Print

Please login or register.
1 Hour 1 Day 1 Week 1 Month Forever
Login with username, password and session length

[Msradell]

Does anyone make a fluorescent wall switch and is not the Decora (large switch area) style?  All the switches in my home are the traditional small switch style and I don't want to change one or two to get the ability to switch florescent lights.

[Brandt]

Togglelinc from Smarthome

[Dan Lawrence]

BTW, you should not use lamp modules to control Fluorescent lights (or CFLs either). I use a XPFM in the light's case to control it.  If the Fluorescent light is not ceiling mounted, use an appliance module to control it. 

[Brandt]

Yes look for the Togglelinc relay model

[Brian H]

Though it is an Insteon switch it can have an X10 address programmed into it.
Comes in a few color's and I found them slightly larger than some of my other X10 wall switches.
Users Manual link is on the sales page if you want more information.
The toggle method is slightly different than a regular switch. The toggle button sticks out straight and you push it down for off and up for on.
It also sends an X10 on and off back on the power line when locally toggled.
http://www.smarthome.com/2466SW/ToggleLinc-Relay-INSTEON-Remote-Control-On-Off-Switch-Non-Dimming-White/p.aspx

[Msradell]

The Togglelinc is also a lot more expensive than most x10 equipment, I guess that is because it also has the Insteon built-in.  I wonder if maybe since compact fluorescents are becoming the norm if maybe X10 will come out with one anytime soon?  They did modify the appliance modules to make them compatible.

[Knightrider]

I use the togglelincs for the same purposes.  Just remember that they require (as well as the x10 paddle switch) a neutral connection at the switch.

Pretty sure that I just deleted the weekly email from smarthome with togglelincs on sale for 19.99.  Maybe another smarthead will provide a link.

[Brian H]

I get their emails and I don't remember seeing them that inexpensive.

[Knightrider]

Think the subject line was something along the lines of "automation for under $50" sale.

I did a google Topeka for togglelinc $19.99, and came up with this:

http://deals.coupon-land.com/smarthome-com/40768/togglelinc-deluxe-dimmer-white.html

which is for the dimmer version (not what we wanted) so it leaves the OP to either:

A) Think that Knightrider is confused/senile

B) Dig a little deeper

[Msradell]

Knightrider, I guess we will have to go with senility!  I did a lot of searching and like you could only find the $19.95 deal on the dimmer units, not the relays!  I guess I'll keep watching to see when they go on sale.  By the way, Google is back to being itself today.  Although I guess that would be a good indication that Topeka is one of the leading contenders to get the fiber system. 

[Dan Lawrence]

What kind of a Fluorescent light are you wanting to control?  If it's a "plug in" light, an appliance module can be used.  If it's a ceiling mounted light, the XPFM mounted in the case can be used.   Both can be given an X10 address and AHP will control either.

[Jason B]

Does anyone make a fluorescent wall switch and is not the Decora (large switch area) style?  All the switches in my home are the traditional small switch style and I don't want to change one or two to get the ability to switch florescent lights.

I'm trying to do the same thing. I don't get why these are so expensive. X10 needs to come out with something cheaper. I have the Ws467's that are only $9 each on ebay. Now I'm switching a lot of lights out for the CFL's, and $45 a piece, ouch!

[Aaron1312042]

I'm confused about installation. On the WS13a installation guide  it shows a load wire, but where is the neutral wire to the load (light)? Do you attach it to the WS13a box from the vacant "neutral" spot in the WS13a?

[Brian H]

The WS13A needs the Line; Neutral and Load wires to work.
Many newer homes have a Neutral in the switch box. That is spliced to the wiring going to the Load. If it doesn't you have to pull one into the box or the WS13A will not work.
That is why my older home has very few wall switches controlling a CFL as it has no Neutrals in the switch box.
My home also has the Line going to the light fixture directly. It then gets routed down to the switch and back to the fixture to its load connection. Called a switch loop.

[nybuck]

I'm confused about installation. On the WS13a installation guide  it shows a load wire, but where is the neutral wire to the load (light)? Do you attach it to the WS13a box from the vacant "neutral" spot in the WS13a?

The neutral wire from the switch does not need to go to the load (light).  The light should just get a neutral independantly, not switched.  The switch is just switching the hot lead.  The neutral is just there to power the X10 receiver.

I hope this helps!