> Steven R,
Wow awesome explanation.
I've gone through all the labeling as per your description and now I have the following for my 3-way:
Box 1 (Live) - 3 wires: Hot, A, B
Box 2 (Load) - 3 wires labelled :Load, A, B
In my entrance hallway, I have my Main Dimmer WS12A and the Slave Switch XPSS (same as WS14A Companion) the light will be only controllable from the slave switch. It dims and lights properly, the dimmer responds to non local commands as well, but the physical switch on the actual dimmer box can only turn the light off if it's been turned on already by the slave. If the light is off this button does nothing.
I think I must have spent the better part of yesterday pouring through forums and tutorials all over the net only to come up empty handed...
Through re-reading and re wiring today, I've managed to get this entrance 3 way functional from the slave switch only. Not bad for 2 days work... I guess I'm 1/2 way there...
Here are my questions:
1) Box 1 / Box 2 - According to the installation manual that the WS12A comes with the main dimmer goes in the Live box and the Slave switch in the box with the load. Does reversing these fix/break anything in my scenario?
The x-10 diagram does not make sense with what I see on the dimmer itself - color code is wrong on at least one of them
ftp://ftp.x10.com/pub/manuals/ws12a-14a-is.pdfThe pdf above states (on the main Dimmer):
Blue - Common to Line (presume HOT)
Red - traveler to switch on Slave
Black - Goes to Live on Companion
On the Dimmer itself i see the following:
Line - Black (!)
Load - Blue (!)
Switch - Red
I should mention of the 5 3-ways I've wired so far, 3 work flawlessly
, and 2 work on one end only for on/off/dimming. The other end has some/no local control.
Thanks so much !
...How do I find the live wire? I have a simple bulb tester....
This is truly a case where a picture would be worth at least 1000 words but I'll do my best.
This first step is to get a clear understanding of how the mechanical switches work. If how it works isn't crystal clear in your mind, study the drawing or make a mock up on paper and play with it till it is second nature. Trust me. You'll feel a lot more comfortable when you're looking a 6 different wire ends.
Let's start buy assuming you have the "power to switch first" option. Keep in mind that unlike the drawing implies, a neutral wire will not be connected to the mechanical switch and in the case of an older home may not even be present in the box.
In addition to your tester, you'll need a wire nut or two, some masking tape and a pen to mark the wires. Again it's better not to trust this to memory. You'll be making a half dozen or so trips to the breaker box to turn power on and off so pick a time when you're least likely to lower the WAF or otherwise alarm the SOAP.
Keep in mind at times you'll be working with live current. Ok here we go...
- TURN OFF THE POWER.
- CHECK ALL WIRES AND MAKE SURE THERE IS NO POWER. I learned the hard way that there can be more than one circuit in the box.
- Physically remove the wires from both switches and position the wires so you can access them with your tester without physically touching them.
- Make sure no exposed wires are touching anything and turn on the power.
- Use your tester to figure out which of the 6 wires is live. i.e. Ground one lead of the tester and touch each wire till you find the live one. For peace of mind, check them all. Only one wire should be live.
- TURN OFF THE POWER.
- Use your tape and label that wire Hot.
- Pick one of the remaining 2 wires at the switch and label it A
- Wire nut the Hot wire to the A wire.
- Label the remaining wire B.
- Make sure no exposed wires are touching anything and turn on the power.
- Go to the 2nd switch location and find the wire that is live. Again only 1 wire should be live.
- TURN OFF THE POWER.
- Label the wire you just found A.
- Go back to the 1st switch location and connect the Hot wire to the B wire.
- Make sure no exposed wires are touching anything and turn on the power.
- Return to the 2nd switch location and find the wire that is live. Again only 1 of the 2 remaining wires should be live.
- TURN OFF THE POWER.
- Label the wire you just found B.
- Label the remaining wire Load.
It's been awhile since I had my install adventure but I'm sure if you have the "power to switch first" option and follow the above to the letter, remembering to be careful around the wires when they are live, you'll have your wiring figured out.