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[suckered]

Great advertising.  Lousy product.  Purchased AHP and a couple of WS12A dimmer switches, a couple of lamp modules, and an RF style (3 unit) switch.  I would say the AHP module stuck to the programmed schedule the first couple days.  After that, lights may or may not go on.  Or, go on at non-scheduled times.  The RF switch will only work if it's 10 feet from the control module (what range!).  The WS12A dimmer switch started going on whenever it wanted, even after I disconnected the control module and even with no bothersome appliances going (e.g. washer, dryer).  I finally decided to re-install my original (basic) switch, and in removing the WS12A I discovered that it was almost too hot to touch!  Needless to say I was glad I was removing this thing before something really serious happened.  What a waste of money!

[wssparks77]

    I am with you pal. I purchased over $400.00 worth and its a crap shoot on what will and what will not work.

[steven r]

...and in removing the WS12A I discovered that it was almost too hot to touch!...

While AHP & X10 have some challenges, a WS12A switch under normal use should never be that hot. You may of had a defective switch.
BTW... What where you switching with it? (It's recommended for incandescent lights only 60-300 watts.)

[TakeTheActive]

   I am with you pal. I purchased over $400.00 worth and its a crap shoot on what will and what will not work.

X-10 came onto the scene ~30 years ago. Unfortunately, in the years since then, *MANY* new (and unexpected!) electronic devices came onto the market that INTERFERE with X-10. 

Sadly, X-10 doesn't make this "critical information" public in their ads.

CLICK on my SIG LINK and spend some time reading - you'll learn how to get it all working...

[suckered]

...and in removing the WS12A I discovered that it was almost too hot to touch!...

While AHP & X10 have some challenges, a WS12A switch under normal use should never be that hot. You may of had a defective switch.
BTW... What where you switching with it? (It's recommended for incandescent lights only 60-300 watts.)

Just my front porch lights.  All incandescent and well below 300 watts.

[dave w]

Interesting.....since the WS12A uses a neutral, it usually works better than the WS467.

Taketheactive is absolutely right. Since X10 hit the streets 30 years ago, a lot of things have come along (mainly switching power supplies) that throw monkey wrenches in the works.

It is not "a crap shoot"  but it is not "Plug -N-Play" either. You have to work at it a little, especially if you jump in in a big way.

You describe classic symptoms of noise and coupling problems. They are solveable, but at some additional cost and effort.

Check out "taketheactive" link, or search "noise" , "coupling" "filters" "repeaters" etc in this forum.

[steven r]

I've seen conflicting specs for the WS12A. I read one place that it was rated for use between 60 to 300W. Most specs I'm finding now say it is rated for 500W.

[me too]

Wall switches will get warm and this is normal. A metal wall switch cover will act as a heat sink to dissapate some of the heat.