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[EDenney]

I have been battling what I'm sure is a noise and/or signal sucking problem upstairs in my house since the day I purchased my first (and currently only) applicance module and controller.  After troubleshooting the problem (before I ever found the X-10 message boards) it was evident to me that certain devices (I have a plethora of electronic equipment in these two rooms) were interfering with the functionality of the appliance module as well as remote control of it.  Since nearly all of the outlets in these two rooms are apparently all on one circuit, moving something to a nearby outlet wasn't very helpful if at all, and in most cases wasn't even an option, especially with the appliance module. 

I was able to work around the problem for quite some time but the recent addition of a couple indespensable devices has forced the issue.  As a result, I found the X-10 message boards and eventually Roger's article, and decided to purchase some noise filters and a phase coupler for added measure.  I'm confident the phase coupler is not a factor at this point in time but may be down the road when I add additional modules throughout the house).  This brings me to the point of this message; Since the filters are only rated for a certain number of amps, I need to know if it's the input or the output number of amps on the device in question that matters when judging what size filter I need or how many devices can be used with that filter. 

For example, in one room I have two laptops and a number of external devices (hard drives, DVD burners etc.) which all have switching power supplies that have both an input and ouput amp rating on the power supply that varies substantially.  The laptop power supply has an input rating of around 2.6 amps and an ouput rating of around 7.3 amps, so clearly a 10 amp noise filter will handle this device alone, but since I have many devices and want to limit as much noise or signal sucking as possible it's important for me to know which number to go by.  If it's the input that matters then I can put 2 or 3 devices on one filter wheras I'm limited to one device if it's the ouput rating that matters.  At $25 a pop plus shipping for a 10-amp filter, not to mention they're large, unsightly, and apparently block both plug outlets on the wall, you can see why I'd want to use as few as possible.  If anybody knows this answer for SURE, please let me know which number I need to go by (no educated guesses please!).  Also, if you put an excessive load behind the filter (say 11 amps when it's rated for 10), will that instantly blow the fuse, or will it only blow under certain conditions?

Thanks in advance!

[billy]

EDenney,

Use the Input amperage.
Remember if the amperage is not stated,  Amps = Watts divided by Volts.
ie: a wall wart with an input of 15W @ 120 volts would draw a max. of 15/120 = .125 amps.
Also input rating is normally max rating.

[roger1818]

An excellent question!  It is the input current of the devices that you need to look at. 

The amount of electrical power is equal to the voltage times the current so when a transformer steps down the voltage, the current capacity will increase proportionally (though there is some loss in the process).

I don't really reccomend the SmartHome FilterLincs as in my opinion they are overpriced.  I would personaly reccomend getting either the X10 Pro XPPF 5 Amp Plug-in Filter or the ACT AF-120 15 Amp Plug-in Filter.  Automated Outlet caries both of these filters (along with phase couplers) at reasonable prices.  The AF-120 has the added advantage of having a user replaceable fuse (most filters have a fuse that isn't user replaceable).

[EDenney]

An excellent question!  It is the input current of the devices that you need to look at. 

The amount of electrical power is equal to the voltage times the current so when a transformer steps down the voltage, the current capacity will increase proportionally (though there is some loss in the process).

I don't really reccomend the SmartHome FilterLincs as in my opinion they are overpriced.  I would personaly reccomend getting either the X10 Pro XPPF 5 Amp Plug-in Filter or the ACT AF-120 15 Amp Plug-in Filter.  Automated Outlet caries both of these filters (along with phase couplers) at reasonable prices.  The AF-120 has the added advantage of having a user replaceable fuse (most filters have a fuse that isn't user replaceable).

Thank you both for your valuable input and for providing the equation for determining amperage when it's not stated on the device.  Glad to hear it's the input that matters, that will allow me to use 3 or 4 offending devices with a single Filter.  I had already purchased the FilterLincs from AutomatedOutlet.com, simply because they provided very detailed information about the product and specifically referenced the X10 modules, wheras the XPPF didn't have much information (and I didn't like the color on my white walls ).  I had also considered the AF-120 after reading a post on this forum, but the product name and description didn't seem to quite match what I was looking for, so I decided to play it safe and pay a little more for peace of mind with the FilterLincs.  Thank you for the input though.  I still wouldn't get the XPPF personally because of the color, but I will definitely get the AF-120 if I need to purchase any future filters, especially since it's 15 amps for about the same price as a 10 amp FilterLinc.

There was one other question I had asked though that nobody commented on, and that was what would happen if you put more amps behind a filter than it's rated for.  Will it instantly blow if all the devices are running concurrently, or will it only blow under certain conditions such as a spike etc.?  For example (purely hypothetial), if I had a laptop, two external firewire drives, and an external burner on a single power strip that had a total draw of 13 amps and I plugged the power strip into the noise filter rated for 10 amps, would it just instantly blow?  I'm going to make every possible effort to ensure I don't exceed the limit of each filter, but it's good to know what would happen if I accidentally did.

Thanks!
Eric

[Brian H]

The FilterLincs have a soldered in fuse on the PC Board inside the case. I have not checked the rating on it, but I would imagine it is a slow blow type that can accommodate startup surges. The coils inside the FilterLinc are also quite heavy so I doubt they would instantly blow. Long overloads may blow it or a gross overload would probably blow the internal fuse almost instantly. Personally [no concrete data on this] I think the only difference besides price between the 5 amp and 10 amp versions is the fuse insides rating.

Side note the coils in the XPPF are quite thin and if you have ever seen the coil in a lamp module it basically is the same. I would not overload an XPPF very much. Also I don't remember seeing any fuse in that model.

[EDenney]

The FilterLincs have a soldered in fuse on the PC Board inside the case. I have not checked the rating on it, but I would imagine it is a slow blow type that can accommodate startup surges. The coils inside the FilterLinc are also quite heavy so I doubt they would instantly blow. Long overloads may blow it or a gross overload would probably blow the internal fuse almost instantly. Personally [no concrete data on this] I think the only difference besides price between the 5 amp and 10 amp versions is the fuse insides rating.

Side note the coils in the XPPF are quite thin and if you have ever seen the coil in a lamp module it basically is the same. I would not overload an XPPF very much. Also I don't remember seeing any fuse in that model.

Thanks for the feedback and the coil information Brian.

Eric

[roger1818]

The FilterLincs have a soldered in fuse on the PC Board inside the case. I have not checked the rating on it, but I would imagine it is a slow blow type that can accommodate startup surges. The coils inside the FilterLinc are also quite heavy so I doubt they would instantly blow. Long overloads may blow it or a gross overload would probably blow the internal fuse almost instantly. Personally [no concrete data on this] I think the only difference besides price between the 5 amp and 10 amp versions is the fuse insides rating.

I agree with Brian that they probably use slow blow fuses but I wouldn't push the current limit of the filter.  Even if the fuse doesn't blow at first, it will gradually weaken and eventually blow.  I would reccomend at least a 20% buffer between the maximum current and the rated current (i.e. 4A for a 5A filter, 8A for a 10A filter, or 12A for a 15A filter) to allow for surge currents.  I would provide even more of a buffer (50%) for loads that require a large startup current (like motors for example).

Side note the coils in the XPPF are quite thin and if you have ever seen the coil in a lamp module it basically is the same. I would not overload an XPPF very much. Also I don't remember seeing any fuse in that model.

X10 usually uses a thin wire jumper as a fuse in most of their modules and I suspect the XPPF would be the same.

[Brian H]

Yes the whole coil is the fuse