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[Jason B]

I have a porch light that I replaced the incandecent bulbs with a florescent type bulb. Is there something that can control these type bulbs?

[nybuck]

Yes!

The XPS3 - "Ideal for fluorescent lighting"

http://www.activehomepro.com/accessories/pro/xps3_iw_wa1_s.html

Although I bought mine for $11 shipped on Ebay   

[Jason B]

Awesome. Do they have for Toggle style switches?

[Brian H]

Just remember. You need a neutral power wire in the switch box for the WS13A to work.

There is no X10 Toggle style non dimming switch.
There maybe other brands with Toggle Style buttons.
I know the Insteon ToggleLinc can have an X10 address added to it but it is like $45.99 ea. It also needs a Neutral wire.

[nybuck]

Here is a link to one on Ebay...  Like Brian said, they are not cheap...

http://cgi.ebay.com/INSTEON-ToggleLinc-V2-Relay-White-2466SW_W0QQitemZ310086350328QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item48329635f8

[Jason B]

Thanks again guys. Is it me, or does anyone find it funny that X10 doesn't have one of these that fits in a toggel wall plate?

Also, what do you mean by neutral wire? What would I look for when I remove the existing switch? I'm a little new at this.

[nybuck]

Standard 120 vac has 3 conductors:  Black, White and green/copper.

Black is the switched power (+)
White is Neutral (-)
Green is ground, also sometimes appears in the wall box as copper, or unjacketed wire.

Often in a switch box, the white is in the back tied directly to the white wire of the light.  The black is in and out of the switch.  One side is hot, the other switches the hot to the light.

I hope that helps!   

[Brian H]

If the White is on one of the switches terminals and it is not a switch that has a indicator light in it. It may NOT be a neutral.
I have switch loops. Where the Black line in the fixture is spliced to the White going to the switch and the Black from the switch ties to the lights line connection. Known as a switch loop and I believe the White in that case should have a black line or piece of tape on it. Though mine do not.

[Mel99]

Also, what do you mean by neutral wire? What would I look for when I remove the existing switch? I'm a little new at this.

If you don't have a decent Digital Multi Meter, get one before you start working with your wires.  After you're sure the right breaker is off, test every wire in the box before you touch any wire in the box.

[JeffVolp]

After you're sure the right breaker is off, test every wire in the box before you touch any wire in the box.

That is good idea because it is not unusual to have more than one circuit breaker feed a multi-gang box.  And, I have had one circuit breaker (Square D) still feeding power to a circuit when it was switched off.  I had to cycle it ON and OFF again to have it actually disconnect the power.

Jeff

[Brian H]

Gee Jeff. I thought Federal Pacific StabLock Breakers where the only ones that would stick on.

[dwpatter]

Hi;

I also wonder if X10 is going to miss the boat or go out of business because of CFL and LED lightbulbs.

LED bulbs are also a problem, a dimmer module has enough leakage current that the LED stays on at 1/2 brightness when the module is off.

A proper solution is needed, using appliance modules is not a real solution.
They are too expensive and overkill for the application.

New relay modules or smarter solid state modules are required for CFL and LED bulbs.

In some locations incandescent light bulbs are going to be banned.

Then what will we upgrade to, from our current solid state modules ?

X10 offering appliance modules as the CFL solution is very lame.

Dave P.

[Brian H]

Maybe they have something in the future and are moving excessive stock.
Right now you can get eight Lamp; 3 pin appliance; 2 pin appliance modules in the mega module sale for $49.99

I don't think incandescents are going to be banned outright. Manufacturers are working on bulbs that meet the stricter energy saving requirements.

[dave w]

Hi;

I also wonder if X10 is going to miss the boat or go out of business because of CFL and LED lightbulbs.

LED bulbs are also a problem, a dimmer module has enough leakage current that the LED stays on at 1/2 brightness when the module is off.

A proper solution is needed, using appliance modules is not a real solution.
They are too expensive and overkill for the application.

X10 offering appliance modules as the CFL solution is very lame.

FWIW

I doubt X10 is coming with anything new for CFLs or LED bulbs.  Apparently their relay style  "fluorescent" wall switch (WS13), is not suitable for CFLs and LED bulbs otherwise I think X10 would have bimbos advertising such. The problem is a "non-leakage" wall switch would require a neutral line to the switch in addition to the HOT and LOAD lines and most older homes do not have the neutral in "end run" wall switch boxes. Which may be why X10 has not bothered to modify the WS13.

("Brian H Testing Labs"...have you ever checked a WS13 for leakage/sensing currents?)

With proper testing you can use a Socket Rocket for CFLs and LEDs. They turn on fast, shut off completely, and are not dimmable, making them usable for LEDs and CFLs in most cases. X10 states the Socket Rocket is for incandescent bulbs only. This is because the Socket Rocket will add a small amount of distortion to the AC sine wave when ON and X10 is doing a CYB in the event a CFL does not like distortion. Most CFLs and LED bulbs tolerate the distortion with no problem. The test would be to try the Socket Rocket / bulb combination to be sure the bulb does not flicker or run hot. I have SRs driving CFLs, LED bulbs with internal power supplies, and LED ropes with no problems.   

[Brian H]

No I have not checked a WS13A leakage but can. It would be the X10Pro XSP3 in my case.