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[BillB]

Ten years ago when I configured my home theater, I set up three groups of lights with each set controlled by a single Leviton wall switch subject to X10 control.  Because I have a Pronto IR remote to control everything else, I wanted to use it to control the lights as well.  This was done with the IR543 module.

It has worked perfectly until now.  The lights no longer respond to signals from the Pronto, nor from the 6-in-1 X10 Remote I used to help the Pronto "learn" the commands.

Since all three light groups quit responding, I surmised the problem was in the IR543 transceiver...so I replaced it with a new one, but still no joy.

The only other possibility that occurred to me was the failure of the 'bridge' device that connects both sides of the power to allow X10 signals to pass cleanly.  So I turned on the electric clothes dryer to create a temporary bridge, but that made no difference either.

I am unable to think of any other troubleshooting procedures, save replacing a switch.

What am I missing??

Thanks!

[-Bill- (of wgjohns.com)]

Have you plugged in any new equipment recently?
Have you changed a lightbulb to Compact Fluorescent or LED?
Have you maybe taken a power spike that might have changed the characteristics of a surge-suppressor, or even the Leviton wall switches themselves?

Just a few possible noise sources or signal suckers to consider.
 

[HA Dave]

........ my home theater, I set up three groups of lights with each set controlled by a single Leviton wall switch subject to X10 control.  Because I have a Pronto IR remote to control everything else, I wanted to use it to control the lights as well.  This was done with the IR543 module.

I have a similar setup with my home theater, except I used the Harmony remote. Bill is likely right... could be a CFL (even an older CFL that hasn't been a prob) or something as simple as a new laptop or cell phone charger.

You could try moving the IR543 transceiver around.... just as a test.

[BillB]

No new equipment, no change of light bulbs.  I live in the Pacific NW where lightning is very unusual, and there's been none lately.  My whole-house surge supressor still shows  green lights.  On the other hand, another wall switch (X10) in my bedroom has suddenly gone crazy and keeps turning itself on every few minutes...I had to disable it.  So maybe a power surge did take out all three wall switches in the HT. 

If the switches failed because of a surge, would they continue to work when activated manually at the switch itself?

Thanks for responding, I need the help!

Bill

[dave w]

No new equipment, no change of light bulbs.  I live in the Pacific NW where lightning is very unusual, and there's been none lately.  My whole-house surge supressor still shows  green lights.  On the other hand, another wall switch (X10) in my bedroom has suddenly gone crazy and keeps turning itself on every few minutes...I had to disable it.  So maybe a power surge did take out all three wall switches in the HT. 

If the switches failed because of a surge, would they continue to work when activated manually at the switch itself?

Possible but doubtful. I also doubt a "surge" is causing your problem.
I think the bedroom light going nuts is a hint. Too much of a coincidence.
Are the four switches you describe, your only X10 receivers?
Is the coupler active or strictly passive? Active coupler (X10 and Leviton being offenders) can go nuts. Usually turning off power to the repeater will reset.

OK I'm asking to be flamed on this, but did you check batteries in both Pronto and 6 in 1? Do you have any other X10 controllers to try?
You might still have a noise problem or a stuck transmitter problem (if you have other X10 controllers) . Assuming your IR543 is on the same HT circuit as your wall switches, try turning off all OTHER breakers and see if the wall switches begin working.
 

[BillB]

Wow!  I've never visited this forum before, and I'm thrilled to have the help that's coming my way....thank you.

Here more info on the various X10 devices operating around my house:

Active Home Pro is runing on my PC and connected to house power by the plug-in USB module.

There is a plug-in controller in my master bedroom set on the A channel.

There are two wireless-to-X10 receivers plugged into house power, one on the A channel, one on the B.  There are three wireless transmitters used to control these two channels.

There are several wall switches, appliance modules, and wall duplex outlets of the X10 variety on either the A or B channels.

The wall switches in the HT that aren't responding are on the C channel, and are not listed in the Active Home program because I don't need to control them from anywhere but the HT itself.

When I check the 'find other computers' in AHP, the C channel shows number 1 as Red (this is the main lighting group), and all other numbers as Yellow...none is Green.

The Pronto has rechargeable batteries and lives on the charger when not in use, and it continues to control everything else.  The 6-in-1 flashes its red light when activated, but maybe that's not good enough.

So now I have tested the HT switches using the old 543 and the new 543 and one of the wireless transmitters and the 6-in-1...no joy with any.

I am unacquainted with the idea of a repeater.  The bridge connecting phase 1 and 2 of the house power is strictly a passive device so far as I understand it...just a capacitor I think.

The loss of control over the HT switches is not a major problem, just a loss of convenience....plus I like to solve problems if possible.

[dave w]

Thanks for the information. Well you may have three switches blown by a surge, but I still doubt it. Basically, from your description: a non lightning related surge snuck by your whole house surge protector and blew out ONLY the PLC receiver circuitry in three wall switches, not bothering any other devices. In my feeble mind, that is too much of a stretch.

So now the important question is: when you try and turn on the HT lights with the Pronto...does it show up on the Activity Monitor?

If me, I would take one of the wired controllers to the HT and shut off all breakers except the one controlling the HT lights, hopefully you have an outlet on the same circuit. Unplug all the audio/video equipment and see if the lights wake up.

[Dan Lawrence]

Reading this I feel we can ignore his capacitor in this discussion, as I use a capacitor in my electric stove's outlet (220 volt) to bridge my house's phases in the 1980's when X10 came into our lives.  Our old stove (1980's vintage) failed two years ago (the oven control went nuts, regardless of what it was set for, the oven heated to 600 degrees).  New stove was bought and plugged into the same 220 volt outlet.  X10 signals continued to transmit to anyplace in the house regardless of which phase it was on.   

[dave w]

Reading this I feel we can ignore his capacitor in this discussion, as I use a capacitor in my electric stove's outlet (220 volt) to bridge my house's phases in the 1980's when X10 came into our lives.  Our old stove (1980's vintage) failed two years ago (the oven control went nuts, regardless of what it was set for, the oven heated to 600 degrees).  New stove was bought and plugged into the same 220 volt outlet.  X10 signals continued to transmit to anyplace in the house regardless of which phase it was on.   

Yes, I think you are right, Dan. A passive coupler is not likely to be the problem here (IMHO).

[BillB]

Thanks to the advice I'm receiving, I'm becoming better informed by the minute...I was unaware of the Activity Monitor!  Already I see how useful it is.  I suppose I was unaware because everything usually works.

So here is what I've learned:

The activity monitor shows transmissions made with the wired controllers, but not the Pronto or the 6-in-1.

The wiring in the HT for the equipment is all on separate runs from each duplex outlet back to a sub-panel off the main breaker box.  The 543 has been plugged into the same outlet as the A/V gear.

The lighting is all wired to the main box, not the sub.


There is a utility space behind the HT where the outlets share the same breaker as one of the HT lighting groups.  Following the advice above, I took one of the wired controllers in there and AHA! it could wake up the lights!

Thus it seems to me that either something has altered the IR signals from both Pronto and 6-in-1 so that they trigger the lights on the 543, but don't actually control the lights (highly improbable), or the bridge connecting the two phases of my power has crapped out.  If the 543 circuit and the lights are on different phases, that would explain what's going on.


Your thoughts?

[BillB]

Lights Responding!!!

Ok, I have a sloution, but still don't know the original cause.

This problem led me to mapping all the outlets in the HT to the sub-panel breaker box and labeling them (as they should have been from day 1).

Once complete, I found there was one duplex outlet left from the room's original wiring that was wired directly to the main breaker box.

So I plugged the 543 into that duplex, and now the lights respond as they should.

But I still don't know why the original arrangement quit working.

Thanks for all the pointers that put me on the right track.

[dave w]

But I still don't know why the original arrangement quit working.

Well that is now easy to speculate on: You now have noise on the subpanel that you didn't have before, OR you may have had it for a long time and finally it tipped over the X10 threshold. If you are interested in troubleshooting, start by moving the IR543 back to the sub panel and unplug everything else. Then plug evrything back in one by one, each time using the Pronto. You may have a switching power supply with an internal filter starting to fail.

PS sounds like you have fairly large X10 system. Just for giggles, ponder the idea of dumping the coupler and getting a good, high output repeater. "twill put a smile on your face and bounce in your step" (sort-of). 

[BillB]

Dave-

Thanks again for the assistance.  If I become sufficiently bored I will pursue the troubleshooting as you suggest to see if I can isolate the problem.

Regarding a repeater: Would you point me in the right direction?

[Brian H]

Many of us here have found the XTB-IIR very good. It blasts an X10 signal all over the home. My lowest voltage is 1.7 Volts of X10 signal. When checked with a XTBM test meter.
http://jvde.us//xtb/XTB-IIR_description.htm

The ACT CR234 is also know to be good.
Some other brands get into signal firestorms with the CM15A in some installations.

[dave w]

Dave-

Thanks again for the assistance.  If I become sufficiently bored I will pursue the troubleshooting as you suggest to see if I can isolate the problem.

Regarding a repeater: Would you point me in the right direction?

Just to buttress what Brian has already said. I have the ACT234 and it has been a solid workhorse repeater for 2 decades. That said, when the day comes that the built-in smoke gets released from it's components, I will get the XTBIIR from JV Digital Engineering.

All reports of the XTBIIR is nothing but accolades for the unit.

I have the XTBM, X10 signal/noise meter, from JV Digital Engineering and it is a fantastic piece of test equipment for X10 troubleshooting and monitoring of general system health. The unit out performs other X10 signal ID/level meters costing far more. It is well designed and has high quality components.   

IMHO, JVDE makes really good stuff. I know this sounds like a paid advertisement but it ain't.