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[AdamF]

 

Hey all.  I'm not new to X10 as I've been using it for years.  I have an XPS3 switch in place controlling an outdoor plug.  This has been working great for years.  I recently replaced the outdoor outlet because the housing was getting old and I suspected that water was getting in.  I now have a new GFCI, water-resistant outlet out there with a plastic outdoor housing.  Everything was working find for about 48 hours.

Now, when I press the switch on the XPS3 it clicks on, the red light comes on and almost immediately the relay clicks right back off and the red light goes off.  I thought there could be an issue with my outlet wiring so I removed the outlet.  Still the XPS3 would go on and right off.  I took out the XPS3 and replaced it with a traditional rocker switch.  I put the outlet back in place and everything works like a charm with the traditional switch.  So, I don't think the new outlet or wiring is faulty.

Is it possible that after 4 years my XPS3 just died and I need to replace it?  How can I test this without having to order a new one?  Any other thoughts as to what could be causing this? Is there possibly a constant "off" signal that is being sent therefore the XPS3 once on keeps turning itself off right away?  Or, is there an electrical problem or faulty XPS3 problem going on?

This is the outlet: http://www.smarthome.com/36544B/Leviton-W7599-TRE-Tamper-Weather-Resistant-GFCI-Duplex-Receptacle-w-LED-Indicator-Black/p.aspx


Thanks for the help.

[Brian H]

You could carefully put a power cord on the XPS3 and connect it to an AC outlet and see if it acts OK or flaky.

Since the standard switch {if it doesn't have a light} doesn't use a Neutral Power Connection. Double check it is not loose.

[AdamF]

You could carefully put a power cord on the XPS3 and connect it to an AC outlet and see if it acts OK or flaky.

Since the standard switch {if it doesn't have a light} doesn't use a Neutral Power Connection. Double check it is not loose.

I'll see if I can try this.  I know I have a stripped power cord around here somewhere.  I've reinstalled the XPS3 and ensured that all connections are correct and snug.  How come the XPS3 doesn't have a ground connection?

[AdamF]

Okay, I cut a power cord and hooked up the hot and neutral.  I left the ground (green) disconnected.  I plugged it into a wall outlet in a completely different part of the house.  The relay still quickly went to off after I clicked it on.  The difference this time was even when off the light stayed faintly lit.  It got brighter for the split second after I clicked the switch on but after clicking off went back to faint.

I'm thinking there is something wrong with this switch?

[Brian H]

It does sound like the switch has failed.
Does it maybe click more than one time? Like Click-Click-Click.
If the mechanical ratchet that moves the switch on and off fails or hangs up. Many times the electronics will try a few times to toggle it.

[AdamF]

Okay, I think I've figured it out.  I run my X10 on the "D" monitor code.  So, this XPS3 was on "D5" and has been ever since I put it in years ago. For the heck of it I changed the code to "D15" and now it works flawlessly again.  I have no idea what could have caused this.  I haven't added any new modules anywhere in the house.  I've updated AHP and all is well.  Bizarre. 

[dave w]

You don't have a loose "D5 OFF" floating around AHP do you?

[AdamF]

You don't have a loose "D5 OFF" floating around AHP do you?

That's what I thought but I haven't touched it in months.  I actually just had an issue with my AHP where it recognized the CM15A but wouldn't update it.  I checked around these forums and ended up backing up my .AHX filed, uninstalling AHP and then reinstalling.  Now I'm able to update the interface again, weird.  So, I've just left it on "D15" and updates AHP and the interface accordingly.  At dusk we shall see if all is well again.  Very strange all around.

[Brian H]

No lost remotes in a hidden place on house code D with the #5 Off button stuck?
We actually have had users with a remote stuck button.
Even more puzzling is the batteries die and the user thinks it was a ghost signal.

[AdamF]

No lost remotes in a hidden place on house code D with the #5 Off button stuck?
We actually have had users with a remote stuck button.
Even more puzzling is the batteries die and the user thinks it was a ghost signal.

This is certainly a possibility.  I just went to get the remote and it was at the bottom of a drawer.  If that was the case I just wasted a LOT of time today!

[LotusRacerX]

I installed an XPS3 switch for my LED swimming pool light and it worked beautifully.  For a few days.

Starting yesterday, when activated, it would flash the pool light, eventually settling on ON or OFF.  During this flashing, the red LED on the switch would stay on, and no relay clicking was to be heard.  (So the switch thought it was “on”.)

Starting today, it has caused the GFCI it is wired to, to activate.  The light and switch is attached to the LOAD side of the GFCI plug.  The GFCI plug works fine with the LOAD side black wire removed, so GFCI outlet is OK.

Could it be the switch?  Nothing else seems to make sense.   I will try hard wiring the light tomorrow, for additional diagnostic info, as I seem to have misplaced the original toggle style light switch.

Is it worth trying it without the GFCI in the circuit?  I still have the local breaker to protect it/me.

[Brian H]

Removing the GFCI could be a safety issue and maybe a Electrical Code thing.
As a temporary test. The finding may help.

It is known that some GFCIs and X10 devices don't like each other.
Some GFCIs mess up the X10 signals and you loose control of the module.
Some the X10 device has enough stray currents to trip a GFCI.

Is the XPS3 outside and if so in a weather proof housing?

Since it was OK for a few days. I wounder if moisture has gotten into the XPS3 and made some leakage current to ground and tripping the GFCI.
You could try bypassing the XPS3 {breaker to cycle power in the test} and leaving the GFCI connected. If it still trips then the lights wiring has developed a problem.

[LotusRacerX]

Define "weatherproof housing".  It is certainly not hermetically sealed, so humidity can get in from underneath.  And it is NASTY this summer.
Certainly rain proof though.

Some interesting developments.  Removed switch.  Tested with meter.  It is "on" (LINE = LOAD) without any power applied.  Is this normal?

Development #2. Without switch, (Wires to light twisted together), GFCI continues to fail when light is in circuit.

Tonight's test.  The orange cord comes out to power the light directly from the house. (Can only test the light for functionality at night...too dim in daylight.)  Outlet I will be plugging into is GFCI protected, so never fear.

[Brian H]

Weather proof was probably a poor choice of words. Outside weather resistant maybe a better choice and it sounds like you have such a electrical box.

Is it normal for it to be On with no power. Yes it could be. It is a mechanical ratchet switch and if its last state was On when you removed. It will stay On.

OK keep us informed on the tests.
Kind of pointing to the lights wiring or fixture.

[LotusRacerX]

RATS!  Worst case scenario.  The Hayward Color Logic LED light has apparently failed.  Freakin things cost $500 and the strobe light symptom has been experienced by many on the 'net, it turns out.  no replacement parts.  Just replacement fixtures.

They bill this stuff as outlasting conventional lights, but conventional lights can be changed inexpensively, while these things are unservicable.

So X10 is not the problem.  GFCI plug was not the problem.  Light switch was not the problem.

I had selected the X10 switch when I was convinced that water had somehow gotten to either the GFCI or the old switch.  Bet a lot of us come to X10 for a solution when other problems already exist.