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[DCUNY]

I recently installed an on-demand hot water recirculation system.  The vendor of the system sells a wireless x10 solution that turns the recirc system on when there is motion upstairs.

I have the following components:
MS16A wireless motion detector
TM751 transciever
UM506 universal module

The “dry” connectors from the UM506 go to the recir pump controller.  I’ve got everything working.

However the UM506 module which is under the bathroom sink has a loud “click” every time it activates.  You can hear it all over the upstairs. 
This is not going to work in a bedroom area.

I read on a board to try a PLM04 lamp module, and wire an AC relay from the outlet of the lamp module.  I’ve not been able to get that to work.  I’ve tried both solid state and mechanical relays.  Apparently the relay is not seeing 120 volts from the lamp module, so it won’t close.

This should be simple.  Relocating the UM506 would be a huge problem as I don’t have an easy way to run the wire from the “dry” terminals of the UM506.

How can I solve this with a wireless solution?  If I need to do something other than X10 I can probably do that if I know what to try.

Thanks in advance for any help you can provide

[JeffVolp]

What kind of pump is it?

I installed a Grundfos 120VAC recirculation pump for our hot water faucets 15 years ago.  It cycles on for 70 seconds every 15 minutes from 6AM to 11:30PM to keep instant hot water available at all faucets.  At 70 seconds I could detect a slight rise in temperature in the return pipe.  (The entire loop is well insulated.)  The 120V line from the pump plugs directly into a lamp module, which turns the pump on and off.  This has been running for 15 years without a problem.

Jeff

[dave w]

It can be a little dicey to power a 120 V coil relay from a lamp module, although I do it (do as I say, not as I do).  Anywho assuming your Lamp Module is good it may be the relay isn't a large enough load for the triac in the LM to trigger. As a test try adding a 7watt incandescent night light in parallel with the relay coil. Does the relay now work? If so try a different relay such as. http://www.goldmine-elec-products.com/prodinfo.asp?number=G20836, or https://www.amazon.com/Uxcell-a13070300ux0611-HH52P-General-Purpose/dp/B00E1L86EQ.
If the night light test did not work then another approach is use a different relay module such as the Smarthome I/O Linc which has a very quiet relay https://www.smarthome.com/i-o-linc-insteon-2450-low-voltage-contact-closure-interface-1-in-1-out.html.
This will accept X10 address coding.
One thing IF you do not use the SmartHome I/O Linc:  inductive devices like transformers, motors, and relays do not like the  distorted waveform the LM outputs, even at 100% ON. So when you find a relay that works, energize it using the LM and leave on for an hour or so, while checking to see if the relay is unduly warm (should be not much more than room temp). 

[Brian H]

The mentioned 2450 I/OLinc has a quiet relay in it. Also has a separate sensor input for a dry contact connection also.
It should accept an X10 primary address programmed into it.
Here is the full manual if you care to look at it. http://cache.insteon.com/pdf/2450.pdf

[DCUNY]

What kind of pump is it?

I installed a Grundfos 120VAC recirculation pump for our hot water faucets 15 years ago.  It cycles on for 70 seconds every 15 minutes from 6AM to 11:30PM to keep instant hot water available at all faucets.  At 70 seconds I could detect a slight rise in temperature in the return pipe.  (The entire loop is well insulated.)  The 120V line from the pump plugs directly into a lamp module, which turns the pump on and off.  This has been running for 15 years without a problem.

Jeff

It’s a Readytemp recirculator.  We have a tankless water heater and the Grundfos won’t work with tankless because it doesn’t create enough flow.  The Readytemp installs under the most distant sink.  Hence the hoops I’m trying to jump through to get a quiet control under the sink to turn it on when motion is detected.

The Readytemp uses a different valve setup, and we get almost no warm / hot water into the return pipe, which is in our case is our cold water line.

[DCUNY]

It can be a little dicey to power a 120 V coil relay from a lamp module, although I do it (do as I say, not as I do).  Anywho assuming your Lamp Module is good it may be the relay isn't a large enough load for the triac in the LM to trigger. As a test try adding a 7watt incandescent night light in parallel with the relay coil. Does the relay now work? If so try a different relay such as
If the night light test did not work then another approach is use a different relay module such as the Smarthome I/O Linc which has a very quiet relay
This will accept X10 address coding.
One thing IF you do not use the SmartHome I/O Linc:  inductive devices like transformers, motors, and relays do not like the  distorted waveform the LM outputs, even at 100% ON. So when you find a relay that works, energize it using the LM and leave on for an hour or so, while checking to see if the relay is unduly warm (should be not much more than room temp).

Thanks for the quick reply.  I’ll look and see if I have a suitable nighlight to do the test.  These are the mechanical relays I’ve tried so far with no success.  For some reason I am unable to put links in my message:

UXcell JQX-13F AC 110V Coil 8 Pin 2NO 2NC Power Relay w PTF08A Base

URBEST HH52P DYF08A Plastic Coil DPDT Black Clear Blue110/120V AC 8 Terminals

I will take a look at the Smarthome unit.  If I wanted to switch everything to Smarthome what components would I need?  I currently have the X10 transciever out in the garage because it also makes a loud click that is a problem.

I will advise when I’ve been able to do the nighlight test. 
Thanks very much

[DCUNY]

The mentioned 2450 I/OLinc has a quiet relay in it. Also has a separate sensor input for a dry contact connection also.
It should accept an X10 primary address programmed into it.

Thanks, I will take a look.

[Brian H]

I don't think Smarthome has an X10 transceiver other than the one you now have. That clunks.

The Smartenit EZX10RF module is still available. It is a 256 address {all 16 House Codes and 16 Unit Codes} X10 RF to power line transceiver. That you can also map 20  X10 addresses to Insteon if desired. It has no internal relay in it so no clunks. https://smartenit.com/product/ezx10rf/. Manual in resources tab. My original model did have one issue. It received an All Units Off and sent a All Lights Off back on the power lines. By now {been years} it should have been corrected.

Smarthome have discontinued their X10 clones. All their modules are Insteon. One of the early selling points was you could also put an X10 Primary Address in them and some also a second X10 Scene Address. They no longer list X10 support but many still accept the Primary Address. Like the 2450 I/OLinc.

[Tuicemen]

Authinix began replacing the relays in the X10 modules with much quieter ones.
I'm unsure if this modification has made it to the UM506 or simular module. I emailed the owner  regarding this and will let you know his reply.
 

[DCUNY]

Authinix began replacing the relays in the X10 modules with much quieter ones.
I'm unsure if this modification has made it to the UM506 or simular module. I emailed the owner  regarding this and will let you know his reply.
 

Thank you, I appreciate it.

[Tuicemen]

@DCUNY
Apparently the next batch of UM506 modules is to have the silent relay and AGS.
That explains why they are currently on sale.
I'm told this next shipment of improved modules is due to arrive end of July.
 

[dave w]

These are the mechanical relays I’ve tried so far with no success.  For some reason I am unable to put links in my message:

UXcell JQX-13F AC 110V Coil 8 Pin 2NO 2NC Power Relay w PTF08A Base

URBEST HH52P DYF08A Plastic Coil DPDT Black Clear Blue110/120V AC 8 Terminals

I will take a look at the Smarthome unit.  If I wanted to switch everything to Smarthome what components would I need? 

I'm surprised the JQX-13F did not work on the LM. I did not see what the col resistance was, but the size of the relay coil and the armature spring make me think it should have worked.

Good question about what else would be needed for the I/O Linc if you use it. I forgot to mention that the I/O Linc relay contacts are only good for 30V 5amp max. The HH52P 24V relay can be used. The SmartHome I/O Linc would just activate the HH52P 24V relay. What kind of 24V power supply were you using with the LM? If it was a switching supply it may be why it did not work on the Lamp Module.

[Brian H]

I suspect there are more than one Chinese vendor making the JQX-13F
Found this in a search.

The I/OLinc is rated at 5 Amps 30 or less voltage as pointed out. The UM506 is 5 Amps 24 Volts or with special wiring precautions of 120 volts 15 amps. The I/OLinc should be fine if the kit is not trying to control 120 volts through the UM506.

[DCUNY]

@DCUNY
Apparently the next batch of UM506 modules is to have the silent relay and AGS.
That explains why they are currently on sale.
I'm told this next shipment of improved modules is due to arrive end of July.
 

Thanks for the info.  They didn’t happen to mention if the transciever would get a quieter relay did they?

[Tuicemen]

Originally I was told all modules would get the quiet relays. These upgrades would happen when the module stock needed replenished, the only module I asked about was the UM506.
However the TM751 should only click on a unit #1 signal of the house code it is set to you shouldn't be using this unit number for this operation.
If your looking to replace your TM751 you should look for a better transceiver like the RR501 or CM15A.

Since both the TM751 and RR501 are on sale right now I suspect these do not have the new relays yet.