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[merkelck]

I recently installed two I/P security cameras in the house and have tried both of these units in controlling the cameras power at dusk and dawn. What is happening is that after the command has been sent to turn off, you can hear the relay drop out, but then pull right back on again. The log shows only the command to turn OFF and nothing after that. but the power turns right back on. These cameras use a 5vdc wall-wart power supply. I would rather suspect that the power supply has something to do with this problem as the two cameras are the only things in the house that do this. They are identical units. I have four other devices that respond to dawn/dusk commands and they work great. The signal monitor shows the turn off command and nothing else but the units turns themselves right back on.

Any ideas???
Kent

[-Bill- (of wgjohns.com)]

merkelck,

Sounds like you are yet another victim of "local control".

Appliance modules send a small current out, even when they are off, and more or less look for it to be lost then found again as would happen if you turned the appliance's switch off then back on.  That way you could switch the appliance on by switching it off then on, without having to find an X10 controller to send a command to it.  It was supposed to be a "convenience feature".

Many newer "switching" power supplies will react in a way that makes the module think you have done just that.

I was using appliance modules to control my lamps with CFL's in them (which use switching power supplies) and some of the more powerful CFL's exhibited that "bounce" when turned off.

There are some posts on the forum about disabling local control on appliance modules.

Sorry, I'm just to tired to go hunt them down right now.

 

[Brian H]

I would also say local control triggering.

Small test. Put a small 4 watt night light bulb and the wall wart on the modules output. A power tap would work. If it then stops restarting. It is most likely local control.

How new are the PAM01/02?
X10 redesigned their appliance modules to be more CFL friendly; as they frequently triggered the modules; by eliminating local control sensing.
The X10Pro PAM01/02 may also have been modified.

[merkelck]

Thank you both for the replies. Now I have something to search with. "Local control". These cameras are fairly new "chinese" products (isn't everything these days) and I am quite certain they are using switch mode supplies. So I will try the lamp test and go from there. I would suspect that these PAMs are two to three years old. They were running some older cameras before that I am sure were not using switch mode supplies. I knew about the "local control" and it was convenient when you went into a room during an off period, you could just cycle the switch and it would come on. If that turns out to be the culprit here I may have several choices such as using different power supplies or finding some method of modifying the units to stop that action.
I will let you know what happens.
Kent

[merkelck]

The small lamp solved the problem at both locations. I located a procedure for disabling local control in AM466 on the Wiki page. But I am not sure that I want to do that yet. And I have no idea if the jumper is in the same location on PAM modules. I don't like having site/device specific modules. Now all I need to do is make up my mind.
Thanks again to both of you for the tips.

[Brian H]

You may want to look at the mods here.
http://www.idobartana.com/hakb/index.htm

I believe I cut a jumper and diode in a PAM01. Since it has AGC it may have a different PC Board in it.
Most time X10 and X10Pro modules use the same basic PC Board. I will pop the case and see if I can find out anything more on my PAM01.

Since the lamp did show local control sensing. It is not new enough not to have it.

[Brian H]

OK I looked at my PAM01 and it has a different board in it as it has AGC and didn't match any of the on line mods I have found.

What I cut to stop Local Control on a PC Board H10358B.

Board with components facing you.
Relay near top edge. Output on Left; Line Input Pins on the Right.
Top left edge cut D1
Top Right Edge near relay. Bare jumper wire marked Link cut.
I would just cut them and spread them slightly. That way you can tack them back together in case it didn't work correctly.

[merkelck]

Thanks Brian,
I will take a look at mine whenI get a chance. For now the night light lamps are making it work....
Kent