Solar Powered Motion Sensor (MS14A)

[HA Dave]

I am not sure of the usefullness of a Solar Powered Motion Sensor. But I do believe this is a project that needed to be done. Or... I just have way too much free time.

The amazing thing about this project was it was simple enough a five year old could do it... and setup was less than five minutes. Gosh you gotta love this X10 stuff.

As can be seen by the images (attached) I merely tapped the solar lights batteries at the + and - and attached the wires to the same on the sensor. The solar light I used has a off switch for the LED light... otherwise I would have needed to clip a wire to the bulb to shut the light part off. After all... the idea is to use the solar power to power the motion sensor... not drain the batteries on a light. To complete the project I mounted both the solar cell and motion sensor on a board.

[GMAN]

Thank you Dave! Gotta helpful from me... I think I can run with this.  Two fold.  My rear yard sensors kept false triggering. It was driving me nuts. I ended up fashioning 'sun visors' (which I'm not real proud of) to combat it.  Your craftsmanship has sparked  an     G.

[Brian H]

    Nice mod and write up.
I also gave you a helpful.

[GMAN]

Just checking in. I found where to get those Solar Lights and they should arrive in about a week. Dave, how are the sensor(s) working? Just wondering because they will be just slightly under powered. 2.4v vs. 3.0v The rechargeable batts @1.2 volts per as opposed to 1.5 volts per (Alkalines) we would normally use.    G.

[HA Dave]

Dave, how are the sensor(s) working?

Mine worked fine. I no longer have it in service. But it had no issues with power (or any other issues).

[everydayflyer]

Just wondering because they will be just slightly under powered. 2.4v vs. 3.0v The rechargeable batts @1.2 volts per as opposed to 1.5 volts per (Alkalines) we would normally use.    G.

Fresh alkies are in fact 1.6 ea. or 3.2 for the pair. Freshly charged Nicad or NiMH are closer to 1.45 or 2.9 but drop to around 1.4 in a day or so after charging. Sanyo Eneloops which have been in a Door /Window Sensor for three weeks still measure 1.32ea.  under load .  I use Sanyo Eneloops in all of my X-10 units except for one which I am using a single LiFePO4 (3.3volts)cell in.

Battery test data here

http://forums.x10.com/index.php?topic=20224.msg114130#msg114130

FYI  I have checked and could not tell any difference in range between 2.6 and 3.3 volts.

[GMAN]

Thank you for the info and good read fellow RC enthusiast!     My son and I are ground based RC'rz.   

[idbl_fanatic]

I See this is a rather older post, however, I was looking to do this, but have it plug in, so I don't have to keep replacing the batteries. Any ideas?

[bitman]

Alrighty then! and a helpful from me too!

[dave w]

I See this is a rather older post, however, I was looking to do this, but have it plug in, so I don't have to keep replacing the batteries. Any ideas?

Daves solar powered motion sensor used rechargable batteries so he does not replace batteries in the unit (until they finally fail of old age).

However if you are asking for an indoor application, use rechargeable AAA batteries and connect a 3V DC power supply to the motion sensor battery terminals - watch the polarity or you will damage the motion sensor and batteries. It must be a regulated 3V DC supply, otherwise you will have to use some form of current limiting to avoid over charging the batteries. A switching power supply such as the link below would work well (and at 3 bucks is pretty hard to pass up). A switching supply has very precise output and three volts will "float" the batteries slightly above their terminal voltage, so you shouldn't need current limiting (I use a 3V Gameboy adaptor without any limiting). You could put a female coaxial connector on the motion sensor, or just cut the plug off the power supply and hard wire it (solder it).

http://cgi.ebay.com/AC-100V-240V-Converter-Adapter-DC-3V-1A-Power-Supply-US-/260641800510?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0