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[AlarmSafe]

I am struggling with the ws13a trying to set up a 3 Way situation. I just realize I need the ws14a along with the ws13a to get the 3 way to work. But I'm confused on what to do when I recieve the ws14a. Here is what I got: A three gang box: Left switch is a three pole; has one white wire on the left side of the switch and two black wires on the right side.The middle switch is a single pole; it has two black wires going to it. the right switch is a four pole; It has four wires going to it. two white ones on the left side and two black ones on the right side of it. PLEASE, PLEASE tell me how to hook up the ws13a, I want to change all three of these switches to x10 controllers please tell me what I would need and how to do it.

[AlarmSafe]

Here is a pic of the box I'm trying to automate Please help!

[Brandt]

a three way is a master and slave configuration. in the case of x10 switches, the slave must be on the line wire before the master (where the 120volts comes into the junction box), the slave then connects to the master with a traveler wire and then the master switch connects to the load wire. so you need to take a dmm and find out which wire the 120volts is coming in on and that is where you hook up the slave.

If you reverse this, then the slave will lose power and no longer function when you shut off the master.

[nybuck]

I think another helpful bit of information is how many regular switches are on that light today.  You could have 3 wires going to a switch that controls 2 lights, or one that 2 switches control one light.  Perhaps neither.

Personally, I couldn't answer definitively based on your 'wire count' or picture.  A meter would help you know what was doing what.

The only thing I could say for sure is the switch with 2 wires.  That is current and load.

[dave w]

I am struggling with the ws13a trying to set up a 3 Way situation. I just realize I need the ws14a along with the ws13a to get the 3 way to work. But I'm confused on what to do when I recieve the ws14a. Here is what I got: A three gang box: Left switch is a three pole; has one white wire on the left side of the switch and two black wires on the right side.The middle switch is a single pole; it has two black wires going to it. the right switch is a four pole; It has four wires going to it. two white ones on the left side and two black ones on the right side of it. PLEASE, PLEASE tell me how to hook up the ws13a, I want to change all three of these switches to x10 controllers please tell me what I would need and how to do it.

I sounds like you have a standard 2 wire circuit (the middle switch), a three way circuit, and a four way circuit (the switch with four wires) in that box. You need to figure out what you have before jumping in with both feet. Do you have a four way circuit (a light controlled by three switches) ??

If so, you need two companion switches for the four way circuit.

ftp://ftp.x10.com/pub/instructions/4-way-wiring.pdf

Wire your three way by the top diagram and the four way from the bottom diagram. As Pomprocker suggested, you need a meter to figure out which wire(s) are  LINE and which wires is to the LOADs. The master must go only at either end of the four way  ( not the middle of the circuit box).

[AlarmSafe]

I'm Still confused on how to wire the ws13a, this switch is much different from the ws477. I must use the ws13a because I use halogen lights. I'm told the ws477 is to weak to run halogen bulbs.

[AlarmSafe]

Also which x10 controller will I use as a master and as a slave (remember I'm using the ws13a)

[Brian H]

Any power line X10 controller can send the signal to the WS13A to control it.
Mini Controller; Maxi controller; CM15A running AHP; RF remotes like a HR12A Palm Pad through a RR501 or TM751 transceiver. The choices are many.

The WS14A Slave switch only triggers the WS13A Master and can not be remote controlled at all.

Are you Halogen Lights low voltage or 120 volt direct?

Yes as you found. The WS13A does need a Neutral Power wire to work. The WS477 steals power through the load and that is why it only uses two wires for the light and one for the companion switch.

[dave w]

I'm Still confused on how to wire the ws13a, this switch is much different from the ws477. I must use the ws13a because I use halogen lights. I'm told the ws477 is to weak to run halogen bulbs.

If you are using 120V halogen bulbs and your total circuit wattage is less than 500 Watts, the WS477A should work fine. If you are using low voltage halogens, then yes, you need the WS13A.

[AlarmSafe]

So I can use the ws13a with the ws477? in a three way set up?

[Brian H]

NO both are Masters. You need a companion switch to trigger either a WS13A or WS477.

[dave w]

So I can use the ws13a with the ws477? in a three way set up?

Alarm,
Sorry, I did not mean to confuse you more. My point was IF you are using 120V halogen bulbs and IF the total wattage is less than 500W you can use the WS477, I should have completed the information by mentioning the CS277 Companion Switch would be needed for the other end of the 3-way circuit.

[Brian H]

Decorator Companion: http://www.x10.com/automation/ws14a_s.html

Toggle Style Companion: http://www.activehomepro.com/accessories/pro/pcw03_wa1_s.html

[Deemar]

I've done this before, here is how:

I used a WS12A and a WS14A, master and a slave. Then I went to www.aartech.ca and downloaded the PDF install guides for them, they have clearly defined illustrations on how to hook them up properly.

WS12A: http://www.aartech.ca/docs/WS12A.pdf
WS14A: http://www.aartech.ca/docs/WS14A.pdf

[AlarmSafe]

Last question, are the traveller wires already in the box connected to the existing switches or do I have to make them myself?