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[peg-leg]

This is something I've tried and worked for me.  If you try do so at your own risk. 
I've been using a non-x10 camera in addition to my 2 other x10 cameras.  I've had a problem though with the non-x10 camera's signal interfering with my x10 camera signals since the non-x10 camera was always powered on.  I recently acquired 6 XM18a cameras, at a really good deal.  The prior owner thought they were defective but I found a way to get them working properly. 

All that said, I found myself with 6 xm13a power supplies so I decided to modify one for use with my non-x10 camera.  If you remove the wire insulation, you'll find 3 wires.  One Red, One White, and one unshielded.  Using info from other sites I learned that one of the wires is power that's always on, one is a ground, and the other is only on when that camera is selected.  Here's the setup:

White:  ON only when the camera is selected
Red:    Always on.
Unshielded:  Ground.

My non x-10 camera only has two wires, so I simply used the ground and white wire and spliced those to the two-wire non x10 camera plug.  Now each camera is only on when selected. This solved my signal issue.

[Tuicemen]

Good Idea!
You get a point from me!
 

[HA Dave]

I learned that one of the wires is power that's always on, one is a ground, and the other is only on when that camera is selected.  Here's the setup:

White:  ON only when the camera is selected
Red:    Always on.
Unshielded:  Ground.

Solid useful and HEPLFUL (from me too) info peg-leg. THX for sharing!

[hawk1]

Been wanting to do this for a while, just never got to it.  I am super glad somebody did!  Helpful from I also!       

[Brian H]

Helpful from me also.
Just watch how much current your other cameras use. The rating on them is only 80ma and that is not a lot of current for a camera to use.

[HA Dave]

Helpful from me also.
Just watch how much current your other cameras use. The rating on them is only 80ma and that is not a lot of current for a camera to use.

Your so right Brian H... good catch... good thinking! But if peg-leg did/does really need a non-X10 camera to act as part of a group-of-four he could use that camera power supply (wall-wart) to trigger operate a relay couldn't he?

[peg-leg]

Brian H. discovered the potential problem.  The original power output was rated at 9V 300ma.  The xm13a is rated at 12v 80ma.  After working all day the non x10 camera powered by the xm13a began to show a lot of interference and a low power light.  Looks like I'm back to square one for mixing xm13a's with non x10 cameras.  That's unless any of you guys have a possible solution.

I understand I couild use an appliance module, but it would be great to be able to use the xm13a's I have available. 

Has anyone tried using a normal lamp module, one of the non soft start types?  Any potential issues doing so? 

[dave w]

Has anyone tried using a normal lamp module, one of the non soft start types?  Any potential issues doing so? 

Lamp modules and tranformer style wall wart power supplies (or any inductive load) do not mix. Even the non-dimming Socket Rocket has melted a couple of my transformer based wall warts, and the Socket Rocket distorts the powerline sine wave far less than what a Lamp Module does. I have used a Lamp Module to drive a 120V AC coil relay with out smoke and fire being present, if that helps.

[peg-leg]

Has anyone tried using a normal lamp module, one of the non soft start types?  Any potential issues doing so? 

Lamp modules and tranformer style wall wart power supplies (or any inductive load) do not mix. Even the non-dimming Socket Rocket has melted a couple of my transformer based wall warts, and the Socket Rocket distorts the powerline sine wave far less than what a Lamp Module does. I have used a Lamp Module to drive a 120V AC coil relay with out smoke and fire being present, if that helps.

Looks like I'll stick with appliance modules.  Burning down my house with  x10 would not be good.

[Brian H]

If you are electronically inclined.
There is a solid state relay mod for the older before Soft Start Modules. Lets you control things like wall warts.
I have done a few myself.
I have not tried fitting it into one of the new soft start ones as they use a different power supply voltage and layout.
Though I still have a few of the Sharp SSRs not in use.

It is on this web site and I did the one by Thierry Parent.
http://www.idobartana.com/hakb/index.htm

Since I didn't want Local Control I removed more parts than he did.
I can give details if wanted.

[HA Dave]

Maybe the more technically educated could look at this:  http://powerswitchtail.com/default.aspx  and offer an opinion if it might work (switch cameras).

[-Bill- (of wgjohns.com)]

Maybe the more technically educated could look at this:  http://powerswitchtail.com/default.aspx  and offer an opinion if it might work (switch cameras).

Hmm...  5 volt input would require more electronics to serve from the camera power supply.  Even worse than connecting a 9 volt camera to 12 volts.  Probably fortunate that the 12 volt supply couldn't supply the current.   
 

[HA Dave]

Well.... I guess it could be done (I haven't tried this myself) using an X10 filter, a powerbar/strip, powerflash module, and an appliance module (along with the modified Camera power supply).

• Place the cameras wall-wart into a wall outlet.
• Run a separate filtered line (so as to screen out the collision causing X10 signals) plugging the power strip into the filter.
• Into the powerstrip.. plug both the powerflash module and the appliance module (controlling the non-X10 cameras power supply).
• Wire the X10 camera wall-wart to the powerflash module.

I don't know if a trickle-saver type device would work properly with a wall-wart with such a small draw. But it might be worth a try.... as those are handy devices anyway. I use one on the wife's PC, to turn on/off the monitor as well as the printer and backup hard drive.
 
Or maybe just a 12 Volt very low amp relay controlled by the X10 wallwart (again... I haven't tried this). Then use the relay to control/switch the video source of the Non-X10 camera (which would be left ON 24/7.

Or use a video switcher with the non-X10 cameras video serving as the source video which the other cameras switching the video output. I use Video auto-switchers in my setup and they work great.

But of course... the best easiest way would be a set of macros in AHP.

[peg-leg]

"I don't know if a trickle-saver type device would work properly with a wall-wart with such a small draw. But it might be worth a try.... as those are handy devices anyway. I use one on the wife's PC, to turn on/off the monitor as well as the printer and backup hard drive."

I use an appliance module with a timer to do something similar.  I have my tv and dvd player on one 15amp appliance module.  AHP shuts the module off each night at a specified time and turns them on briefly each morning then off again.  AHP turns the module back on each afternoon before we return home from work and school.

Should be saving a little power, I hope...

[HA Dave]

..... Should be saving a little power, I hope...

I know a lot of people are concerned about electrical vampire usage (the power consumed by idle devices, often ones with IR remotes or clocks). I am not.

From what I've read... the wattage that some magazine articles claim... just isn't there. Maybe some really old devices did waste a few watts while in stand by. They also used more while in use as well. I've updated and/or converted everything (lighting included) to what works best for me. I calculate by dollars... not watts, or British Thermal Units, Calories, Horse power, or carbon tonnage. I will not waste a dime of my time, to save a nickel of electric. But I also gladly spend several times what I will ever receive in a savings return... to try a new technology like LED's.

I am not and environmentalist. I practice a conventional religion... and have no need to hug trees. My concern is to provide a comfortable, attractive, and safe environment for me, my wife, and guests. One accidental fall in a dark or poorly lighted area.... could cost me YEARS of what my electric costs. Not to mention pain or inconvenience.

To me... the risk posed of smoke damage from a left on el-cheapo printer gone bad... is greater than the less than a penny a day it cost in electric to power it in standby. But I don't like going around checking stuff... and manually turning things off. To me Home Automation gives me the best of all worlds.