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[wickvegs]

Thanks for letting me know what the Test switch actually does.

"Are your lights using an X10 wall switch"

We have just two of them they are controlling and they use the XPSS-W.  What is interesting (or I am missing), there is no place on the XPSS-W to set a code. 

I see on the X10 site "This switch is a companion switch and it requires a master switch for operation.".  So the other light switch is the master?  I have not removed that one to look at.  That is the one that is actually working when I press Test.

[Brian H]

I have used X10 before for many years. That is why I have X10 information as I like to tinker and experiment with X10.

I moved on the Insteon. It was backward compatible with X10. So I could use both. Latest Insteon devices have officially dropped X10 support but some still do.

No X10 switches.  The two wall switches I have in use. Are Insteon 2476S relay type switches. The rest of the controlled devices are plunged in Insteon 2456S3 relay modules. All with an optional Primary X10 addresses added to them. So my X10 remotes can also control them. I was using CFL bulbs and now LED bulbs. That don't always play well with dimmers.
 
They have no dials all programmed by power line commands and set button actions.

I still have some X10 remotes. Like a HR12A Palm Pad, that can do all sixteen unit codes in one house code.
The Insteon ones are not my cup of tea.

Using a WGL V572 all 256 X10 address RF transceiver. Feeding into an XTB-IIR coupler repeaters TW523 emulation input. It blasts X10 signals all over the house and also respects Insteon signals by not stepping on the tail end of a message. It thought was an X10 message.

UDI ISY994i Insteon controller (can also do X10 though feature not used right now) with a few added options like the unused A10/X10 firmware upgrade. It is my main controller and does scenes and programs stored in it and links in each Insteon Module.

Correct. The XPSS-W is a companion switch. It controls a main X10 switch that has the load connected to it through a traveler wire between them. It is the one that the House Code and Unit code dials is set on and has the load connected to it.

If I want to use Insteon in a multi way setup. All  of them are the same type with no companion switches. You can link them to each other and have either one control the other one. One may have the load on it and the other one may have its load wire capped off and not used.

[wickvegs]

I was now able to get the PF284 to test successfully from it's original location.

But I hooked up the Carlisle drive alert and even though the alert bell goes off in the house, the lights do not go on. 

So I am assuming I have a problem with the Carlisle drive alert controller - correct?

[Brian H]

If the Test button on the PF284 can now control the lights from where it is being used. Then it does sound like a Cartelll issue.
If the Test button does not work where the PF284 is being used. You still have power line signal issue.

Exactly where are the wires to the PF284 connected inside the Cartell console?
#11 NC,#12 COM and #13 NO are the auxiliary relay output. I would expect those are the terminals used. #12 and #13 with the PF284 set to Input B.
If they are using some other output. Tell us what it is.

[wickvegs]

Yes - when I press the Test button on the PF284, the lights come on. When I release they go off.

The wires from the Cartell appear to be coming from positions 7 and 8.   

The issue I see is it does not appear that there is anything service-able on the Cartell.  No fuses, etc.

[Brian H]

Is the Cartell console the CF-2C linked in the start of this thread?
I downloaded and am using that manual for my information.

If it is a CF-2C. You may get lucky and find a board lay out sticker on it or the enclosure.

Those are not the correct terminals for a auxiliary relay output.
7 is Photocell input. Used to set the operation of the Flood Light output.
8 is Main-On. Manual does not give much data on it. Like is it a input to control something or an output.
Try 12 COM and 13 NO. With the PF284 on Input B.
 
Mode 1 if you want the lights to go On and stay On if the addresses of the switches matches the House Code and a different Unit code in the PF284.

Mode 3 switches House Code and Unit code match the PF284s House and Unit Code. On and back off after the console times out.

[wickvegs]

I got it sorted out and it is working again.

I Can not thank you enough for your knowledge and patience in helping me with this. 

It has been installed in my house for the last 20 years and I had really no idea how it all fit / worked together.  Now I have a much better understanding.

Thanks again!!!

[Brian H]

You are welcome.
Good to see you have the system working like you wanted it to do.