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Author Topic: Homebase  (Read 16223 times)

jadams77

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Re: Homebase
« Reply #15 on: September 28, 2009, 01:45:53 PM »

I'm not sure if this means anything since the 232 chip is soldered in place but I plugged my test cable into the rj11 (rs232) to check for continuity through the traces.  Each of the 4 leds, red, green, black, and yellow, show continuity on each of the others.  I hope this makes sense. 

I'm lite on electronics, but the chip being in place probably has something to do with this, right?
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dave w

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Re: Homebase
« Reply #16 on: September 28, 2009, 04:29:55 PM »

The chip I labled 9226B does have another number.  MAX232 CPE and you are correct, the traces go to the RJ11 (RS232).  The RJ11 labled 'Port1' is labled AUX on the outside of the case.  The manual does not give any details as to what that is used for.  Following those traces, they go to the 74240.

Is the 232 chip available if I decide to replace it?

Thanks
Much better! "MAX232A - 5V-Powered, Multichannel RS-232 Drivers/Receivers - Maxim Integrated Products"

http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=MAX232ACPE%2B-ND

Yes Digikey has 1500 ready to ship. A whole $5.51 each.

I don't know if the resistance between the wires is normal or not. They should NOT be a direct short.
Pins 8 and 13 are the RS232 inputs One pin of your connector will couple to either pin 8 or 13. Both have internal 5K ohm to ground. Pins 7 and 14 are RS232 outputs, so again 7 or 14 will go to your connector. They have internal pull up resistors. One of your connector leads will go to the ground trace of the Homebase board. Pin 15 of the chip is ground and 16 is 5V power. You might ohm the three capacitors next to the RJ11 connector. They should not be shorted. If they are OK, I would "WAG" the MAX 232 is bad.
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jadams77

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Re: Homebase
« Reply #17 on: September 28, 2009, 06:10:17 PM »

The three capacitors next to the RJ11 connector appear to be ok. 

I've have never removed and replaced an IC before that was soldered to the board.  Any special tricks to this?  What can go wrong?  I should probably order 2 chips, I usually have to do things twice.  Measure twice and cut once never seemed to sink in with me.  I cut it twice and it's still too short!!

Thanks to everyone for your help with this problem, I'll let you know how it comes out.
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Brian H

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Re: Homebase
« Reply #18 on: September 28, 2009, 06:28:03 PM »

The MAX232 uses four capacitors to generate the +12 and -12 volts for the RS232 signals. If the replacement IC still doesn't work. One of the caps may have failed. I believe the standard was 10 uf caps. There is a newer IC that gets away with 1 uf caps.
It is a common IC and I have a few in my stash for projects. ;D
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jadams77

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Re: Homebase
« Reply #19 on: September 28, 2009, 07:48:36 PM »

All 4 caps are 4.7uf 25v.  C3, between pins 1 and 3 shows open.  C4 between 4 and 5 shows 2K ohms, C5 beween 1 and +Vcc shows 220 ohms, and C6 beween pin 6 and  (I think) ground shows 32 ohms.

Is this of any help?

Thanks
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dave w

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Re: Homebase
« Reply #20 on: September 28, 2009, 09:03:40 PM »

All 4 caps are 4.7uf 25v.  C3, between pins 1 and 3 shows open.  C4 between 4 and 5 shows 2K ohms, C5 beween 1 and +Vcc shows 220 ohms, and C6 beween pin 6 and  (I think) ground shows 32 ohms.

Is this of any help?

Thanks
I  don't know if those resistance readings are norm or not. Some seem really low. Try reversing your ohm meter leads after getting first reading. If reading goes up, you are measuring through a forward biased junction in the chip. Reverse the leads to reverse bias the junction and see if reading jumps up.

Brian makes excellent point about the electrolytic caps. They could be your problem also.

As far as changing the chip, I am opening myself to flaming critique, but here goes it; you need a good solder sucker or "solder wick" to remove the solder from the IC holes. A small tip iron, if not temperature controlled, then 40-60  Watts is plenty. 60/40 or 63/37 flux based solder for the new chip. Hemostats or needle nose pliers to remove the old chips legs. Narrow bladed wire cutters to cut the leads.

Note the orientation of the chip and where the pin 1 notch is. Use your cutters to cut the leads of the old IC as close to the body as you can get. From component side of board, grip each cut leg with hemostats or needle nose pliers and flip board over and unsolder that lead while gently pulling on the ‘stats or needle nose. Once you have unsoldered and removed each of the old leads, clear solder from the holes using the solder sucker or the solder wick. If the new IC came in a black bag, or black foam, assuming you do not have an anti static wrist strap, touch the 7805 regulator by the metal tab as you remove the new chip from the foam and insert the new IC in the board. Solder each lead and cut excess lead length.

It isn’t difficult. Just avoid applying too much heat to the solder pads (i.e. no more than a few seconds) as you are unsoldering the old leads or soldering in the new. If you see the board starting to discolor, move on to next pad and come back after the board as cooled a little.
« Last Edit: September 29, 2009, 11:46:30 AM by dave w »
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Brian H

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Re: Homebase
« Reply #21 on: September 29, 2009, 06:08:41 AM »

dave w; No flame here. Sounds like the way I would do it. Unless I was lucky enough to have a Pace Desoldering Station.  rofl
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jadams77

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Re: Homebase
« Reply #22 on: September 29, 2009, 09:28:29 AM »

I re-tested all 4 caps, reversed the leads and checked again.  All have the same reading either way.  I tried a different meter and have the same readings.  Do you think I should try replacing the caps first, one at a time.
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dave w

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Re: Homebase
« Reply #23 on: September 29, 2009, 11:57:07 AM »

Sounds like the way I would do it. Unless I was lucky enough to have a Pace Desoldering Station.  rofl
O-o-h that brings back memories. Loved the sound of that pump when you hit the pedal. Yeah, I'd like a Pace Station also.
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dave w

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Re: Homebase
« Reply #24 on: September 29, 2009, 12:25:32 PM »

I re-tested all 4 caps, reversed the leads and checked again.  All have the same reading either way.  I tried a different meter and have the same readings.  Do you think I should try replacing the caps first, one at a time.
Good question, but hard to answer without being there. How bad do you want to save this Homebase?

Even if you buy two ICs and six caps anticipating gross error you are less that $10 in parts from Digikey or Mouser (unless they have minimum orders). And based on your information, my money is on bad IC or bad caps.

Shotgun the whole mess, you surely will hit the problem.

http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Texas-Instruments/MAX232ECN/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMutXGli8Ay4kBL%2ffHJqIqAyIowkjAql2tA%3d

http://www.mouser.com/Passive-Components/Capacitors/Aluminum-Electrolytic-Capacitors-Leaded/_/N-1b8ie?Keyword=4.7+uf&FS=True

http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?lang=en&site=US&WT.z_homepage_link=hp_go_button&KeyWords=MAX232CPE&x=15&y=17

http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll
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Brian H

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Re: Homebase
« Reply #25 on: September 29, 2009, 12:47:38 PM »

DigiKey use to have a minimum order value or they added a handling fee. Not sure if it was dropped now.
I use Mouser and they have no minimum.  I used them when I messed up my XTBII-R. Yes checked five times and still got the 15 and 35 volt caps in opposite positions  B:(. Jeff's good quality PC runs made safe removal with out cutting them out impossible. A small Mouser order and all was fine again.
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dave w

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Re: Homebase
« Reply #26 on: September 29, 2009, 12:50:55 PM »

I noticed Mouser was considerably less costly compared to Digikey also.
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jadams77

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Re: Homebase
« Reply #27 on: September 29, 2009, 03:42:17 PM »

Thanks guys, I'll be ordering parts.
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