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[npampel]

I setup a Macro for a Bathroom light connected to an older WS467 to DIM at night when motion is triggered by a sensor and it appears to only work by coming FULL on then DIM to the level I set.  I really would like for it to brighten to the level set, so it is easier on the eyes at night.  I believe I read somewhere in the posts that the older WS467's cannot do that.  It must come on FULL then DIM.  Can someone please confirm?

Many Thanks,
Nate

[Dan Lawrence]

I setup a Macro for a Bathroom light connected to an older WS467 to DIM at night when motion is triggered by a sensor and it appears to only work by coming FULL on then DIM to the level I set.  I really would like for it to brighten to the level set, so it is easier on the eyes at night.  I believe I read somewhere in the posts that the older WS467's cannot do that.  It must come on FULL then DIM.  Can someone please confirm?

Many Thanks,
Nate

That's how older WS467's react.  Full on and then dim.

[npampel]

Thank you Dan.  I thought that was the case, but was hoping otherwise.  Thanks again for the confirmation. 

[dave w]

I setup a Macro for a Bathroom light connected to an older WS467 to DIM at night when motion is triggered by a sensor and it appears to only work by coming FULL on then DIM to the level I set.  I really would like for it to brighten to the level set, so it is easier on the eyes at night.  I believe I read somewhere in the posts that the older WS467's cannot do that.  It must come on FULL then DIM.  Can someone please confirm?

FWIW
I have a "go to sleep" button on a bedside X10 wired controller which I hit before going nighty night. It triggers a macro that shuts off all lights in the house AND turns on full;  incandescent lights in the kitchen, a hall, and the bathroom, then dims each of the lights to "0%". This sets the stage for these lights to brightened from "off". These lights are controlled by old style WS467s that always come ON at 100%.

Then a motion sensor will trigger a macro to brighten the appropriate room lights to 30% upon detection of a midnight trip to kitchen or bath, etc. When the motion sensor sends the corrosponding OFF, another macro dims the light back down to 0%. At sunrise the lights idling at "0%" are sent OFF commands. With the next press of the "go to sleep" button the cycle repeats.

[npampel]

Hi Dave,

Thank you so much for that information. Wow that is great.    If you do not mind, I am going to take your suggestion/information and put it to use.  That is GREAT info.  Again, many thanks!!!   

Thanks,
Nate

[dave w]

If you do not mind, I am going to take your suggestion/information and put it to use. 
Nate

Nate  that's why I posted it.
You may not be able to dim all the way down to 0% and have the WS467's remain in conduction (you have to keep a small amount of current flowing in the circuit, otherwise the switch just does to the OFF condition and then when the WS467 sees the BRI command it comes on at 100%). I don't use AHP and the CM15A anymore, so you may have to play with the amount of dimming to prevent the switch from going to OFF.

[npampel]

Dave,

Do you think it would be possible or work to use a timer on the WS467 in AHP to come on at DIM level 0% at say 12:30am then OFF at 6:30am, instead of a "go to sleep" macro?  Or do I run the risk of the older WS467 not having that capability within the timer due to the WS467's inherit ability of DIM to or BRIGHTEN to before a FULL on.  In other words, do you think the Timer on the WS467 module can perform that "go to Sleep" macro?  Or is the macro the only way to make it happen?  Just looking at all alternatives/possibilities.

Many Thanks,
Nate

[npampel]

Tested last night with the timer on the WS467 to come FULL on then DIM to 0% in replace of the Macro and the 0% DIM did not work.  When the motion sensor was triggered the WS467 came on FULL.  So tonight I will try the timer on with DIM to 1% to see if macro will bright from 1% to the 30%.

Dave you may have something there with the 0% thing.

I will post my findings.

Thanks,
Nate

[dave w]

do you think the Timer on the WS467 module can perform that "go to Sleep" macro? 

Yes. You do not need a physical X10 address to trigger the macro, you can trigger the macro from a timer. Although looking at the forum, you may need to use a "phantom module" to trigger the macro.

[dave w]

Tested last night with the timer on the WS467 to come FULL on then DIM to 0% in replace of the Macro and the 0% DIM did not work.  When the motion sensor was triggered the WS467 came on FULL.  So tonight I will try the timer on with DIM to 1% to see if macro will bright from 1% to the 30%.
Dave you may have something there with the 0% thing.

Start with 10%...or some level that in a completely dark room, a very very faint red glow can be seen in the bulb, indicating the WS467 triac is still conducting. Keep dimming the bulb and then issue a brighten command. At some point the bulb will no longer brighten, but instead come ON again at 100%. At that point back off slightly from the last dim percentage.

BTW I just looked at my HomeSeer event that sets the "idle" for the brighten command, and I only take the dim level for "idle" down to 10%. Sorry, I forgot about that. I think "0%' in HomeSeer was too low and the switches fell out of conduction.

[npampel]

I used the timer function to turn on the bathroom light and then DIM down to 2% at 12:30am every night and then turn off completely at 6:30am and everything appears to work pretty good.

I also just picked up some more slimline remote wall switches and created a macro like you Dave, called "night time". That way I can manually turn this on earlier, but if I forget the timer function will kick in at 12:30am.  I know it is over kill, but it appears to be doing well, and redundancy can be a good thing sometimes. 

Thanks Dave for your help on this.
-Nate

[dave w]

I also just picked up some more slimline remote wall switches and created a macro like you Dave, called "night time". That way I can manually turn this on earlier, but if I forget the timer function will kick in at 12:30am.  I know it is over kill,

Don't think it over kill at all. I contemplated doing same thing, but didn't, only because if in another room watching TV when the timer kicked, I would end up sitting in the dark as all lights in house are sent OFF commands except a LED rope light under the kitchen cabinets and some flameless candles in the bathrooms so I can see the target. (being in the dark and sitting in the dark is two diffrent things    ).

In our case the "Go to sleep" switch starts the macro and actually turns off a small light behind the TV. The switch address and the lamp module address are the same. So is always the last button before pillow time.

[npampel]

I think that I may have spoken a little to soon.  Interesting thing is happening in my "night time" macro set on a slimline wall remote.  Macro "M1" or "Night Time" On does the following:

1. Turn house code "H" off - all lights are on H
2. Delay 1 second
3. Turn H11 on and DIM 98% - Bathroom light

With the above all lights on "H" shut off except the living room light on H1.
*NOTE: But with the UR7# remote, AHP and other remotes and macros, it shuts off H1 with no problems.  H1 even responds perfectly to ALL LIGHTS OFF from the remote, but not from the above macro.  So I added a forth and fifth line to the above macro:

4. Delay 1 second
5. Turn H1 off

Now all works.   

Very weird, any ideas?  I do not have a problem with adding the 4th and 5th line, but it is very interesting.

[dave w]

With the above all lights on "H" shut off except the living room light on H1.
*NOTE: But with the UR7# remote, AHP and other remotes and macros, it shuts off H1 with no problems.  H1 even responds perfectly to ALL LIGHTS OFF from the remote, but not from the above macro.  So I added a forth and fifth line to the above macro:

Are you using the CM15A? How many transceivers are you using? Sounds like you might have two(?).

If so, disconnect the TM751 or RR501 and see what happens. You may have a noise or coupling problem on the livingroom circuit.

[npampel]

Yes, I have the CM15A (in basement to the middle side of house) with AHP 3.310 monitoring house code "H" and transceiving both "H" and "I", one RR501 (other side of house on main level) set to house code "B", a TM751 (middle of house main level) set to "C" and another TM751 (in basement Garage) set to "I".

Lights are on "H"
Appliances are on "I"
Macros on both "B" and "C"

With this setup and everything on different house codes, you think I may be getting some "cross talk".

Thanks again for your help.