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[luis84]

Hello,

Just some general question.  I have my house wired down with x10, iobride to get commands from the internet and a phase coupler.  I have managed to design an electric strike to work with x10 and have my door opening!

so now, I need to finish the project with lights and applicances.  I have a few questions before I buy more product (thanks so far jeff btw, you rock) and I was hoping some of the more experienced x10 users could help

1. Controller Window AC - I want to control a Windows AC.  It draws a max of 800 watts.  It plugs into a normal outlet.  Would this job be suitable with a x10 wall outlet switch or could I use an appliance module? I found some appliance modules, they say they can control air conditioners but then they say they max at 500w.  What would be ideal for this? I do not have neutral lines in the boxes, I am in central america and I can't get one pulled since I am renting.

2. I want to power on off my TV.  I know the appliance modules would do this but will that hurt my TV?  Also .... it won't turn it on right? Just off? Any way to do this?

3. Controlling outdoor lights.  I have patio lights, they are the small inline bulbs, I forget the name but they are the standard little recessive lightning bulbs, there are 10 and they draw a total of 800 watts.  They connect to a switch which is actually two switches integrated into one.  Is there any solution for these? I have searched to no avail.

4. I have a light with 2 switches, this is called a 3 way right?  For those I need a main switch and a slave companion, correct?

[dave w]

1. I would suggest either the X10 outlet or X10 Pro XPR, or the Smarthome Appliance module. http://www.smarthome.com/2456S3/ApplianceLinc-Relay-INSTEON-Plug-in-Appliance-Control-Module-3-pin/p.aspx
All will handle more current than the X10 Appliance Module. You will need that because of the "start current" your AC unit draws when it first comes on.

2. No the Appliance Module should not damage your TV anymore than unplugging and re-plugging in to outlet would. No it won't turn it ON. Unless you have an automation controller that can memorize and send out IR codes you will still have to use a remote.

3. Don't understand what "two switches integrated into one" means. If you mean two switches in one standard size wall box, (we have gone down this road before, haven't we?) then you might look at an in-line appliance module like a XPFM. http://www.x10pro.com/pro/catalog/receivers.html#wire   Also, did you check Smarthome.com? Seems like they may have two switches in a single width housing and they also have X10 compatable in-line modules.

4. Yes, and yes.

[luis84]

Dave,

Thank you.

My main issue here is that the inline modules are wanting neutral wires which do not exist here and nobody can seem to pull them, we don't really have qualified technicians or electricians here.

I am not sure what I could do?

[Brian H]

There has to be a neutral power connection in the air conditioners outlet box.
Are you wanting to replace a wall switch that turns the air conditioners outlet on and off maybe?

[dave w]

My main issue here is that the inline modules are wanting neutral wires which do not exist here and nobody can seem to pull them, we don't really have qualified technicians or electricians here.

Like Brian said, you must have a neutral at the load (light fixture in ceiling, outlet in wall, or at the junction box where your patio lights are wired to etc. There will be at least two wires at the load (could be three wires like in US where a third wire is "ground" for safety). At the load there will be one line that is the "hot" or "line", or "power" the other will be the "neutral" although they may not use those terms where you are at). An "in-line" or "wire-in" module would be placed at that point where you have the two wires for the load.

[dhouston]

What country? Brian and Dave are assuming you have split-phase wiring (like the USA and parts of Canada) but there are many variations around the world.

• http://www.hyvac.com/tech_support/Electrical_Sources_Worldwide.pdf

[Brian H]

My main point was there has to be a Neutral in the outlet box. No matter if the country is 120 only or split phase 240 with 120 on each line to Neutral.

[dave w]

What country? Brian and Dave are assuming you have split-phase wiring (like the USA and parts of Canada) but there are many variations around the world.

No, I don't think anyone has assumed it is spit phase. What I know and was trying to convey is, there will be  two wires (at least) to the load  and luis84 has said, neither are called "neutral". Luis84 now has other X10"A" devices working in his system, http://forums.x10.com/index.php?topic=26971.0 so the objective is to explain that an in-line module will work, even if one of the wires is not called "neutral". ( Luis84 said he could not use an in-line module because he does not have any "neutral").