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[SkunkBayWeather]

Brian, once again thank you SO much for taking the time to help me with this.  I really appreciate it.  Sorry I didn't answer the question about the TM751 earlier.  It is the new version without the on/off button.  It has the x10 label where it used to be.  This morning I did the same exercise after rotating the dials and everything is plugged into wall outlets that are on the same circuit.  I had the same exact results.  They both move together whether I chose C1,2,3 or 4.  This really has me convinced that there is no signal getting to the power supplies via the house wiring.... In other words, through the process of elimination, it has to be the TM751 that has the problem.  I think I need to call tech support again and see if I can get a replacement unless anybody has another idea....

[Brian H]

It does seem like it is pointing to the TM751.
If yours did have the internal switch. You could have partially tested it by sending the A1 On to it and see if it want On.
Reason I asked about the relay. Some of  the independent automation dealers have the latest TM751C that has the internal switch again.

[SkunkBayWeather]

I contacted the dealer and they are sending a replacement with a postage paid return box.  I'd say that's pretty good customer service!  I'll let you know what happens when I get the new transceiver.

Greg

[Brian H]

Sounds like a good way to go.
Hope the new one corrects the problem.

[SkunkBayWeather]

I received my replacement TM751 last night…. Same results.  What a disappointment.  So, as I was driving in to work this morning I may have figured something out.  I may have misinterpreted the function of these devices from the beginning.

My interpretation was that you could operate up to 4 pan/tilt heads independently from 1 remote.  Set the house code the same on all devices and then each device would work independently with 4 preset locations for each.  House code A – channels 1-4.

Could it be that the design is you can operate up to 4 cameras on one remote… NOT pan/tilt heads.  The heads will move simultaneously and the remote will only turn the cameras off and on.  There are a total of 4 presets.  So, say I want camera 2, if I press C2 it will turn off all the cameras and turn on C2.  Then you chose which preset position you would like out of the 4 available.  All the pan/tilts would move simultaneously and it would not matter because you are only looking at one cam at a time….  Could this new interpretation be right?

If so, I now have two TM751 transmitters at home and two remotes.  Before I return the other TM751 I thought I would try plugging in both.  One on House code A and the other on House code B.  Set one remote to House code A and the other on B.  Could this strategy give me the independent movement I am looking for?  If it works, I’ll just contact the dealer and buy the one they just sent me. 

Sorry for the long winded post, but I am trying to understand the logic and function of these devices.  On paper this looks like an exciting technology that I’d like to learn more about.

Thanks again,
Greg

[dave w]

Could it be that the design is you can operate up to 4 cameras on one remote… NOT pan/tilt heads.  The heads will move simultaneously and the remote will only turn the cameras off and on.  There are a total of 4 presets.  So, say I want camera 2, if I press C2 it will turn off all the cameras and turn on C2.  Then you chose which preset position you would like out of the 4 available.  All the pan/tilts would move simultaneously and it would not matter because you are only looking at one cam at a time….  Could this new interpretation be right?

The addressable power supply, powers the Ninja and the camera, so when one camera is turned ON the other three cameras and the Ninjas should power down. Could you have an electrical noise problem where the powerline control signal from the TM751 isn't getting to all the camera addressable power supplies?

[Brian H]

dave w, Beat me in the typing. So some of this maybe a rehash. 

No you should be able to independently use four Pan and Tilt Bases.

The addressable power supply connected to the base and then the pig tail wire from the base to the camera. Should go On and Off with the power line commands. Turning both the Base and Camera On and Off.
When Off the base should not respond to the remote and when On it should respond to the base.

If lets say all four in the group are powered up and by default are On. All four would then pan and tilt until one is turned On and the other three go Off automatically. If power line signals are not received by a bases supply. It is possible that one would not go Off and the one turned On. Both would then move.

[SkunkBayWeather]

Thanks Dave & Brian.  Any ideas how I could test for noise?  And just to make sure I understand this:

1. Set remote, transmitter, and both pan/tilts to House Code A.
2. Set one of the pan/tilts to Device 1 and the other to Device 2.
3. Power it all up and if I use the remote they should both move together.
4. When I hit C1 it should turn Device 2 off and Device 1 will work independently.
5. When I hit C2 it should turn Device 1 off and Device 2 will work independently.

Could there be a conflict with the RF frequency between the remote and transmitter?  Does anybody know the frequency?  The room I am testing in has a Davis wireless console, wireless router and cordless phone base station very close.

Thank you again for all your help!

Greg

[Brian H]

Sounds correct to me.
Hit C3 or C4 and both should go Off.
310MHz from the remote to the TM751 for power line control and also to the pan and tilt bases.
120KHz Power Line Signals from the TM751 to the Pan and Tilt bases power supplies.

[SkunkBayWeather]

Well... that RF looks to be out there on it's own... I'll try moving all the devices around the house and maybe over to my neighbors house as well. 

Thanks,

Greg

[SkunkBayWeather]

OK... I'm thinkin'.... Very dangerous for an old Swede ....  Isn't one of the primary sources of noisy power lines flourescent lighting?  It may be time to swap out the aging fixture in my computer room.   

Greg

[Brian H]

I don't think the remote remembers if you changed the C1-C4 buttons to a different group of four. When you change batteries. You may wan to remove the batteries for a short time and see if anything changes.
Page 16 of the P&T manual shows how it could be changed to 5-8,9-12 or 13-16. Maybe you could verify it is on 1-4.

Helpful troubleshooting information:
http://jvde.us/x10_troubleshooting.htm
http://www.act-remote.com/PCC/uncle.htm

Lots of varied date on all types of automation.
http://www.davehouston.net/

[dhouston]

Isn't one of the primary sources of noisy power lines flourescent lighting?

Old style tube (or ring) fluorescents have not caused much X10 interference. It's the newer CFLs with switching power supplies (of dubious provenance) that tend to become a problem. I have seen a 60 year old fluorescent put an inductive spike on the line (and with a visible spark at the switch) when turned off (which bothered one X10 module but not others) but have never heard of any outputting steady noise.

It is probably worth investing in a lamp module that you can plug in next to and set to the same address as a power supply to see whether the TM751 PLC signal is reaching the power supply.

• http://www.thex10shop.com/product/x10-powerhouse-lm465-300-watt-soft-start-home-automation-lamp-module
  
  

[SkunkBayWeather]

You guys are a wealth of knowledge!  You just filled up my evening!

Greg

[Brian H]

Did a short test on a CR14A.
I did revert back to Units 1-4 if you removed the batteries and then reinstalled them..
The Lamp Module Test may show added information.
Just that the CR14A only sends an On to each unit and the lamp module is not like a camera supply. You would only be able to turn it On.
You can then unplug it for a short time and it should be Off again when plugged back in.