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[toasterking]

I would not recommend these be used in an enclosure of any kind knowing that the failure mode is not a simple filament failure but IMO a very likely fire.

After that report, it seems I'd be crazy to use a Socket Rocket for anything, ever.  Why they didn't just include a fuse is beyond me.  Even in old appliance modules where they were too cheap to use a real fuse, they had a single strand of something like 26AWG wire soldered in as a fail-safe.  I don't think the load itself was fused, but still, c'mon!  I think the thing that irks me the most is that they were actually able to get those things UL certified as they are.

[bkenobi]

I saw other reports of those modules failing so when mine failed I went probing for why.  TBF, it's not like that's the only X10 module I've had melt on me.  I had a WS467 (or maybe it was a WS4777) have the cutoff switch fall out because the whole thing got so hot it melted.  This was controlling a single outdoor halogen lamp with 2 bulbs rated at 300W (150W x2).  It should not have been a problem but clearly it was.  Seems to me they skimped on components and/or heat sinks in contact with thermoplastics beyond their transition temperature.  That's not necessarily a fire issue, but definitely a design failure.

[dave w]

I had a WS467 (or maybe it was a WS4777) have the cutoff switch fall out because the whole thing got so hot it melted.  This was controlling a single outdoor halogen lamp with 2 bulbs rated at 300W (150W x2).  It should not have been a problem but clearly it was. 

I have a suspicion that the original specs X10 assigned to the wall switches was based on the switch being installed in a metal box which was the standard in late '70s. X10 engineering was always on the minimalist side bordering on hinky. I still do not see how they got UL approval for the socket rocket. $0.02

[Neil_O]

I don't see how a two wire wall switch that needed to steal power through the load. Can be totally compatible with an LED load.

About 2 years ago I designed a small module that connects directly across the load that allows 2-wire X10 wall switches to work with dimmable CFL and LED bulbs.  It emulates the tungsten filament in an incandescent bulb, but consumes almost no power when the switch is on.  It is about the size of your thumb, and should easily fit into the electrical box for the light.  Some of those on this forum may have a prototype.  I should have another batch available after my PCB supplier gets going again.

Jeff

This sounds like exactly what I need.  Have you received any new units, or is your PCB supplier shutdown with everyone else?

[dave w]

About 2 years ago I designed a small module that connects directly across the load that allows 2-wire X10 wall switches to work with dimmable CFL and LED bulbs.  It emulates the tungsten filament in an incandescent bulb, but consumes almost no power when the switch is on.  It is about the size of your thumb, and should easily fit into the electrical box for the light.  Some of those on this forum may have a prototype.  I should have another batch available after my PCB supplier gets going again.

Jeff

I have three of these "LED Shunt" with two in service. Both shunts work incredibly well. In one application I had a 7W golf ball incandescent bulb in an extra fixture to get two LED sconces on the garage to work. All was well until I replaced the LED bulbs with the "Flame Bulbs" for a gas flame look. Apparently the flame bulbs drew even less current than the 13W LED bulbs. So they would not turn on but would turn off. The LED Shunt made everything perfect again.  My next project is to X10 the kitchen fluorescent fixture. I plan on removing the two magnetic ballasts and replacing the bulbs with the LED tubes that are direct 120V. With an LED Shunt I believe I can use a WS467 for control. Every time I install a shunt I dream up four more applications. They work really well.

[JeffVolp]

About 2 years ago I designed a small module that connects directly across the load that allows 2-wire X10 wall switches to work with dimmable CFL and LED bulbs.  It emulates the tungsten filament in an incandescent bulb, but consumes almost no power when the switch is on.  It is about the size of your thumb, and should easily fit into the electrical box for the light.  Some of those on this forum may have a prototype.  I should have another batch available after my PCB supplier gets going again.

This sounds like exactly what I need.  Have you received any new units, or is your PCB supplier shutdown with everyone else?

They were shut down for awhile, but I recently received a small batch of boards:

    http://jvde.us/xtb/xtb_ordering.htm#led-shunt

Hopefully, X10 will put it into production.

Jeff

[the other steve]

Yep. They work great!  I am using a WS467 with 4 Cree 9-watt BR-30s.

Just ordered another.

Steve

[Neil_O]

Let me add my two cents regarding the LED Shunts.  They work great!  For years, I've been trying to figure out an easy way to convert a lamppost and other outdoor lights controlled by WS467s to LED bulbs.  Until now, I've been forced to leave one incandescent bulb in each fixture so that the WS467s could control them.  After installing the shunt, I am now 100% LED in those fixtures and the control works perfectly.  Thanks Jeff for making these available.

[dave w]

Thanks Jeff for making these available.

I'll second that.

[JeffVolp]

Just a handful are left now.  There may not be any more if X10 doesn't go into production.

I noticed someone is selling a heat shrunk 10K resistor on Amazon for over $20.  Obviously, this is much more than a 10 cent resistor.

Jeff

[petera]

Jeff just wondering if there’s a 240v alternative you know of out there. I know it’s a long shot but I thought I’d ask anyway.

[JeffVolp]

Jeff just wondering if there’s a 240v alternative you know of out there. I know it’s a long shot but I thought I’d ask anyway.

Sorry, not that I am aware of.  The 10K resistor solution would obviously overheat on 240V.  And mine has a 130VAC MOV to prevent powerline spikes from damaging the 400V MOSFETs.

Jeff

[petera]

Jeff just wondering if there’s a 240v alternative you know of out there. I know it’s a long shot but I thought I’d ask anyway.

Sorry, not that I am aware of.  The 10K resistor solution would obviously overheat on 240V.  And mine has a 130VAC MOV to prevent powerline spikes from damaging the 400V MOSFETs.

Jeff

I didn’t think so. I’m trying to come up with a solution to run LEDs on a 240v power line using X10 but I’m not having much luck. Not a big X10 deal breaker at the moment but the way development is going in lighting technology I’m hoping it’s not a race against time

[Moose]

I’m trying to come up with a solution to run LEDs on a 240v power line using X10 but I’m not having much luck. Not a big X10 deal breaker at the moment but the way development is going in lighting technology I’m hoping it’s not a race against time.

Petera, just a thought, but could you not use a 240v center tapped 1:1 isolation transformer. So the secondary would have 2- 120v branches that you could use any 120 volt devices in pairs. I think pairs would be best to balance the current flow.

[Brian H]

With a 230V primary, 120V/120V secondary transformer.
The X10 signal may have problems getting through the transformer. If you have the LED bulb and X10 120 Volt module on the secondary and the X10 signals on 230V the primary. Maybe an X10 transceiver with an X10 RF command on the 120V side.