Print

Please login or register.
1 Hour 1 Day 1 Week 1 Month Forever
Login with username, password and session length

[Knightrider]

Maybe the shunt swamps everything at the lowest setting. I would assume the dimmable LED already does that though.

[gkamieneski]

O.K. opened the 2-gang switchbox that houses my WS467 (controls garage coach lights, in place of original single pole switch), and another single pole switch that controls garage interior lights.

Found 3 sets of unsheathed Romex each containing a white (neutral wire) that are twisted together with a red wire nut. 2 black wires go to the WS467 while a red and black go to the regular single pole switch.

Seems I am going to have to tap into one of those 3 white neutral wires to connect to the white lead on the WS469?

Just remove the red wire nut, twist the white from the switch into that bundle (make sure all 4 wires are securely twisted together), and then put the wire nut back on (make sure it is secure).

Sorry, just saw this and thanks. So you are saying untwist the 3 white wires and take the white that comes from the cable nearest where the WS469 is going and use that as the neutral for the X10 switch, then replace the wire nut on the 2 remaining white wires?

[Brian H]

No do not remove one of the White wires in the Neutral bundle.
Add the white Neutral from the WS469 to the Neutral bundle so now there are four white wires in the red cap.

[gkamieneski]

Each of the 3 white neutral wires come out of their own cable run? Wouldn't I use the 3 wires from the cable run next to the WS469 and therefore the white wire from that sheath?

[Brian H]

I am confused.

Does each cable have three white wires in a its own bundle or the white from each cable is bundled into a neutral bundle of 3 whites?

If each cable has its own neutral bundle. Use the bundle associated with cable to the the switch you are trying to replace.

Be careful if it involves a three way setup. Some times white is not neutral.

[gkamieneski]

Thanks, Brian.

Each of 3 cables entering the box has 1 white wire and the 3 of them are twisted together with a wire nut out of the way in a 2-gang box. It actually might be tough for the white lead of the W469 to reach this 3 white wire bundle to tie in. Thankfully, no 3-way circuit involved in this box.

[Noam]

Thanks, Brian.

Each of 3 cables entering the box has 1 white wire and the 3 of them are twisted together with a wire nut out of the way in a 2-gang box. It actually might be tough for the white lead of the W469 to reach this 3 white wire bundle to tie in. Thankfully, no 3-way circuit involved in this box.

You could always just extend the lead from the switch. Take another length of white-insulated wire of an appropriate gauage, twist it into the Neutral bundle, and then use another wire nut to twist it to the lead on the switch.

[Brian H]

Thank you for the information.
The extension of the WS469 white sounds like a good way to go.

[gkamieneski]

White lead from W469 was long enough after all. Thanks for everyone's help as these seem to work well.

Has anyone else noticed that they don't seem to be UL certified? Any concerns? I notice that the W467s that they replaced did have the UL seal and actually on the back they indicated that they were made by Stanley.

[JeffVolp]

and actually on the back they indicated that they were made by Stanley.

I believe they were almost all made by the same X10 factory in China, and sold under various other names - Radio Shack, Leviton, Stanley.  Differences are mainly cosmetic.  The Stanley tabletop controller on my night stand is almost identical to the Radio Shack version on on my wife's night stand except the Stanley has independent bright/dim and all on/off buttons where the Radio Shack uses rocker switches.  While many of the Leviton versions were identical to the X10 equivalent, Leviton also offered wall switches with true rocker action which may have been from a different factory.

Jeff

[gkamieneski]

Yes, but what about the lack of UL approval?

[dave w]

Yes, but what about the lack of UL approval?

I would not worry about it. They are likely identical inside to the Stanley's. X10 probably did not want to pay for the certification process. UL approval isn't a requirement.

[Brian H]

All of mine have an UL Listed 340F on it and if it has a transmitter a FCC Database number starting with B4S.
My Radio Shack 49-1000 Security consoles sensors and remotes also have the same B4S starting ID. As X10 made it OEM along with the Black and Decker Freewire  line of automation controls.

[gkamieneski]

All of mine have an UL Listed 340F on it and if it has a transmitter a FCC Database number starting with B4S.
My Radio Shack 49-1000 Security consoles sensors and remotes also have the same B4S starting ID. As X10 made it OEM along with the Black and Decker Freewire  line of automation controls.

Brian, are you speaking of your WS469 units? thx.

[Brian H]

No I was speaking about the X10 modules I have. None of them are recent production modules. They have a UL Listed 340F designation and an E63636 file ID on them.
So do my X10 made Black and Decker Freewire  modules. If you can find the E63636 file on the UL Site. It lists the device part numbers they made. Including the X10, X10Pro, Radio Shack, Heathkit, IBM. To name some I remember off hand.

I have never seen the new WS469. So I don't know if the latest module where added to the UL File.
It is also possible they maybe doing what some other manufacturers are doing. Using a less costly alternate approval company like ETL.

Someone with a WS469 maybe able to provide more information found on its label.