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[Brian H]

The CM15A does not send an X10RF command to modules except the TM751A that is RF only.
It sends a power line command.
Do you have any phase coupling between the two incoming power lines?
For dimmer type modulles thare are two drop down lists.
Before Soft Start and Lamps that are soft start.
Jeff has a great set of tutorials on X10 signaling coupling and noise problems.
https://jvde.us/x10-troubleshooting/

[brobin]

I would say so. If the unit worked in the laundry room before and doesn't now, and nothing else has changed, refreshing the schedule is the 1st (and hopefully only) step.

[jagMan653]

Looks like I misspoke. Let me try again to explain my view of how the CM15A and "control" devices such as the PalmPad and the wall-mounted 3-button devices work together to make lamps etc to turn on or off.

The control devices can't themselves inject anything into the power lines-- the can't because they are not connected to the power lines. Instead they emit an RF signal. That signal must be picked up the antenna on the CM15A. In response to that signal the CM15A injects an X10 command into the power lines.

For this to work, RF has to be able to transmit from the controller to the antenna. I found this from https://www.mistralsolutions.com/:
"Materials such as drywall, plywood, other kinds of wood and glass can be easily penetrated by wireless signals. However, materials such as brick, plaster, cement, metal, stone, and double-glazed glass may cause problems. "

Our home was built in 1969 when "lath & plaster" was used by the builders as a sign of quality. There are two such walls that the RF has to pass through to get from the controller to the antenna when the CMA15A is located my computer room. When it's in the laundry room there are none.

[brobin]

The lath is a essentially a metal screen that is very effective in blocking RF transmissions! If the CM15A in the laundry room can receive the RF signals from the remotes then you should be OK.

[bkenobi]

If you use AHP, you can write the commands you need from your computer onto the CM15A so that you don't need it plugged in to USB.  If that works, you can install the CM15A in any receptacle in your home that works the best.  Also be careful that the CM15A is installed on the same leg of power as your lights.  If it's on the wrong leg and you have nothing running on 220VAC then you would need a repeater or bridge.  You can test this by turning on your dryer (assuming it's electric) and trying to control your lights again.

[jagMan653]

An update covering the last few days:

Afternoon of 2020 Dec 19:
For testing purposes, I put batteries in a brand new PalmPad.

Power configuration is as recommended by the @robin H and @brobin… my ACP Back-UPS Pro 700 plugged into the "filtered out" of my SmartHome Linc"

Was able to control living room lamp without problems from back bedrooms when the  transceiver was located in the computer room. XTMB showed no noise. Short while later  discovered the lights were nonresponsive so had to move transceiver to the laundry room for the PalmPad to work.

2022 Dec 22 About 5:45AM

Was able to control lamps from all over house with transceiver to the laundry room.
Was able to control lamps from all over house with transceiver to the computer room.

Opened the AHP App while transceiver was in computer room. Could not turn lamps on/off using the AHP App simulated switches.

2022 Dec 22

It occurred to me that the Timers might be causing the problem, so I decided to all of them. I did so, then used Tools menu to save changes to the transceiver.
Result:
Able to control lamps from all over house with transceiver to the laundry room.
Able to control lamps from all over house with transceiver to the computer room.

I'll leave it that way for a day or two, then setup a timer or two.

Upshot:
I think I'm making progress but still have some work to do.

While doing these tests I've backed off a bit on my previous believe that my problems are due to poor RF transmission. That seems to be contradicted by the seeing the lamps  turned on/off with the PalmPad anywhere in the house. This probably will be of no surprise to the Community because of the plethora of problems due to circuit noise.

 

 

[brobin]

Sounds like you're making good progress and are on the right track. Set up a couple of timers and keep us posted.

[jagMan653]

Made another effort to make a Timer work, but no joy.

Plugged the CM15A into the pass-through outlet on the SmartHome Linc.
Opened AHP Pro. Deleted all Timers. Created a new Timer to turn the Living Room lamp (which is plugged into an Appliance module). Set it to turn on at 11:15AM, off at 11:30AM.  Did not work. Reprogrammed the Timer to new on/off times, downloaded to the CM15A, moved the CM15A to the living room. Didn't work.

What am I missing?

[jagMan653]

Ran across this from @petra May 24, 2020:

"Never used AHP before but just a long shot. Assuming your CM15 is not failing, clear the memory of everything in AHP, unplug your CM15 from the USB port and mains, remove the batteries for about ten minutes. Replace the batteries and reconnect your CM15 to the USB port and mains outlet and upload your timers again."

I've been just deleting the timers and didn't know (or forgot!) about the battery removal thing.

Might give it a try...

[Tuicemen]

The battery ritual is a long standing issue when using AHP and the CM15A. One user added a switch to the side of the CM15A to avoid having to do it. https://forums.x10.com/index.php?action=post;quote=32045;topic=4345.0;last_msg=165962
If your CM15A is conected to a PC 24/7 or not moved the Batteries aren't needed.

[brobin]

I received an email with the following post but it's not showing up in the thread. I'm posting it here with a reply:

After a holiday break, today I got back to my problem with Timers.
So here's what I did today.


The CM15A is in the computer room.
A SmartHome filter is plugged into the mains and the UPS is plugged into its filtered port.
I have a 5AMP Plugin filter plugged into the mains and a power strip plugged into its filtered port.
An Appliance module is plugged into that power strip.
A desk lamp with incandescent lamp is plugged into the Appliance module.
My brand new Active Home Pro transceiver is plugged into the same power strip.

The tests and results:
Lamp is not controllable with AHP switch icon. (Should it be?)
Lamp is controllable with the PalmPad

I created a Timer set to go on at 3:10PM & off at 3:15PM
Tools|Download to the CM15A

Didn't turn on at 3:10PM so I turned it on with the PalmPad.
Didn't turn off at 3:15PM.

Tester plugged into mains  shows X9.96 F 120 N.00 Monitor
Tester plugged into power strip shows X-.-- F -- N.00 Monitor

There must be something I don't understand about Timers

What am I missing?


REPLY:
The power strip should be plugged directly into the mains withOUT the filter. The filter is blocking X10 signals from the CM15A. The transceiver is receiving a signal from the PalmPad and is on the same side of the filter as the module so it works.  Without the filter the signal from the CM15A should operate te the module IF the powerstrip doesn't have it's own filter (as many do). For testing just plug the  module directly into the wall outlet.

[jagMan653]

@brobin, Sorry about the missing post. While doing edit/preview cycle a couple times I hit Post. Then, I saw yet another typo and deleted the message. Of course, that didn't pull back the email!

That aside, from what you said I have more testing to do.

The reason I had the 5AMP Plugin filter plugged into the mains and a power strip plugged into its filtered port was to keep the power strip generated noise out of the mains. I'll try it your way & report back. I will assume that by "For testing just plug the  module directly into the wall outlet" you are referring to the Appliance module.

BTW, after learning in this forum that power strips with surge protection are noise sources I tried to find one without surge protection. No luck.

[brobin]

The surge protector power strips don't usually throw off noise but they can affect X10 signals to modules plugged into them.  That's why I suggested plugging the appliance module directly into the wall outlet (mains).  With the power strip plugged into the 5a filter you isolated the module from receiving any X10 signals from the powerline!  The PalmPad still worked because the transceiver is plugged in to the strip as well.
Here's a link to a power strip with no surge protection or filters:  https://amzn.to/3jTaQdG
If you see a power strip with no 'joule' rating it's probably a straight-through one. The good news is that they are usually pretty cheap! Two for 10 bucks delivered in the link.

[Brian H]

Most filtered surge strips have capacitors across the power lines.
They are more like a signal sucker. Absorbing the power line signals as noise.
I modified one I had by removing the capacitors and just left the spike suppressing MOV installed.

[bkenobi]

My experience is the same.  With low cost strips (effectively just a splitter), there is little change to the X10 signal.  With fancier units that claim "lightning protection/insurance" and whatnot, they tend to cause issues as Brian said.  It also depends on what is on the power strip.  Anything that has a power supply is suspect so in areas where I have multiple items on a power strip, I generally need a filter (as confirmed by XTBM) so I use the FilterLinc.