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[spam4us]

I currently have some ws467 wall switches that each control a 300 watt halogen flood light (pencil type bulb).  The bulbs are constantly burning out and I'm wanting to replace the floodlights with something else.  Perhaps LED or flourescent.  I know the ws467 doesn't get along with the LEDs or flourescents.  What wall switch can I use to control these? I also don't need the dimming capabilitiy. I also do not want to have an incadecent light in the line in order for this to work.

I've checked and rechecked all my connections etc and all looks good.  I believe it's just the design of the light housing that is causing the bulbs to blow.

Thanks

[Brian H]

Is there a Neutral Power wire buried in the back of the electrical box, the WS467s are in? A white wire with a black indicator on it is not a Neutral if it is connected to the WS467 now.
The switches that do not steal power through the load. Need the neutral power wire to work.

There is a way with Insteon parts but no reason you may not be able to do it with X10 modules.
In the switch loop case and Insteon. You have to do some rewiring. You change the wires in the switch loop to be Line and Neutral. Then power a Insteon Switch with the load capped off. Add a module inside the fixture and control it with the switch.
You maybe able to use an X10 wall controller. Sending X10 commands to a fixture module inside the light.

Since Smartlabs has removed X10 support from all their latest designs and some older models with later firmware. Using a Insteon module like a Micromodule and adding an X10 address may no longer work.

[spam4us]

Thanks for the reply.

Yes, there is a neutral in the box as well as a ground. Would the ws13A or something from the X10 Pro line work with LEDs or flourescents or will I need an incadecent light in the line?

Thanks

[Brian H]

Yes the X10 WS13A or the X10Pro XPS3. Both are relay type switches. For LED & Fluorescent type bulbs. Low voltage driven by a transformer and other inductive loads.
They do use the Neutral power connection and you have one.

[bkenobi]

Be aware that replacing the WS467 with anything else (other than WS4777 3-way module) will dramatically increase the space requirements in the electrical box.  The WS13A (and all other X10 switches really) are the full width of the metal plate on the WS467 and close to the same depth as width.  The same is true for Smarthome ToggleLinc and (from what I remember) SwitchLinc.  If you have shallow boxes or lots of wire stuffed in there, it can be tricky to fit the larger switch into the space.  I've done it a few times and my wife has asked if I turn into a sailor when I'm an electrician.   

[spam4us]

Brian H and Bkenobi,

Thanks so much for your help.  I really appreciate it.

Looks like I'll be ordering some ws13as.  I can free up some space in the box. I currently have one ws467 for each floodlight. 3 ws467 for the same house/unit code and 2 for another house/unit code and another 2 for a same but different code.  It looks like I'll be able to replace these 7 ws467 with just 3 WS13As.  The reason for one WS467 for each fixture is because the wattage for each bulb is 300 watts.

Thanks again for your help

[Brian H]

One other difference.
The WS467 used wire leads. The WS13A uses a screw to tighten a internal terminal clamp. Each terminal position can hold two wires. So you may have to use a pig tail from the Neutral Bunch in your present setup for a connection.