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[Tuicemen]

Several of these low priced Pi clone boards will work.
I used a Pi Zero W which has Bluetooth and Wi-Fi on board.
This mod works with any build version of the CM15A, although the newer boards allow for more space giving more possible mount locations or a bigger board.
This mod means CM15 doesn't need batteries nor does it need to be connected to your PC ever again(although you could if you wished)
This mod requires no soldering skills, your only modifying the case.
The case mod takes about 1/2 to 1 hour.
The Pi Zero costs under $10, the 5 volt 2.5 amp power supply actually cost me a bit more.
Since the Pi runs Linux any HA software which supports the CM15A will work. Add the HA-Bridge (software) to the mix and your CM15A also becomes a X10 hub capable of handling Alexa requests.
A full write up with pictures can be found here:
http://forums.tuicemen.net/index.php?topic=1291.0
This setup is out performing the CM15 AHP combo for me so far.
Sure the WM100 has better  PLC strength but this does all 266 X10 addresses as well as X10 security codes.
I can access from anywhere and don't need a phone app though most of the available softwares has one available.
 

[Tuicemen]

I installed Home Genie Ver 1.1 beta r525 on this although there are newer versions available.
It has been running well now for over a month at my city place.
AHP hasn't been in use since and I've yet to miss it as Home Genie is doing every thing it did plus a few more adds like integrating my IP cameras into my setup.
I disabled the desktop load to help speed things up as this board doesn't have loads of memory but then no Pi does.
 

[Tuicemen]

There seems to be  a fair bit of interest in this mod from emails I've received.
Many stated they have an old Pi board on hand but these won't fit inside the current case even if you have a newer CM15 with no RF daughter boards.

Noam brought up an idea I'd not thought of. Since this mod is basically a upper half case modification a 3D printer could be used to create a new upper half of the case. this could include openings for all the ports. Sadly I don't have one.
  Since the  pi3 3b, and 3b+  (and maybe the 2 boards) can all utilize the same case there may be a market for just a new upper case half.

The reason the larger boards will not fit in the current case is the placement of the CM15 transformer inside.
Adding to the depth of the upper half of the case would allow a larger Pi board.

[Noam]

Noam brought up an idea I'd not thought of. Since this mod is basically a upper half case modification a 3D printer could be used to create a new upper half of the case. this could include openings for all the ports. Sadly I don't have one.
  Since the  pi3 3b, and 3b+  (and maybe the 2 boards) can all utilize the same case there may be a market for just a new upper case half.

Thinking about it some more over the weekend, I suspect it would be easier to 3D print a spacer ring that would go between the existing front and back halves of the shell. It would easier / cheaper / faster to print, and could be (relatively) easily adapted to a thinner version for the Pi zero, or a thicker one for the Pi 2/3. It could even be printed in multiple colors (white to match, or something else to provide contrast). You would need longer screws to replace the originals, but they could go through the same holes.

I don't (yet) have a 3D printer of my own, so I haven't tried to design anything like this in CAD yet. But given the abundance of 3D printed designs already out there for the Pi Zero, and 2/3, it might be possible to adapt one of those (with the proper openings and screw locations already laid out correctly), and stretch it to become the shell spacer for this.

[Tuicemen]

It would be cheaper to print just the ring but with out removing  the battery compartment of the cm15 the spacer ring would need to be much deeper then actually needed. The CM15 doesn't need batteries with a Pi inside so the battery compartment is wasted space.

I've ordered a cheep white case for a Pi 3 which I had planned on adding to a CM15 for a 3B+ mod. I might getaway with just adding half the case to the top of the upper case shell of the CM15.



 

[Noam]

It would be cheaper to print just the ring but with out removing  the battery compartment of the cm15 the spacer ring would need to be much deeper then actually needed. The CM15 doesn't need batteries with a Pi inside so the battery compartment is wasted space.

I've ordered a cheep white case for a Pi 3 which I had planned on adding to a CM15 for a 3B+ mod. I might getaway with just adding half the case to the top of the upper case shell of the CM15.

Cutting out the back of the battery compartment *would* certainly free up that space, would keep the look of the front shell "stock" on the outside, and would still allow the use of the original screws to attach it. At the same time, though, there are no connections (that I can tell) being made to the guts of the CM15A. So, attaching a Pi case to the front of the CM15A would be a another way to go (and that's what I was planning on doing, if I ever find the time to play with this).
Printing a new front shell would probably be the most space-efficient way to do it, but would require more filament than printing a slightly thicker ring. And as I understand it, large flat things are more difficult to print without distortion than things that don't have as much surface area on the bed. I also think that designing it as a ring might be an easier task.

But that decision is probably best left to each person who decides they want to do this mod. :-)

[Tuicemen]

A Pi zero ring would allow access to all ports.
 The only issue I see with doing any ring print for the larger boards  is the inability to easily get at the SD card slot because of how the board has to sit .
However the only reason you would need to get at the SD card slot is to replace the card its self.
A pi case for any of the models will mount to the front of the CM15A this was my original idea for ordering the 3B white case (Mine is currently black)

[bkenobi]

I have no dog in the fight, but I'd recommend considering printing a new cover.  The reason is that you can then add attachment points for the RPi to the new shell, you can have openings (maybe even snap off or replaceable) for access to ports, and it would look sleeker.  The second choice for me would be either removing the battery compartment divider.  I suppose if I didn't want to cut the case up yet, I'd also consider simply using the ink pen spacer approach (maybe find something nicer looking though).

[Tuicemen]

I have no dog in the fight, but I'd recommend considering printing a new cover.  The reason is that you can then add attachment points for the RPi to the new shell, you can have openings (maybe even snap off or replaceable) for access to ports, and it would look sleeker.

If I had access to a 3D printer this would be my first choice. This way you could add ventilation slots too as the newer Cm15As run a bit hotter then the older ones with the daughter boards, I suspect the 3B+ also runs hotter then the 3 or 2 PIs.
 

[Noam]

I have no dog in the fight, but I'd recommend considering printing a new cover.  The reason is that you can then add attachment points for the RPi to the new shell, you can have openings (maybe even snap off or replaceable) for access to ports, and it would look sleeker.

If I had access to a 3D printer this would be my first choice. This way you could add ventilation slots too as the newer Cm15As run a bit hotter then the older ones with the daughter boards, I suspect the 3B+ also runs hotter then the 3 or 2 PIs.
 

After reading the comments after my initial idea of the 3D printed ring, and after I took a look at one of my spare CM15A units last night, I want to change my vote in favor of the "replacement front cover" idea - over my original "spacer ring" one.  That's just a better idea for a lot of reasons.

Since I don't have a 3D printer (or someone to design the cover for me), I'll probably end up using one of the spare Pi 2's I have, taking an off-the-shelf case, and sticking it to the front of the CM15A -with the USB/Network end facing down. I just have to find the time to do it :-)

[originalevil]

Thanks for sharing this, Tuiceman!

I've got a 3D printer but am no good at the design side, or else I'd take a stab at it.

Sure makes me want to order a Zero to toy with, though!

[Tuicemen]

For $7 I figured I can't find cheeper entertainment. It kept me busy figuring out the how to part, putting it together didn't take long but the play time with the software continues to provide me something to do on rainy days 

[Noam]

For $7 I figured I can find chreper entertainment. It kept me busy figuring out the how to part..putting it together didn't take long but the play time with the software continues to provide me something to do on rainy days 

Do you have a good tutorial you can share for the software side? I'll be putting it on a Pi2 (most likely), so I likely won't be able to use an existing image with the software already installed.

[Tuicemen]

I started a thread on my forum Pi & HomeGenie for Dummies
( http://forums.tuicemen.net/index.php?topic=1292.0 )
First post covers the initial install of HomeGenie On a PI.
The next post has a link to an old how to, Mike has put together a more detailed Publicly editable how to which includes setting up other things for Homegenie on Windows. I believe it also includes the original how to.
I'll update the thread to include a link to Mikes How to.
 

[Tuicemen]

Since the Pi Zero W proved to be such a successful pair up I've been looking for another board with possibly more power that will fit in an existing CM15A
Today I think I may have found one.
https://www.hardkernel.com/main/products/prdt_info.php?g_code=G145326484280&tab_idx=1
The Odroid C0 is more expensive then the Zero W and also will require some soldering skills as the USB ports are not populated but allows for 1 or 2 (full sized)USB ports. It also has much more memory but no onboard Wi-fi.
It has the option for an emmc which is much faster then a sd card if you wished.
I believe the CM15 will power this directly as the battery option is less then the power supply route and the CM15a available DC is about halfway between the two voltages. the board has a power step up converter so that should help.
The $1.80 connector pack should supply the needed USB extras Plus.

Although the Pi Zero W runs my HA setup just fine some may wish the extra power this board would supply.
It also may allow for a cleaner looking finished conversion project. (provided one has some soldering skills)