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[goodkd]

I have two wall switch modules (WS467) installed just a few inches apart. They are on different circuits, and both operate a different series of outdoor can and wall lights.  They've worked well for a few years now (4).  One works as usual (i.e., the lights can be controlled via the physical push button on the switch and/or our via various keyfob transmitters).  However, the other suddenly only works via the physical push button - the keyfobs do nothing.  I've tried different transmitter batteries and different home codes (on both the switch and the transmitters) with no change.  I even replaced the problematic switch with a new, identical unit and the problem still exists.   

Ideas?

Thanks. 

Kev

[toasterking]

Even if the modules are the same model, they could have slightly different requirements for the strength of the received X10 signal on the power line.  Manufacturing tolerances and variations in the parts and design over the years can affect this.  I suspect that the X10 signal getting to both modules is weaker than before and one is failing to receive it before the other does.

At this point, I would plug in my trusty XTBM-Pro signal meter and start checking out the circuit.  If you don't have a signal meter, try to think of anything that may have been plugged into an outlet recently, unplug it, and retest.  You can also go to your breaker panel and turn off all circuits other than the one your WS467 modules are on.  If the problem goes away, turn breakers back on one at a time, retesting each time, until the problem returns, then continue to narrow it down from there.  Keep in mind that the potentially offending device is not necessarily plugged into an outlet; it could even be a light bulb.  And it may be more than one device causing the problem; noise and signal blocking generated by each bad device is cumulative and X10 devices will begin to stop responding once you cross a threshold.  (This really is a lot easier with a meter!)  The devices on the same circuit branch (same breaker) with the WS467s are more likely to affect them.

[HA Dave]

..... However, the other suddenly only works via the physical push button - the keyfobs do nothing.

I've tried different transmitter batteries
... and different home codes with no change. 
I even replaced the problematic switch with a new, identical unit and the problem still exists.   

Ideas?

Could it be the fob itself.... or at least the one button?

[toasterking]

My attention is now also drawn to the phrase "home codes".  Most X10 transceivers only work with a single house code.  If you have such a transceiver (likely) and you change the house code on the keyfob and the switch, you must also change it on the transceiver for the signal to make the transition from the air to the power line.  If you just change the unit code on the keyfob and switch, however, there is no need to change it on the transceiver.

[toasterking]

Could it be the fob itself.... or at least the one button?

Nice catch.

[goodkd]

Thanks guys.  I spent much time looking at (and removing) things that were plugged in on the same circuit and even the same vicinity of the two light switches.  Then, I remembered the transceiver out in the garage.....   

After some trial and error, I discovered that it was a car battery tender that was plugged into the same circuit as the transceiver.  I still don't get why #1 works flawlessly, but at least I found the source of the problem. 

My transceiver is surely 10+ years old.  I wonder if newer models might have a little more 'umph'   

Thanks for the prompt and useful info.   

[dhouston]

My transceiver is surely 10+ years old.  I wonder if newer models might have a little more 'umph'   

NO! Newer models have only half the 'umph'. 
https://www.laser.com/dhouston/x10-sig.html

[Brian H]

Why one worked and the other one didn't.
One maybe on the opposite incoming phase of your power from the transceiver.
The battery tender was making noise or was absorbing much of the X10 power line signals. The X10 power line signal may still be strong enough to control the switch on that phase but the signal is way too weak to make it to the other switch on the opposite phase.

Do you have any phase coupling between the two incoming power lines in your home?
If you do have a phase coupler. What brand and model is it?

Jeff has a great set of troubleshooting tutorials.
You may want to look at them. Explains things like phase coupling, power line noise makers and signal suckers.
http://jvde.us/x10_troubleshooting.htm

[goodkd]

Thanks for the links, guys.