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[Duck69]

Once again I need advise. 
So far everything is GREAT and I'm moving on to computer control ?
I have a Mac and am using Indigo software from Perceptive Automation.
I'm using a CM15A for control and I have a plug-in coupler.
All the stuff in the house is working OK with both Rf and computer control.
BUT ! I have no computer control at my un-attached garage which is some distance from the house.
RF from the house to the garage works fine.
Now my question. Since I have 220v coming into the garage, will I need another coupler out there and possibly replace the coupler in the house with a coupler/repeater orjust add a signal booster ?
I'm thinking that I will need another coupler in the garage and since it's a long way out there, something to boost the signal.
I could move the coupler from the house to the garage and put a coupler/repeater in the house.
Then again, I do have an antenna mod for the CM15A. Should I try this first ?
For those of you who don't know me, I'm disabled, so to put the antenna for the mod in the attic I'll have to get someone to do that for me.
  Hell, I've thought about putting in an attic stair so I can scoot up it backwards and do some re-wiring like adding neutral to the old part of the house. 
But like all things this takes $$$
Any and all advice will be appreciated.
Thanks
Jim

[Brian H]

If the RF is good the antenna mod will do nothing except add range for remotes if they became a problem. Sounds like the powerline signals can't get to the external garage. A repeater/coupler may add enough power to the signals to get them to the area needed. Your coupler only can send the noise and signal at it's input to the other phase. So if the signals are like .5 volt X10m and .25V noise at phase A it sends the same .5V X10 and .25V noise  back on Phase B.

[dave w]

Otis69

This is a FWIW comment:
The repeaters from ACT (Advanced Control Technologies - home of Uncle Phil) have a higher output than the Leviton / X10 model. Smarthome.com appears to be dumping their ACT repeaters, maybe they have a few left, cheap.

You may not need the passive coupler in the garage if you have a strong signal out of the house. My old Leviton had output of barely 5V, which is plenty under normal conditions within the average size house. However, my ACT 231 (older unit) cranks 10V, meaning it is good that my neighbors do not have X10 in their homes.

[Brian H]

The repeater may send a strong signal on both phases, but since you have a coupler. Add it if needed.

[TakeTheActive]

Once again I need advise (sic) . 

...All the stuff in the house is working OK with both Rf and computer control.
BUT ! I have no computer control at my un-attached garage which is some distance from the house.
RF from the house to the garage works fine.

• Does the MAINs FEED for the garage ORIGINATE in the house, or are they TWO SEPARATE 'meters / customers'?
  .
• Do you have a 'Circuit Breaker' diagram of your household?

...Now my question. Since I have 220v coming into the garage, will I need another coupler out there and possibly replace the coupler in the house with a coupler/repeater orjust add a signal booster ?
I'm thinking that I will need another coupler in the garage and since it's a long way out there, something to boost the signal.

IMO, *ONE* drop from the utility pole only needs *ONE* coupler.

I'm of the ' religion ' where *ELIMINATING* noise / signal suckers rates *ABOVE* ADDING repeaters (but couplers are OK!).

...Any and all advice will be appreciated.

Initially (depending on your answer to my MAINs question), I don't see why you need to "jump through any hoops". 

Do you own a Signal Strength Meter?

P.S. That (sic) up top is just me "busting your balls"!  Are we "Mid-50s / X-10 Pals" again???

P.P.S. Do a GOOGLE SEARCH on 'X10 XTB' *IT* may be a better alternative... (Think 'JV' while you're waiting for the SEARCH to return.  )

P.P.P.S. MAN, don't I need a $H!TLOAD of "Hlelpfuls" to dig myself out of THIS MESS!?! 

P.P.P.P.S. *NOT*!   

[JeffVolp]

An inexpensive signal meter like the ESM1 is probably the best investment you can make toward improving the reliablity of your X10 system.

As others have said, you should not need another passive coupler at the garage unless the garage has a separate power feed from the utility company.  A signal meter would confirm the signal strength (or lack thereof) on each phase in the garage.

Having used a Leviton repeater with little improvement over a PSC05, I designed the XTB to drive some decent signal levels throughout the house.  It is an option to consider.

Jeff

[Brian H]

I have seen references to your XTB in some forums. With good results.

[Brian H]

Here is his web address.
http://jvde.us/xtb/xtb_description.htm

[JeffVolp]

While the best location for the XTB is near the distribution panel, it would still boost the output of your CM15A at the other end of the house.  It would just plug between the wall socket and your CM15A.  Unfortunately, that configuration does not take advantage of the full drive capability of the XTB.  It is easy to boost signal levels on that one circuit, but much of that increase will be lost on the run back to the distribution panel.  Your CM15A has the same problem.

As an experiment, you might try moving your CM15A near your distribution panel.  I realize that may not be possible as a permanent solution, but it would tell you whether standard X10 levels are sufficient to cover your house and garage when the transmitter is optimally located.  If that is the case, then a repeater may actually be the better choice for your particular situation.

[JeffVolp]

Back when I was beta testing the CM14A, which was an early RS232 version of the CM15A, I used it as a standalone controller.  It worked great that way, and I only connected to the computer when the program needed modifications.  While I plugged the CM14A into a receptacle near the computer, it could be placed anywhere in the house.

Unfortunately X10 dropped the CM14A development.  As our house became more automated, I became concerned about a replacement for the CM14A should it ever fail.  I was not aware that the CM15A was in the pipeline, and migrated to the Ocelot.  I have since taken advantage of some of the Ocelot's additional capabilities by monitoring temperatures in certain areas to control exhaust fans.  But the integrated radio link in the CM14A and CM15A give them a significant advantage over the Ocelot for ordinary X10 automation.

Even though the Ocelot is much more integrated with our house than the CM14A had been, I still only connect it to the computer when making program changes.  So, you might consider standalone operation of your CM15A as a possible alternative.  That would allow you to locate it optimally for maximum coverage (RF and X10) throughout your house.

[JeffVolp]

There were reports of the PowerLink having sensitivity to out-of-band noise.  We also found it is not compatible with the XTB, possibly due to the noise issure.  The XTB includes an amplfier in the return signal path to boost low level X10 signals.  However, that amplifier will also boost noise with content in the 120KHz region.  The X10 transmitters apparently just ignore those noise glitches.

Assuming the garage is wired off the breaker panel at the opposite end of the house from your CM15A, a good repeater at the breaker panel may be the best solution.  Do some research first, because I recall some reports of the CM15A not playing nicely with some repeaters.

Good luck!

[roger1818]

Do some research first, because I recall some reports of the CM15A not playing nicely with some repeaters.

Yes, some people have reported that the CM15A doesn't play nicely with either the Levition CR or the SignLinc CRs.  To put in my 2 cents worth, I would put it an ACT CR.  AutomatedOutlet sells the CR-234 for $129.99, which is probably your best option (I would pay the extra $20 to get it over the CR230 (4820AC) that SmartHome sells).

[JeffVolp]

While I have only used the CM15A for testing so far, I did use its beta predecessor, the CM14A, for several years.  With its conditional macros, it would do pretty much anything I wanted.  I have always preferred having the automation controller run autonomously, and only connect to the PC for program updates.  Remember, you can have a macro generate a sequence of commands based on other commands or conditions.

Using ActiveHome, I would program the CM15A to do the automation control by itself, without requiring any PC support.  Then I would move the CM15A down near the distribution panel, which should give it the best shot at controlling both your house and garage.  If X10 devices are on both phases, then a good passive coupler should be installed at the distribution panel.

If your environment is relatively X10 friendly, this configuration may do the job.  If it doesn't, then you may have to identify and isolate any signal suckers or noise sources behind filters.  Another option is to use the XTB to drive some real power onto the line.

If you must keep the CM15A near the computer, then an active coupler/repeater at the breaker panel may give you the best chance for communicating with the garage.

[-Bill- (of wgjohns.com)]

...I'm not lazy, I'm just Resistant to exertion. 
Jim

I'll second that!

I wrote BXVC because it's too much effort to keep track of the remotes!   

[JeffVolp]

In an earlier post, I stated that my software Indigo doesn't support stand alone for the CM15A at this time.

Yes, I know.  That's why my last reply specifically stated:

Using ActiveHome, I would program the CM15A to do the automation control by itself, without requiring any PC support.

Perhaps you don't have access to a computer that can run the ActiveHome software.  I am not familiar with Indigo, but it seems to be a Mac only application.  If that's the case, I understand the issue.

You mentioned "complete control from any of the computers for automation".  I thought the reason for automation is so it takes care of itself.  Pretty much the only manual input we provide is to tell the irrigation to kick in an extra cycle because the plants look a bit wilted, or run the lights on one of two guest cycles.  Leviton 16400 wall switches trigger macros that take care of those functions (and indicate their status).  Macros can also be triggered by PalmPad for convenience.  But, the automation controller can go weeks, or even months, without any input from us.