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[rrr]

I saw this link on how to defeat local control on an SR227:
http://www.nomad.ee/micros/x10faq.html#q509

Does anyone have any experience with doing this?

Does anyone have a schematic on what's inside of the SR227? (I'd like to see what "cutting pin7" on the IC is really doing)

thanks!

[Dan Lawrence]

Don't bother.  An SR227 has one X10 controlled outlet and one regular outlet in the same package. There is no local control.  You can only turn it on and off by a controller, or the lamp's switch.

Disabling local control is only for lamp modules, not for applicance modules, which the SR227 is.

[roger1818]

Disabling local control is only for lamp modules, not for applicance modules, which the SR227 is.

This isn't true.  Appliance modules do have local control.  I am not sure about the SR227 specifically, but the AM486, the AM466 and the AM14A all have local control.

[Dan Lawrence]

The SR227 is an outlet, and has no local control. It's a mechanical switch. If a lamp is plugged into the X10 controlled outlet and is on and the power goes out, when power is restored, the lamp relights. Two of my living room lights are on a Sr227 and every outage we've had when they are on, those two lights will come on when the power is restored

Our power went out during a hurricane several years ago, and was out for three full days. When the power went out, those two lights were on.  When the power came back on three days later, those two lights were the only ones in the house on.

[Brian H]

Dan; The SR227 has the same mechanical relay in it as a appliance module so it will be in the same state as when power was off. Can you verify if the outlet is off cycling the power switch on the local lamp will not turn it on? Mostly curious as X10 has no data in the single install sheet. I personally think it does not have local control but you can never verify it by the skimpy install sheet.
Thank you for any added data you can provide.

[dave w]

I don't think the SR227 has local control either. It could create a dangerous situation, in that, plugging a device into the SR227 could cause it to unexpectedly turn on when you thought it was off. Or a coffee maker could come back on when the internal thermostat cooled and cycled. Since the instructions say nothing about Local Control it is safe to bet it doesn't

[Oldtimer]

I have had X10 wall outlet modules installed for a number of years.  I don't know if they are the exact same model number you're using or not (I didn't open the outlet up to find out).  Both of them definately have local control, and it comes in handy on a regular basis.

[Dan Lawrence]

The SR227 DOES NOT have local control. I turned off the two lamps that I have plugged in to the controlled outlet OFF with AHP, then tried to turn the two lamps by their local switch. Neither lamp tumed on.

[Oldtimer]

OK my apologies.  Just checked my wall outlet modules out.  They are Radio Shack # 61-2685, probably at least eight years old.  I have no idea what prior X10 number that maps to.  Sorry for the confusion.  By the way if you have one of these and it's started to stutter when you turn it on I can tell you how to repair it.

[TakeTheActive]

Disabling local control is only for lamp modules, not for applicance modules, which the SR227 is.

The super socket is a repackaged appliance module

Source

• Modifying appliance modules for local control
  .
• Defeating local current sensing

[TakeTheActive]

Disabling local control is only for lamp modules, not for applicance modules, which the SR227 is.

This isn't true.  Appliance modules do have local control.  I am not sure about the SR227 specifically, but the AM486, the AM466 and the AM14A all have local control.

Every 2-pin and 3-pin Appliance Module that I've owned (BSR, X-10, RadioShack) has had local control.

[TakeTheActive]

Just checked my wall outlet modules out.  They are Radio Shack # 61-2685, probably at least eight years old.

I've had 3 RS 61-2685s in service for ~15-20 years (you all know how bad I am with estimating years! ), controlling through-the-wall air conditioners, and every one of them has local control.

Without pulling off wall covers and actually examining them, I first checked my SPARES box - I have 1 brand new RS 61-2685 left and it's BEIGE. I also have 1 brand new SR227 in there and it's WHITE.

Personally, I find it hard to believe that X-10 created TWO DIFFERENT VERSIONS of the SUPER SOCKET, but I'm sure that we have enough "Old Geezer's" here to check:

• If your SUPER SOCKET is BEIGE (probably a RS 61-2685), turn it OFF via PLC and then plug and unplug a SWITCHED ON LOAD into the CONTROLLED OUTLET - does it turn ON?
  .
• If your SUPER SOCKET is WHITE (probably an X-10 SR227), turn it OFF via PLC and then plug and unplug a SWITCHED ON LOAD into the CONTROLLED OUTLET - does it turn ON?
  

If anyone has a WHITE RS 61-2685, or a BEIGE X-10 SR227, please let us all know.

Thanks!

By the way if you have one of these and it's started to stutter when you turn it on I can tell you how to repair it.

This: Report on defective supersocket, or something else?

[JimC]

I have a white one and it does have local control. I just checked it. I did not pull of the face plate to check the model number as it is in a location that is difficult to access.

[Charles Sullivan]

To add a little bit more to the confusion:

I just wired up a SR227 Split Receptacle Module (White, Date code sticker 00A03) in a handy box I use for testing things like this.

I plugged in a 100 Watt incandescent lamp and verified correct On/Off operation by sending X10 powerline commands.

I turned the lamp Off and On repeatedly using the rotary switch in the base of this lamp, but the module did NOT switch on.

I then unplugged the lamp, and with the lamp switch in the On position plugged it in again.  This time the module DID switch On.  I repeated this test several times with the same result MOST of the times.  I appeared that jiggling the plug a little when inserting rather than ramming it straight in was better at getting the module to switch on.

I then tried the same test with a 1500 Watt GE Toaster Oven.  The module would NOT switch On if I turned the toaster over On with its own switch, but it would switch On when I plugged in an already-turned-on toaster oven.

Finally, I plugged a plug strip into the module and retested plugging in the lamp, but this time into the plug strip.  The results were the same as plugging the lamp directly into the module, including the effect of  jiggling the plug.  This particular plug strip has a neon bulb pilot light, and so long as there is no load plugged in, the neon bulb remained On when the module was Off, indicating the module is attempting to sense the load.

It would appear that the little bit of arcing when a plug is jiggled into the socket is more effective than a quick clean insertion in causing the module to switch On.

[Brian H]

Thanks for the tests and now more data to think over.