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[gene charney]

Need to control an above-ground pool pump -
120V. 13A. Is there a module that will do
it? I have all kinds of X10 control units.

[dave w]

X10 Pro - XPFM will do it (barely). Or use
an Appliance module or a Universal module to
control a larger relay which then controls
the pump.

[roger1818]

The X10 Pro - XPS2 is rated for 20A and 2HP
motors.

[dave w]

Roger, XPS2 is a 240V switch. It won't help
Gene.

[roger1818]

Dave: Whoops! You are correct.  I was
confusing it with the XPS3, which is a
120V/20A switch (though it doesn’t say how
many HP it will handle but it is probably
1HP).  Unfortunately the XPS3 responds to
AllLightsOn, which could be a problem for Gene.

Another option might be the XPR, which, like
the XPS3, is rated for 120V/20A but it
doesn't respond to AllLightsOn.  Or there are
the ACT RS101, RS114 and RB104, which are
rated for 20A/1HP at 120VAC (the RB104 is
actually rated for 30A resistive and can work
with either 120 or 240VAC).

[ohmarty]

I just use a AM466 3-pin appliance module to
control my 1hp pool pump. It's been working
for almost 3 years. It turns the pool pump
ON at 8AM and OFF at 8PM. No problems.

[roger1818]

The AM466 is only rated for 1/3 HP, but if it
works for you, that is cool (although it is
probably getting hot).  I once used a 2-pin
appliance module to turn on a large coffee
percolator, and the module melted and the
percolator plug was stuck to the module.  The
module still works, but it looks a little funny.

[jpsigns]

gene if you need a power requirement larger
than what the switch is able to handle you
can always add a contactor with the
contacts rated at the ampacity needed. just
hard wire a switch into the control portion
of the contactor. contactors are available
at any electrical supply houses.

[david oliver]

Gene,

I have the exact application and I solved it
with a contactor, an appliance module and a
standard normally open light switch.
If you just use an appliance module and a
contactor, it takes away the local control
you need to turn the pump on and off when
you need to backflush or vaccumn.  What you
do is wire the light switch in parallel with
the appliance module to the contactor.  That
way you can turn the pump on or off without
having to use am X-10 controller.
One other thing.  The module you use to turn
on the contactor MUST be an appliance module
because it uses a relay to turn on the load
instead of a solid state switch.  The solid
state switch can be latched on when you turn
on the light switch, where as the relay
output won't.  I have a wiring diagram for
it if you would like to have it.

[roger1818]

David:  I think you mean to put the switch in
series with the appliance module.  Putting it
in parallel would create a short circuit
causing sparks to fly and the breaker to pop.

[david oliver]

No, I meant to put the switch in parallel
with the contacts of the appliance module.
If you put it in series both the switch and
the appliance module contacts would have to
be cloase for the contactor to pull in.

[roger1818]

Oh.  You want to manually turn on (enable)
the contactor (and thus the pump).  I thought
you wanted to manually turn off (disable) the
contactor.  Instead of using a switch, why
not put a normally closed push button in
series.  That way when you push and release
the switch, the local control circuitry
should turn the module on.  Better yet, use a
relay wall (such as a WS13A) switch so that
you can manually turn the module on or off
without disabling the module.

[david oliver]

Roger,
All good ideas but using a $12 contactor, a
$13 appliance module and a $1.50 light
switch is the cleanest and cheapest way to
go.  I've used it on my 1.5HP pool pump with
no problems and like I mentioned before, it
gives you the local control you need for
pool maintenance and the automatic control
for scheduled water filtering.

[mike]

David O...Could you post the wiring diagram
or email?

Thanks

[david oliver]

Mike,

I don't think I can post a drawing on this
forum but if you send me your e-mail I would
be glad to send you the wiring diagram.