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[lviper]

Ok, I'm reading through Jeff Volp's stuff on x10, phases and couplers. Need a little clarification.

I understand a split-phase. Meaning I have 3 wires coming in to my house. 2 "hot" leads and 1 "neutral".
In my panel the incoming neutral goes to the white neutral bar for all white neutrals. The 2 hot leads go to the main breaker and feed one each side of the column of breakers. So 1 hot lead feeding the odd numbered breakers and the other hot lead feeds the even breakers. That's the 2 different phases. I now understand that.

In Jeff's documents, he talks about a 240v appliance, such as a dryer, becoming a coupler. I assume that can't happen if the 240v circuit is being driven by a double pole breaker on the same phase. Such as a breaker using slots 1 and 3. Wouldn't the circuit need to come from both phases to work. Say a single pole on each slot 1 and slot 2? I've never seen a 240v circuit wired this way which is why I'm asking so I make sure I understand correctly.

[Eddie_T]

The main supply is 240 volts from a center tapped transformer. The center tap is grounded and used as a neutral. The breaker box has two buses, one down each side of the box and some ground and neutral blocks. The 120 volt breakers connect to one or the other bus  and to a neutral block. The 240 volt breakers connect to both buses, thus a double breaker (the connectors for the breakers are staggered to alternate buses as you go down the box). The concept is really single phase but X10 signals from outlets on one bus don't have a direct path to the other bus. The couplers are probably a capacitor that permits the X10 signal to cross to the other bus. If a 240 volt appliance or heater happens to be on when the signal is sent it acts as a coupler but may attenuate the signal so a coupler is a surer approach.

[lviper]

I see my misunderstanding now. Considering the numbering scheme of odd on the left and even on the right, phase 1 would be slots 1,2 then 5,6 then 9,10 and so on. This means that a double 240v breaker using slots 1 and 3 are actually using both phases.

Things get so much clearer once you understand things. 

[Eddie_T]

You've got the picture. I stayed away from breaker numbering as I didn't recall the pattern and was too lazy to go to the box. I have used two 120 volt breakers as a 240 volt  breaker by placing a nail through the handles to ensure that both would trip.

I purchased a coupler but haven't installed it yet. Currently I am using two receivers on outlets fed from separate buses. Some have pointed out that it's a code violation to attach couplers to an existing breaker so I am considering placing a box in the cabinet under my range top and running wires to parallel it with the range. Probably still a violation but less obvious and results in a shorter path for the signal.

[lviper]

I do like the alternative mentioned by moving all x10 controlled circuits to the same phase, or bus as you say it.

I actually started mapping the circuits when I first moved in to this house some 10 years ago. Think I will finish that task and see what I can move. Like running a separate circuit and the other phase for my entrainment system.

I have a saltwater aquarium with a sump room. I'm getting out of the saltwater hobby so that will open up 3 circuits for me to move things around. I had wired a circuit each for the lights, pumps and heaters. Yes, I really needed it.

[Brian H]

Some breaker boxes allow you to use 1/2 sized breakers. I believe then you may have two next to each other on the same phase.

[lviper]

Some breaker boxes allow you to use 1/2 sized breakers. I believe then you may have two next to each other on the same phase.

I do have several tandem breakers in my panel that provide 2 circuits on the same phase using a single slot. If I recall correctly, I think I might even a a couple 1/2 breakers as well.

If I can move all noise makers and signal suckers to one phase and leave all x10 devices on the other phase, that should work/help. Then I can use filters on the few things that must be on the x10 phase.

If that proves to be too big a task, then I will have to get a coupler.

Problem with the x10 phase would be the 240v circuits. Would a dryer, window air conditioner and spa be considered noise makers and/or signal suckers?

[Dan Lawrence]

Actually, a dryer would actually bridge the phases while it was running,  240 volt ACs will probably bridge while running, spa heaters might.

A cheap and effective phase coupler is a 0.1 uF 250 VAC Capacitor mounted in the outlet the stove plugs into, across the terminals of the outlet. The capacitor couples the phases and the stove doesn't know it's there.

[lviper]

Actually, a dryer would actually bridge the phases while it was running,  240 volt ACs will probably bridge while running, spa heaters might.

A cheap and effective phase coupler is a 0.1 uF 250 VAC Capacitor mounted in the outlet the stove plugs into, across the terminals of the outlet. The capacitor couples the phases and the stove doesn't know it's there.

I have a gas stove. Only 240 circuits are the dryer, spa and a/c. The spa is actually driven from a 60amp double breaker to a outside panel with a 50amp double breaker for the spa, a 20amp single that was used for the pool that is no longer there and a 30amp double for the camper which is only used for keeping the battery charged. If I run the a/c in the camper I make sure the spa is off.

So, could I use the capacitor on any of those circuits?

[troll334]

I'm guessing here...if yours is like mine, my dryer is about a 12' run to the panel. So too was my water heater which
is where I 'tapped' in to power my XTB-IIR. You want to install your coupler across a 240V circuit that's closest to
your panel. Further, and I'm not an electrician, I seem to recall the NEC talking about balancing loads between
L1 and L2 of the feed/panel. So if you're gonna move things around, take some time and consider the potential loads
on those circuits. It may be a non-issue; again, I'm not an electrician.
good luck.

[HA Dave]

I just used one of these:  http://www.smarthome.com/4816B2/SignaLinc-trade-Plug-In-Phase-Coupler/p.aspx
plug-in thingys to couple my phases. It was cheap, quick and all I needed. Those also are available in 4 prong.... as are dryers and stoves. Make sure you get the one you need.

[Eddie_T]

In following this thread I just realized that my thought of shortening the signal path by using my range top connection for the coupler wasn't logical as the signal still needs to travel to the breaker panel. I think I will use a 240 volt outlet in the garage that I installed as an emergency generator connection.

[Brian H]

Use a .1uf capacitor rated for across AC power line use.
The one I used was rated for AC power line use. Was a .1uf 275 volt AC type.

Some use 400 or 600 volt DC ones and think the peak AC is not close to the DC maximum. Depending on their construction they may or may not work safely.
We had a report a few weeks ago where one shorted out and tripped a twenty amp breaker. 

[lviper]

Lots to consider here. I might just get what Dave_x10_L suggests. My dryer is the closest run to the panel. However, I will still need to combat the signal suckers and noise makers so I probably better get a meter first. Just so I can see what is going on across my power lines.

[rjniles]

I placed a phase bridging capacitor in my circuit breaker panel. Connected to 2 adjacent single pole breakers so that each side is connected to a separate hot leg in the panel.