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[Rock]

Using the CM15a and motion sensors(ms16a or ms13a), along with LM14a(2way lamp modules) and wall switches, cause some of my wall switch lights to turn off.  The sensors are set to only control codes G1, M2, M4, M6.  When you move past these sensors quickly (meaning you trigger 2 or more sensors simultaneously), they intermittently turn off code C10 and sometimes C8, C9, and C11.  All motion sensors are set to only control the LM14A's. The C8,9,10,11, are wall switches.

X10 support swapped out the cm15a a few months ago and everything became reliable again.  However, after a few  months of reliability, the PC that was used to setup the cm15a was wiped out, forcing me to reload everything and reconfigure the cm15a.  At this point, the "problem" came back again.  NOTE that the PC is not used to run with the cm15a, only to set it up.  The problem is between the cm15a, motion sensors and two way switches.  Any suggestions.

[steven r]

Can't think of anything off the top of my head. Just some basic starting trouble shooting.

Have you downloaded the latest software? I'm expect since you just reloaded the computer the answer is yes but thought I'd ask since a long awaited software release just happened.

Since you've skipped unit codes on your sensors, I'm assuming the sequential unit code signal isn't a problem.

Any signal noise generators or signal suckers (USPs, TVs, etc.)

Any fluorescence lights?

Are the "ghost signals" showing up on the Activity Monitor?

At the risk of being redundant, I suggest you make sure you have the latest software, clear the CM15A and redownload.

I'll be watching this post. I expect others also will make some suggestions (perhaps more useful).

[Rock]

Thanks for the reply steven_r

The software updates were downloaded.

There is probably every conceivable noise thing in the house.  Most outlets have power strips plugged into them to allow for things like x10 modules, TV's, sharper image air cleaners, lamps etc.  The basement has T8 flourscent lights and there are only three CFL's in the house.  However, remember, after swapping out the cm15a, everything worked OK.  The hardware remains the same.  I ordered another cm15a last night and will wait for it before doing too much else.

I never looked into the extended code thing, but it seems that after reading other forum posts, there might be problems with the function of LM14A's.  If I reverse the motion sensors so that they do not detect motion, everything works OK.  I used different sensors and different addresses without success.  And yes, I even have two ups's connected to computers in the basement.

Finally, using the cm15a as a timer works great.  adding motion sensor, kills the reliability.  I cannot use macros or consider using more sensors or any cameras until I find stability in this product. 

Thanks in advance for reading all of this.  Rock

[Rock]

Well, the new CM15a arrived two days ago and I removed the existing one and downloaded the existing configuration file into the new one and everything works OK again.  I just do not understand why this happens.  Something must break in the cm15a that prevents the motion sensors from functioning properly.  I even added the Remote Chime and sensor onto the house and it works OK.

Is there someway to lessen the chime noise.  Its too loud.  I taped foam insulation all around it and its still too loud.  I need to add a volume control.  Has anyone soldered a potentiometer in series with the speaker, and if so, what exact type / resistance.

AMR

[KDR]

Take a look here http://www.geocities.com/idobartana/modifying_chime_module.htm#Adding%20volume%20adjustment

Never tried it but they tell you how to do the mod.

[Rock]

I checked out the mods for altering the SC546A Chime to correct the problem of excessive volume when the chime is triggered.  While I haven't tried anything yet, it seems as though the easiest mod was the following.

"Adding volume adjustment
Refer to the schematic and locate R13, which is the resistor that connects to the positive terminal of the piezzo buzzer. Desolder it and replace with a 5K potentiometer."

The schematic in the link is for a SC546 and not for the SC546A which I have.  However, if a 5K potentiometer works for one, it should work for the other.

Thanks for the links.

AMR

[TakeTheActive]

...The schematic in the link is for a SC546 and not for the SC546A which I have.  However, if a 5K potentiometer works for one, it should work for the other.

Absolutely!

Replacing a 5K resistor with a 5K potentiometer works in *ANY* situation!

UPDATE:

Is it because of the time (EDT?) or am I just "too dense", but, WHERE'S R13??? 

• Adding Volume Adjustment
  .
• Schematic - Chime Module SC546

Which 'component' is the piezzo buzzer?

[-Bill- (of wgjohns.com)]

After opening up my SC546A I am sorry to tell you that it is an almost totally different animal than the SC546 as pictured in those links.

For one thing the A model only uses one IC where the older model used two.

I haven't pulled the sticker off the IC in my A model, but I'm guessing it is either a custom IC, a programmable controller (PIC), or possibly both.

Looks like it might be an interesting hack though, especially as I want to use the basic X10 interface to trigger a different audio circuit.