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Author Topic: Drive over switch?  (Read 82134 times)

TakeTheActive

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Re: Drive over switch?
« Reply #30 on: June 26, 2007, 12:50:33 PM »


...Sorry for the initial large posting of the pictures. In my eagerness to post them I forgot about sizing...

I could only see the left sides of the pictures earlier. The Horizontal Scroll Bar was '8 - X' PgDn's below. :o


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*YOUR* example on how to create TABLES (from the time you were out on disability, racking up all those online hours! :D ) showed *ME* how to do it. ;)


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tinnman357

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Re: Drive over switch?
« Reply #31 on: June 26, 2007, 07:32:52 PM »

Hello All,
       Steve if your still interested the stuff sticking out of your concrete is fiberglass for strength (cheaper than wire but just as strong) and as wear goes on it will disappear. As Dave noted TSP is great for cleaning unless you have a oil or grease soaked in. In that case I would recommend muratic acid to etch the surface, just make sure you have plenty of ventilation and wash the area down good with clean water after you are finished. Sorry guys I'm still learning X10 so I really cannot contribute much there but I do know a wee bit about construction. Just trying to give when I can.
« Last Edit: June 26, 2007, 07:35:11 PM by tinnman357 »
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Boiler

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Re: Drive over switch?
« Reply #32 on: June 26, 2007, 08:45:19 PM »

steven r,

It's a little late in the development game to be proposing this but...

Could you use a 3/8" hose connected to a delta-P switch?  The switches are make/break (although they would require de-bouncing with software) and should be compatible with a contact sensor.

I did a quick search and switches are available from Omega: Omega.com: PCB Mountable Pressure, Vacuum and Differential Switches


It would take a bit of tuning of line length and diameter but I'd think that the impulse of a tire compressing the 3/8" hose would be more than enough to trip a 2 PSID switch.  You could add a blead at the outboard end to refill the line should any "ambient air" escape during the rollover.  The switches are rated for 20X proof pressure (40 psid with no damage) so you have a decent working range.

As an alternative, your could use a HVAC blower stack switch if you have any friends in the business.  These are rather large but very sensitive - I can personally attest to an "insignificant" ice blockage in the exhaust stack tripping the delta-P sensor and shutting down my furnace.  If you're interested I'll get off my lazy duff and look up my furnace spec's.


[TTA Edit: Added description to LINK; added IMAGE.]
« Last Edit: June 27, 2007, 12:25:00 AM by TakeTheActive »
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steven r

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Re: Drive over switch?
« Reply #33 on: June 26, 2007, 10:57:15 PM »

...Could you use a 3/8" hose connected to a delta-P switch?...
Wish I had seen that switch about a year ago when I was trying that approach.  ;)
(See my earlier idea in this topic.)
« Last Edit: June 27, 2007, 12:20:33 AM by steven r »
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steven r

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Re: Drive over switch?
« Reply #34 on: June 27, 2007, 12:12:06 AM »

...Please let me know when you're done....
Done. I posted them in the message before yours. You can have your space back. Thanks again.

Even with 90wpm, some of my posts take over an hour to compose!...
How much of that time is making them so colorful?  ;)
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steven r

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Re: Drive over switch?
« Reply #35 on: June 27, 2007, 12:19:00 AM »

...Steve if your still interested the stuff sticking out of your concrete is fiberglass for strength (cheaper than wire but just as strong) and as wear goes on it will disappear....
It's been over 4 years and I still see the fiberglass. Oh well I really don't care. I'm not trying to eat off the floor, just drive on it.
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Waynemor

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Re: Drive over switch?
« Reply #36 on: July 25, 2007, 11:12:19 AM »

I know I am showing my age here but...
Back when gas stations used to actually have someone come out to fill your car for you, they used to have a rubber tube that was stretched across the area by the pumps and when you drove over it a bell would ring.
These tubes were plugged at the far end and the end inside the building was hooked to a  diaphram that moved when the air pressure in the tube changed.
To build this you could use some rubber tubing hooked to a diaphram from a car from before the electronic ignition days. Then hook up a switch to this and run it to a powerflash unit for the X10 signal.
Now that is what I call a McGyver.
Unfortunately this is the first time I have read this thread so I have not had a chance to contribute until now.
Later,
W
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steven r

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Re: Drive over switch?
« Reply #37 on: July 25, 2007, 11:40:03 AM »

I know I am showing my age here but...
Back when gas stations used to actually have someone come out to fill your car for you, they used to have a rubber tube that was stretched across the area by the pumps and when you drove over it a bell would ring....
That was my original idea but I didn't have the right type of switch for it. Some of the switch suggestions above could work.
The switch I have now is working well. The only drawback I've experienced is that I have to careful to drive into just the right place to hit the button.
Having a drive over switch that spanned about 2 feet would be nice.
« Last Edit: July 26, 2007, 10:46:32 AM by steven r »
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Re: Drive over switch?
« Reply #38 on: July 25, 2007, 10:41:53 PM »

I know I am showing my age here but...
Back when gas stations used to actually have someone come out to fill your car for you, they used to have a rubber tube that was stretched across the area by the pumps and when you drove over it a bell would ring....
That was my original idea but I didn't have the right type of switch for it. Some of the switch suggestions above could work.
The switch I have now is working well. The only drawback I've experienced is that I have to careful to drive into just the right place to hit the button.
Having a drive over switch that spanned about 2 feet would me nice.

Maybe you could salvage or buy a pressure switch like used in many washing machines to tell when the water level is right.
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