I can't control new light switches added

[Oldtimer]

What kind of wire was the 50 foot length and how was it stored during the test?  If it was coiled up tightly that could have affected the results.

[KDR]

What kind of wire was the 50 foot length and how was it stored during the test?  If it was coiled up tightly that could have affected the results.

It was #14-2 with ground. It was semi coiled but not tight. (loose 24" coil or there abouts). There are other things that could also effect it in a house setup. Tarnished connections would add to signal drop and/or noise. I don't believe for a minute that my CM15A is tuned to peak performance and output  Infact have one outlet out on my porch that NO X10 anything will work in it.. I have to redo the wall its in and will run new wiring in that wall when I do remodel it. I suspect its very dirt. (Its on my list) Problem being as a home owner my list is never ending.

And now with the weather turning cold and snow starting to fly... the dogs want to play. They know its sled time!

[TakeTheActive]

Not wishing to Ass-U-Me anything (Thanks Duck69 ):

• 
  
  ...I moved my 751 to an outlet on the same circuit and nothing... ...I kept the 751 (code K[/b]) in the same outlet as before...

  
  For the experiment, did you change the HouseCode on the TM751 to "L"?
  .

• 
  
  ...I programmed a new Eagle Eye (it's now dark outside)...

  
  EagleEye, PalmPad, Keychain Remote, etc... - no difference (PLC / RF Transmitters, Receivers and Transceivers  (Read 1591 times)).
  .
• Repeating (3rd request): Do you own a WIRED CONTROLLER?
  .

• 
  
  ...I kept the 751 (code K) in the same outlet as before, set up a quick macro to activate an also new chime, plugged into another circuit and without fail, the macro worked, activating the chime when motion was detected.  I think I now know that the outlets and the 751 are working...but still no lights...Uggh!

  
  But, you already established that fact on Day #1:
  
  

  
  
  ...I can also control another set of outside lights using my remote and a 751...

As unlikely as it seems, your current troubleshooting seems to point to 2 *DEAD* WS467s. 

Can you bring 1 WS467, the TM751 and ?PalmPad? down to your workshop and wire them up to a 100 Watt incandescent bulb, all on one outlet strip? 

IMO, you need to establish whether or not the WS467s are functioning.

[Puck]

As unlikely as it seems, your current troubleshooting seems to point to 2 *DEAD* WS467s. 

Along that line of thinking... it's a long shot but an easy test:

In AHP, make the following addressed switches and try them:

L13
M4
M5
M13

(This quick test will make sure your WS467 house & unit code switches aren't open.)

[TakeTheActive]

Along that line of thinking... it's a long shot but an easy test:

In AHP, make the following addressed switches and try them:

L13
M4
M5
M13

(This quick test will make sure your WS467 house & unit code switches aren't open.)

AFAIK, M13 is "all open", so I can understand M13, ?13 and M?? - what's your logic behind M4 and M5?

[Puck]

... what's your logic behind M4 and M5?

Just an open house code switch... good unit switch. 
Covers all possibilities based on the L3 & L4 settings.

[TakeTheActive]

... what's your logic behind M4 and M5?

Just an open house code switch... good unit switch. 
Covers all possibilities based on the L3 & L4 settings.

Silly me! I would have thought to use M3 & M4.