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[birdzeye]

I can't turn on a 3-pin Appliance Module from AHP on my computer.

It will turn on and off using the HR12A palmpad remote, so I'm assuming I need to control this with RF. Right?

How do I make a Macro to turn this Appliance Module on or off with RF but so that it doesn't loop? I have an RR501 transceiver in the same room as the Appliance Module, and on the same housecode.

[HA Dave]

I can't turn on a 3-pin Appliance Module from AHP on my computer. It will turn on and off using the HR12A palmpad remote, so I'm assuming I need to control this with RF. Right?

You know what happens when we assume. A regular appliance module does not receive RF. Hence... the only reason it isn't getting a PLC from AHP is... your not transceiving that house code on the CM15A (or your using a CM19A). Or... you have a phase, noise, or signal sucking issue.

As a test: Try putting your RR501 in the plug you normally use for the CM15A... that will tell you if its a noise, signal sucker, or phase issue. If the RR501 operates the module... so should the CM15A. If the RR501 doesn't work from that location ether... you have an issue.

As our systems grow... even the modules themselves can cause issues with the system. I wouldn't just give up and start sticking transceivers on the power line. I would first make sure the CM15A settings are set to transceive the appliance modules house code.

[birdzeye]

Dave_x10_L,

In AHP, under Tools>Hardware, I have transceived house codes set to Auto. When set to Auto, the HR12A will turn the appliance module on or off. If I then change the transceived house code to specific house codes, i.e. the housecodes I'm using, the HR12A will only turn on the appliance module but will not turn it off.

When you say I should try plugging the RR501 into the outlet where the CM15A is now, should I still have the CM15A plugged into the outlet?

[birdzeye]

Dave_x10_L,

I just made a macro that sends an RF signal to turn on that appliance module when the trigger is the appliance module's house and unit code ON. This will turn it on from AHP. Works in the same way for OFF.

Why will this work? I don't get it.

[Dan Lawrence]

Appliance and Lamp Modules do not respond to RF signals alone, they need some type of transceiver to convert RF signals to X10 ones.

[HA Dave]

I just made a macro that sends an RF signal to turn on that appliance module when the trigger is the appliance module's house and unit code ON. This will turn it on from AHP. Works in the same way for OFF.

Why will this work? I don't get it.

I am not sure I get it ether.

Appliance and Lamp Modules do not respond to RF signals alone, they need some type of transceiver to convert RF signals to X10 ones.

Dan is correct. You could have a TM751 or RR501 plugged in somewhere... a alarm console set on the same code could cause that also.

[birdzeye]

Dan Lawrence and Dave_x10_L,

I have 2 RR501's, each set to a different housecode. I have to have them otherwise none of my modules will work from just using the CM15A alone.

The 3-pin appliance module is one that I purchased from The Source by Circuit City, and it looks identical to the x10 version.

My question now is about the Macro I made to turn the appliance module on and off by sending an RF signal triggered by the appliance modules house and unit code, ON or OFF. How do I get the Macro to stop? Like is there a STOP signal or something?

[HA Dave]

I have 2 RR501's, each set to a different housecode. I have to have them otherwise none of my modules will work from just using the CM15A alone.

Yeah... there isn't any rules about how clean your powerlines need to be... or when you must use a repeater or a phase coupler. I struggled with a phase problem for some time myself. But... X10 is a heck of a lot more fun when it works right.

My question now is about the Macro I made to turn the appliance module on and off by sending an RF signal triggered by the appliance modules house and unit code, ON or OFF. How do I get the Macro to stop? Like is there a STOP signal or something?

If the action of the macro is to send a signal.. it will send it.. and then thats the end of it. If the trigger is the same as the signal sent... then the CM15A is hearing the signal and being triggered again... and again (looping). Delete any looping macro (and empty the AHP trashbin). The trigger and the action can not be the same (A1 as a trigger to send A1.. loops forever).

[birdzeye]

Dave_x10_L,

I plugged the RR501 into the outlet where the appliance module was, and I can't turn the RR501 on or off from AHP either. So I guess it's this particular outlet that's on a different phase??

But I still don't understand how/why an RF signal sent from AHP will reach this outlet but not a PLC from AHP.

Anyways, what should I do? I'd like to be able to time my stereo to come on at a certain time via the 3-pin appliance module, but this outlet is the closest one to the stereo. I don't want to run an extension cord to it!

[dave w]

But I still don't understand how/why an RF signal sent from AHP will reach this outlet but not a PLC from AHP.

Anyways, what should I do?

I know you addressed this to Dave X10, but I was bored so decided to bang keyboard for a while.

When AHP sends the Appliance Module ON or OFF signal, the CM15A puts the signal on the powerlines.
When AHP sends the RF signal it is being picked up and put on the powerlines by one of the RR501's, which either is on the same phase as  the appliance module, or is not on a noisy circuit where the CM15A might be.

Either you need to get the CM15A on the same phase as the Appliance Module, or you need to get a repeater/coupler such as the XTB IIR. If you are using two RR501s each set to different house codes, you must have enough modules in service to justify a repeater purchase.

[birdzeye]

Either you need to get the CM15A on the same phase as the Appliance Module, or you need to get a repeater/coupler such as the XTB IIR. If you are using two RR501s each set to different house codes, you must have enough modules in service to justify a repeater purchase.

Where can I purchase a XTB IIR? Would an XPCR be just as good?

[Dan Lawrence]

For a cheap coupler, if you have an electric stove is to get a .090 capacitor and connect it across the screws in the stove's outlet.  The capacitor passes the X10 signals, but the stove doesn't even know it's there.

[birdzeye]

For a cheap coupler, if you have an electric stove is to get a .090 capacitor and connect it across the screws in the stove's outlet.  The capacitor passes the X10 signals, but the stove doesn't even know it's there.

Thanks but I've got a gas stove that doesn't require electricity. Can you do that with another electric appliance like a frig? Anyways, the XPCR is on sale right now so maybe I'll buy that.

[Brian H]

No frig. It has to be a 220 Volt unit so both Lines are in the same box.

If you go the cap route. Make sure it is rated for an AC Power Line use. Some even with a high enough voltage rating may fry with a constant AC across it. When I had my .1 uf cap. It had full AC ratings and agency approvals.

The XPCR is a coupler repeater. Thought the XTB-IIR has a much higher output to the power line, Than the Leviton; X10Pro and Smarthome repeater couplers. Also I believe the XPCR has been known to start signal fire storms on the power lines. The Smarthome and Levitons are both known to go into fire storms with a CM15A. My ACT CR134 has a switch to not repeat known repeated signals.
I have an XTB-IIR that is now assembled and am going to try it this weekend. As with all the repeaters. The XPCR needs both Lines and Neutral power wires to be connected.

Tutorials on troubleshooting and the XTB  and XTB-IIR here:
http://jvde.us/

You can find the instructions for the XPCR on the X10Pro web site in the users manuals section.
http://www.x10pro.com/

[birdzeye]

Would a PSC01 x10Pro Powerflash Interface help solve this problem?