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[CinemaDude]

Problem:  I am using a WS13A Wall Switch on a fluorescent light circuit.  The instructions say to use the NEUTAL wire and not the GROUND.  I was always under the impression that the GROUND is identical to the NEUTRAL -- don't both go back to the same point electrical point?  Thing is, in this installation the existing switch has a bare copper wire attached to a terminal on the switch itself, while there are two white (neutral) wires tied together in the back of the switch.  They are not switched pass directly to the fixture.

My problem -- If I take out the switch and replace it with thews13A wall switch, I will have to connect the white wires, i.e., the NEUTRAL  to the WA13A.  Luckily the WS13A has two terminal for the NEUTRAL so I can connect both white wires (they are connected with a wire screw caps so it will be easy to physically connect them) but what do I do with the bare copper GROUND wire?  I assume it is safety to protect the switch from ever becoming live, but the WS13A has no metal contact point for this safety connection. 

I suppose I could add a nut and bolt on one of the front flanges on the body of the switch which are the only metal on the switch body other than the screen terminals.  But that seems a little funky and probably WAY out of code.  Would it be safe to tie the NEUTRAL and GROUND together in the NEUTRAL terminals on the switch?  Or would that cause other major problems, like the house burning down?

[Knightrider]

Not a good idea.

Think of it this way:  The ground is the alternative path for the returning energy in the case that the neutral connection shall fail.  If you tie these together, you've essentially screwed over your back up plan.  Now the emergency return becomes your body. 

Yes this could potentially become a fire hazard.

I generally tie my neutral to one of the tabs that connect the switch to the box, or just clip it to the box (I don't use plastic work boxes for any thing other than low voltage applications).

I know this is an over simplified explanation (yes I took physics as part of my E.E. degree), but is should suffice as to why it's not a good idea.  Also, it could be mentioned that using the ground as a neutral can cause other outlet's ground to go positive in reference to grounded plumbing (I have seen this in my job as a home remodeling guy), and I know that in most places in this country the ground and neutral bar are one-in-the-same at the distribution center.  There are, however, places that stipulate that ground is ground and neutral is neutral at the breaker box.

If you have a neutral in the work box where you are installing the switch, please use it.  It will give this Fire Fighter/ EMTb piece of mind.

[Brian H]

Your original switch had a safety ground terminal and has a bare copper wire on it.
The WS13A does not have a safety ground terminal on it.
You could try and get it on one of the mounting screws for the WS13A or just screw it to the box if it is a metal one.