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[dspiffy]

In the past, I'd had bad luck using a single dimable LED bulb on a lamp module.  Decided to try it again.  Worked perfectly on lamp one.

Decided to try it on lamp two.  The bulb flickers dramatically even at full brightness.  Tried different modules.  Tried different bulbs (including the exact same module and bulb as lamp one).  Tried a different lamp.  Tried a different outlet.  Tried running an extension cord to the same outlet as lamp 1 (they are both on the same circuit regardless).  Tried disconnecting every other lamp and appliance on the same circuit.  Still flickers.

EMS?  Voodoo?

[Brian H]

Are the LM465 Lamp Modules all the same type?
Older style where the go on and off instantly?
Soft Start where the ramp on and off over a few seconds?

From all of the tests.
Did you try Lamp 1 with the OK module and LED bulb physically in the Lamp 2 position?

[dspiffy]

I moved module 1 to lamp 2.  It flickered.

I did not try physically moving lamp 1 to the location of lamp 2 as neither of these lamps can easily be moved without moving furniture.

I tried every lamp module I have not in use.  They range from 1980s "PlugnPower" to a year or two old.  I even tried wiring a hard wired lamp module (Levitron) into the lamp cord.  All of them acted exactly the same.

[Brian H]

Thank you for the added tests.
I wounder if there is some noise on the second lamps outlet.
I have seen some dimmers [X10 and others} reported to flicker with noise and some brand LED bulbs.

[dspiffy]

I have unplugged everything else on that circuit.  I cant figure where it would be coming from.

[Tuicemen]

Since you ran an extension cord to the offending lamp with the same bulb and module as lamp 1, I suspect the issue is lamp 2 Maybe the socket wiring is loose in lamp 2

[dspiffy]

Lamp has actually been newly rewired, new socket, new cord.

[dspiffy]

FYI:  I never actually solved this issue.  I just changed lamps, bulbs, and modules around so that I do not have a single dimmable LED on a single lamp module. 

A single LED seems to work fine on an appliance module.

[dspiffy]

I once again had to have a single dimmable LED on a lamp module.

Decided to try the "night light" trick but using an LED night light.

These draw 0.25w:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01H6N5WB0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

And while they're not dimmable, the dimmer doesnt seem to hurt them, they just stay lit all the way down.

Havent had flickering issues since.  It is annoying to have to add another lamp.

[HA Dave]

I once again had to have a single dimmable LED on a lamp module.

Decided to try the "night light" trick but using an LED night light. These draw 0.25w:  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01H6N5WB0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 

Yeah.... the "night light" trick requires an old fashion incandescent 7 watt bulb.

What I have done: Is for the ONE dimmable LED I use (and have rarely dimmed).... I use a Wi-Fi dimmable LED bulb. Problem solved.

But.... also I am of the age that I remember when "dimmable" was HOT. In the late 1950's.... homes built pre-war just weren't up to code as far as (then) modern wiring. So 150 watt bulbs in ceiling fixtures... controlled with a rheostats were really popular. You could turn it up for kids to do their homework using the encyclopedia.... and dim it down for watching the new (12" screen) color TV. Which BTW... had what was called a TV light sitting on top off it. Which provided a low wattage up-light on the wall... to reduce eye strain from the TV screen.

I guess those rheostats really caught on. Because X10 enabled dimming as well. And even though modern homes have plugs everywhere... people still want one big bulb.... they can dim-down... to make useable.

[dspiffy]

As I said, it works fine with an LED night light bulb.

[BackAgain]

I have a couple of LED 3W candelabra bulbs running on old style lamp modules.  They flicker a bit but not bad.  One doesn't turn all the way off though; stays lit just a bit when the module is turned off.  Doesn't seem to affect the operation at all though.

[HA Dave]

I have a couple of LED 3W candelabra bulbs running on old style lamp modules.  They flicker a bit but not bad.  One doesn't turn all the way off though; stays lit just a bit when the module is turned off.

Since being "lit just a bit when the module is turned off".... isn't a problem... you apparently don't need complete darkness in that area. So... why bother with a lamp module? As the module is using electric at about the same rate as the bulb anyway. Why not let the light run 24/7?

Not many years ago.... the wife and I would need 240-250 watts of lighting for our personal spaces in the evening. Now-a-days main and background lighting combined... we use less than 20 watts. Whereas it made good sense to turn off a sixty watt bulb when not in use.... it is almost overkill to use power-draining modules, hubs, and maybe even a PC to control a 4.5 watt LED.

Just wondering...

[dspiffy]

I have a couple of LED 3W candelabra bulbs running on old style lamp modules.  They flicker a bit but not bad.  One doesn't turn all the way off though; stays lit just a bit when the module is turned off.  Doesn't seem to affect the operation at all though.

I had this exact same issue.  I discussed it in a separate thread.  I found two solutions that worked:  1.  Disabling the local control circuit  2.  Wiring a neon bulb (the kind used in pilot lights) in parallel.  I've also known people to use resistors.

[dspiffy]

I have a couple of LED 3W candelabra bulbs running on old style lamp modules.  They flicker a bit but not bad.  One doesn't turn all the way off though; stays lit just a bit when the module is turned off.

Since being "lit just a bit when the module is turned off".... isn't a problem... you apparently don't need complete darkness in that area. So... why bother with a lamp module? As the module is using electric at about the same rate as the bulb anyway. Why not let the light run 24/7?

Not many years ago.... the wife and I would need 240-250 watts of lighting for our personal spaces in the evening. Now-a-days main and background lighting combined... we use less than 20 watts. Whereas it made good sense to turn off a sixty watt bulb when not in use.... it is almost overkill to use power-draining modules, hubs, and maybe even a PC to control a 4.5 watt LED.

Just wondering...

Because sometimes you dont want light on all the time.  Either because sleeping, or watching movies, or ambiance, or not being home, or whatever.

I've tested a few different controllers.  The thirstiest ones draw around 8 watts constantly.  Most are around 1-2 watts.  MOST LED bulbs are still greater than 5 watts, so there is a minor savings.

I am amused by the irony that I am using controllers that draw a watt or two to operate 0.8w and 0.25w LED bulbs.