the SmartHome phase coupler AND the XTB-IIR, then modifying the phase coupler to be a "pass-through" to power the XTB-IIR.  Best results will be had if the CM15A can be located in the area of the dryer so it can plug directly into the XTB-IIR.

The modification to the phase coupler is simple.  You remove the circuit board that has the coupler "stuff" on it and replace it with some jumpers.  You attach a power cord to the same terminals as the jumpers, then run that out to power the XTB-IIR. 

Paying $40 or so for the phase coupler sure is better than a couple hundred dollars to hire an electrician.

Having tried just the phase coupler with only modest improvement, I just did this mod last week, and the XTB-IIR works great!  If anyone wants to tackle the mod, let me know and I'll take some pictures and write up a little "how-to".

ITguy

 

[dave w]

IT

Basically this is what I did by wiring my ACT 234 directly into the back of our dryer. I considered making a "pass thru" from a dryer plug and dryer socket, but I think it would have gotten too large phsycally. Using the SmartHome coupler is a good idea. 

Is the coupler fused?

[Brian H]

No fuses in the Smarthome Dryer Coupler. Though it maybe possible to get a pair of leaded fuses between the input pin wires and the output outlet wires at the PC Board.

[eagle]

Thanks guys.

The panel is about 15 feet from the dryer. 

I'd like to go the ACT or XTB route but "da boss" will likely cut me off in more ways than one.   Yikes!   

She's happy with a basic setup but she thinks I'm going over the top already with what I've gotten thus far.

So, I'll give the plug-in a shot first.  If that doesn't work, I'd go the ACT or XTB route but at least then I'd be armed with reasons for the expense. 

Any ideas why a part of the circuit, e.g., the outdoor lights aren't responding to x10? 

r,
eagle

[Brian H]

Noise, signal sucker or on other phase and signal too low to work.

[eagle]

Thanks Brian.

It has to be one or a combo of those you mentioned.

I'll shelf the outdoor lights for now and concentrate on the rest of the system.

r,
eagle

[eagle]

Okay, I did some more testing.

The discussion about getting as close to the breaker panel as possible got me to thinking that perhaps I should do the same and place the HA computer and the CM15A as close to the panel as possible.  Why?  I was operating the HA computer and CM15A from the opposite side of the house well away from the panel.  So, I knew that the signal from the CM15A had to travel quite a distance to reach all the outlets.

After a couple of tries, I found the "best" location in the house that provides positive response from all interior outlets.  So, it appears that the issue has been signal attenuation all this time.

Another thing I learned from my tests ... I was using two socket rockets with the same address on table lamps.  I was getting inconsistent results from one of them, so all along I thought it was a phase issue.  After I replaced the troublesome rocket with an appliance module of a different address, that lamp was turning on and off with 100% success.  The dryer being on or off now doesn't matter, so it was never a phase issue after all.

Now that I've got that behind me, it's time to start installing the rest of the gear ... finally. 

I'll even try to see if the outdoor lights will work now.  But it's dark and late already, I'll try that tomorrow morning. 

Thanks,
eagle

[dave w]

Any ideas why a part of the circuit, e.g., the outdoor lights aren't responding to x10? 

r,
eagle

FWIW
I have had older GFI outlets and Arc Fault breakers stop X10 signals. My current GFI breaker does not effect X10.