Print

Please login or register.
1 Hour 1 Day 1 Week 1 Month Forever
Login with username, password and session length

[bkenobi]

My PUD has instant rebates on LED lighting (as discussed in past threads).  They currently have shop lights at $22 OTD.  These are the non replacable double tube style lamps rated at 42W and produce 4000 lumen.  Thats about half the energy of a standard shop light and similar light (2400 lumenx2=4800lumen).

I'm only looking because my current bulb supply will eventually run out and ballast and tombstones do have to be maintained.  A pair of bulbs or a ballast are about the same price, so this seems like a good option as they fail.

That said, I am seeing a hit on signal strength with a single fixture in my testing.  My XTBM shows 8.24 without the light but 6.50 when turned on.  If I lose 2v with a single fixture, am I screwed if I install a dozen (for instance)?

[brobin]

I'd suggest adding a filter or hash choke to the lighting circuit.  If you have a filter now you can test to see if it helps. 

[bkenobi]

I can test with a SmartHome filter.  Assuming it works, I won't want to use it though.  What kind of a filter/choke would fit inside a lamp?

[Brian H]

Do you know the input current rating of the fixture?
So a choke or wired in filter can safely handle the input current.

[Brian H]

You may want to read this file from Simply Automated. For some information.
http://www.simply-automated.com/documents/452-0053-001_RevE_ZNF10A_User_Guide_130613.pdf

The ZNF10A-W is a wired in capacitor and coil. Supposed to work with all automation protocols. As it suppresses anything above 4KHz.

There is a thread on Cocoontech on what parts are in the kit as it is not too cheep.
http://cocoontech.com/forums/topic/21991-upb-filter-parts-lc-values/

[JeffVolp]

I'd suggest adding a filter or has choke to the lighting circuit.  If you have a filter now you can test to see if it helps.

Even filters will add some load to X10 signals:  http://forums.x10.com/index.php?topic=30226

So you have to be careful which one you use.

Jeff

[Noam]

I bought one of those LED fixtures from Costco, to replace a fluorescent shop light I had that finally dies (I assume it was the ballast - I didn't bother the check).
The one complaint I have about it is the 3/4 of a second delay when powering it up from a switched outlet (which is how I use it). The old fluorescent fixture comes on instantly (I have one of each in my shop, and two of the old fluorescent ones in the laundry room). I had tried an LED shop light from Home Depot (which was more expensive than the costco one), and it had a longer delay. I haven't noticed any issues with my signal strength, but I also don't have an XTBM (I keep thinking I should buy one, but I really don't need one very often).

[bkenobi]

I only turned it on 2x but wasn't watching for a delay.  Interesting that LED would be slower than fluorescent since that requires a startup and LED just turn on.

[BackAgain]

A 'delay' like that would not even be noticeable.

I don't know what is it a 'PUD", but Rural King has a similar unit, 2 for $50.00  I haven't tried them since I don't need them at the moment.  I went with round recessed LED units that use even less power .. around 10w or so.

[brobin]

I can test with a SmartHome filter.  Assuming it works, I won't want to use it though.  What kind of a filter/choke would fit inside a lamp?

Read Jeff Volp's article on this at: jvde.us/x10/x10_cfl.pdf

When I added an LED pool light to my system it caused problems when it was on so I tried a hash choke that I found at Electronics Parts Outlet in Houston (epohouston.com). I have no idea what the values are but it's pretty beefy at 1" wide and 3/4" diameter, weighing 1.52 ounces so I tried it with complete success.  Been working fine for over a year now.  They had a big box of them selling for less than $2 apiece so I grabbed some more the next time I was there.  I've googled the numbers on it but no joy. 

PM me if you'd like me to send you one. I don't think EPO does mail order but I'll be back in Houston in a couple of weeks and can buy more for anyone who wants them.

[bkenobi]

Does this approach (putting a choke across load to neutral) require 1 per fixture, or 1 per light run?  If I install these, I'd expect to have several on a switch and I'd want to add the filter in the switch box if possible.

[brobin]

Note that the choke is placed in SERIES on the load side - NOT across load to neutral which would cause fireworks !  One per circuit should be sufficient but since I don't know the rating and they're so cheap, I'd probably install one in each fixture.  If it's any guide, the pool light has 24 LED's drawing 35 watts.  You could try one in the switch box and see if it gets too warm.

[bkenobi]

I ended up returning those lights because I found a better alternative.  My local hardware store had a huge stack of single "bulb" LED fixtures by the door for $4.99.  I tested them and confirmed that they cause no issue for X10.  I installed them in my shop and found that they produce at least as much light as my double bulb fixtures.  So, I removed 1000W of fluorescent tubes and replaced them with 300W of LED.  They produce no buzz.  They are brighter.  They turn on quicker.  They produce less signal degradation for X10.  They turn on pretty quick (faster than fluorescent).  The ballast won't go bad nor will the bulbs flicker.

I was planning on installing these in my kitchen, but they have plugs on the end and the current fixtures are wedged in a 4' wide opening.  Also, these aren't designed to be hard wired so I'd have to install several boxes.  Oh, and since they produce as much light as a double tube fixture, they would probably be blinding in the kitchen.  I suppose I could try installing 3 the other direction and installing a single 4x box but I think I'll look for another solution.

If I remember, I'll try to find the brand on the fixtures so others know that they work great with X10.

[Brian H]

Thank you for the update.
Glad you found something that is working fine.

I bought some at a local vendor. Ocean State Joblot. My tests show they are very bright. 5000K color temperature. No X10 effects. Only thing mine emitted some RF interference. I am in the country with the FM stations far away so their weak signals got some added noise in them.

[bkenobi]

I forgot to look at the box for the lights last night.  But, I was thinking my best option for the kitchen is to just replace the tube.  Can anyone speak to an LED option that won't adversely affect X10 in a 4' tube that simply plugs into the tombstone?  I'm assuming I'll have to rewire them to remove the ballast, correct?