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[Norm]

Well, so far results suck. I set the unit (V572) up, configured it via the computer, and then moved the the unit to my bedroom on the other side of the house from my office. I hung the antenna on the top of the closet door (basically vertical) and then tried to send signal using the security keyfob (KR10A), the slimfire remote (KR19A), and the motion detector (MS10A). As I activated these devices I watched the green light on the V572 transceiver for indication that it was detecting the various controls. I found I had to be within 6-7 feet of the unit/antenna before it detected the various control signals. It appears my TM751 transceiver is more sensitive. Between the TM751 and the CM15A, one on either end of the house, the slimfire remote seems to work throughout the house. Of course the slimfire is transmitting house/unit code, not the 32 bit RF code I need to use the motion sensor, security keyfob, and door/window sensors. I must be doing something wrong, because I'm certainly not get 100-200 feet range reception others have talked about. Any body have any ideas?? In my tests, I wasn't even trying to transmit through any walls.

Norm

[Puck]

Norm: Make sure your antenna cables are all tight and there are no kinks in it. Also, you might want to unplug any TM751 transceivers and un-Transceive all housecodes in the CM15A. Then check AHP's activity monitor during your tests. I suspect you could be getting signal collisions.

Remember that the CM15A will still pick up RF signals and act upon them for macro execution even though that housecode is not transceived. For your test, I suggest you set your remote to an unused housecode/unitcode and look for the CM15A to receive the signal as a PLC.

If you are still getting only 6 - 7 feet of reception then there has to be a fault with that V572RF32 or maybe its placement. I have mine centrally located (high) in my house and am getting coverage of at least a 40' perimeter around the outside of my house.

[jtykal]

That's really bad, Norm. Sorry to hear you're having trouble. I can get 6-7 feet without an antenna even connected to my f-modded CM15A. Any chance that you have a bad antenna/cable? Did you do a continuity check with an ohmeter?

[steven r]

I would really appreciate seeing any macros you will share....

This is I stripped down version of my macros. I do a few other things in mine that you don't need to do for the basic flashing.

Ok this arrangement uses 3 macros, 1 dummy appliance module, and 1 flag.
For my example, I've used macros "P4 ON", "P5 ON", "P5 OFF", "Dummy module defined as P4", and flag 2

Flash Lights - Loop   P4 On and Flag Status On exactly 2
   House Code C   All Lights On
   Delay for 5 Seconds      ;Pick your own delay times
   House Code C   All Units Off
   Delay for 5 Seconds      ;Pick your own delay times
   P4      ON

Flash Lights - Start   P5 On
   Set Flags [2]   Flag Command
   P4       ON

Flash Lights - Stop   P5 Off
   Clear Flags [2]   Flag Command
   Delay for 2 Seconds
   Clear Flags [2]   Flag Command  ;Redundant command ideally not needed but this is X10 you know. 
   Delay for 15 Seconds
   House Code C   All Units Off   ;Insures that lights are left off. If you prefer you can send an "All Lights On" or omit all together.

[spam4us]

In addition to the above......
If you have a ds7000 security console, make sure the V572RF32 is not transceiving the housecode that the DS7000 is set to.

[Norm]

Well, tightened connections, relocated, dumped set-up, and started all over. It appears the V572 can now receive RF from my devices about 50 feet and injects signals into my electrical system. I also tested it from my detached garage, which is about 120 feet from my office and the signals in the electrical signal made it to my CM15A interface. Today, I am going to try from what I hope is a permanent location, in the garage attached to the house (about half way between the detached garage and my office). This time I will put the antenna in the attic and the V572 down inside the garage. The attic gets to hot for the V572. If RF signals from the garage still reliably make it into the system, I will mount sensors in the garage and then go back to work on the macros to make the stuff do what I want it to. Things are starting to look up! Thanks to everyone for all of the help! I will post results.

Regards,
Norm

[Norm]

Well I got my WR thing, installed an electrical outlet in attic, installed the thing and put the antenna at the roof peak. For a while I was able to receive signals from the motion detector and door/window sensors in the garage...then they quit. At first, when my wife triggered the motion detector in the morning, after 5 Min's. the system would turn off the lights after she left. When that happened I was working on another project and assumed it had to do with a sunrise/sunset setting. Apparently that wasn't it. In any case, I have since moved a 751 out to the garage and now I can run a macro from the house which will turn on the lights and sound a siren, but when I enter the garage the lights do not come on..just the siren. And the macro changed from a siren to a chime...on it's own. Changed back, eliminating the bright/dim commands that came out of nowhere. I have tried to put delays in the macro, thinking that there might be data collisions between the motion detector and the macro. Didn't seem to help. I have spent a lot of money and a lot of hours screwing with this stuff and it's really getting old. To check out the WR thing I'll have to take my computer up into the roof. I guess I'll have to reinstall the door/window sensors to work with the 751. I have been trying to work alone and it's well over a hundred feet to the garage...You can't believe how many trips I've made back and forth. I am beginning to believe it would have been easier to hard-wire everthing. Anybody have any ideas why the macro works when triggered from the computer, but when triggered by the motion detector? Also, my siren only sounds for about 4 seconds using a couple of on/off commands. When I use a single on command it acts as an annunciator. How do I turn on the siren and have it sound until I send an off command? Any help appreciated.
Norm

[Norm]

Also, using the active pro computer program...how does one "arm" or "disarm" the system?

[PajamaGuy]

1. - I assume you have AHP & all 4 plug-in modules.
2. If you are referring to a DS7000 system, AHP can ARM, but not disarm it.  And you have to install whatever security remotes you plan to use - into AHP, then create a macro using that remote to ARM the DS7000 - AND THEN YOU MUST set the DS7000 to install and RUN the macro once to register it with the DS7000.  And YES, it takes up one of the 8 security remote slots on the DS7000.
3. V572 converts all RF to PLC.  PLC representations of security sensors do not register with the cooresponding installed security module in AHP.  What that means is - If you install a DS10a door/window sensor in AHP - ONLY RF from that sensor will cause the AHP representation of that sensor to reflect its state.  The V572 won't help you there - BUT say for instance, you tell the V572 to send a HC\UC of C5 On & OFF whenever the DS10A opens & closes.  You MUST register that MS10a with the V572.  Then every time that DS10a opens, the V572 sends a C5-ON down the powerline.  You can then use that C5-ON to change the state of a phantom appliance module and/or trigger a macro.
I have a macro who's trigger is dependent upon the STATE of a DS10a and therefore operates ONLY upon RF from the sensor - I use SR731's to get the RF to the CM15.
4.  Do NOT transceive HC's with the V572 unless you really need them.  The V572 is very fast, but can flood the PL with PLC's.  Remember, the DS7000 is also a transceiver for whatever HC you have it set to.  Add in a few 751's and your PL gets clogged.
5. Your V572 will receive RF commands from AHP (via the CM15) and convert them to PLCs !
6. Try to get sensors registered everywhere they need to be registered before installing.  It's easier to have the DS10a in you hand as you install it into AHP, the V572, and the DS7000, then it is to have to walk out to that garage everytime you need to trip it.  And use a phantom switch to test macros, then when they're working, change the sensor to the installed switch.

Lighten up - what works today will probably NOT work every time.  Sometimes all of your lights will come on at 3 a.m. for no reason.  If you can't live/laugh with that - send us a list of your stuff & someone will offer to take it off your hands.  The DS7000 makes a damn fine DIY alarm system - but you sure do NOT want to bet your life/safety on AHP.

[Norm]

i don't have a DS7000, didn't know i needed one.

[PajamaGuy]

Well - I bet some other (smarter) folks jump in and tell you how to write macros to use AHP to make an alarm system.  If I wanted an alarm system first and the cool stuff second, , and I could get the RF reception in one central location (with or without SR731's) - and knowing what I've learned since last November - I'd get a DS7000 for the alarm work, and use AHP for the cool stuff.

[Puck]

I guess I'll have to reinstall the door/window sensors to work with the 751.

The door/window sensors send out a security RF signal, the TM751 will not work with it since it only recognizes normal X10 RF signals.

Anybody have any ideas why the macro works when triggered from the computer, but when triggered by the motion detector?

Either your motion detector's signal is not being received by the CM15A or there is a condition in the macro that is not true when the motion detector triggers it (conditions are ignored when macros are clicked on manually).

If your macro is being run from the PC (as opposed to stored in interface), you may have to Transceive the house code of the motion detector.

Also, my siren only sounds for about 4 seconds using a couple of on/off commands. When I use a single on command it acts as an annunciator. How do I turn on the siren and have it sound until I send an off command?

This is normal. Once the on/off sequence stops the alarm stops a few seconds later. There is no other way to have it stay on continuously (unfortunately).

[Brian H]

If the siren module is the smaller SH10A. You maybe able to trigger a continuous warble by sending the address on and then a series of on's.
Like if it is on M1 send an M1 Mon then a series of Mon Mon Mon. It triggers mine in tests. I believe that same set of commands is sent by the KR15A Big red Panic Button.
Mine; when triggered will not stop till a few offs are sent or four minutes elapses and it resets.
The larger PH508 will not react the same way.

[Norm]

I am using the PSH02 siren. The motion detector is apparently being recognized by the WR thing because I am using "G1" as the trigger, which I associated with the motion detector when I setup the WR thing. I have finally got the detector to trigger a macro which turns on the lights and sounds the siren using macro as follows:

Turn all lights on for house code 'G'
Turn G10 on
Turn G10 off
Turn G10 on
Turn G10 off
Turn G10 on
Wait for 5 minutes
Turn all units off for house code 'G'
Turn G10 off

I guess I'll try putting a few delays in and a few more "on's" to try and get the siren to sound longer. I also set the motion detector to "2" vs "1" to try and reduce false alarms.

I think I may has confused the WR thing original setup, because in the process of trying to get the door/window sensors to work, I have pressed the "test" button on the sensors...probably many times...not realizing that this may have confused the original setup e.g., signal discovery and PL code to be transmitted.

Next I plan to move the computer to the attic, take all of the door/window sensors, and recapture their signals and reassign the associated codes...and then maybe I can get them working.

Thanks for all the help and suggestions. I'll let everyone know how resetting the WR thing goes.

[Norm]

New problem. Now that the motion detector can communicate with my computer and the macro (AHP) can turn on the lights and sound the siren.....I have learned that apparently the MS10A sends a signal about every hour and a half, which is the same as if the motion detector had been triggered! So I get an alarm every 1.5 hours. It appears that the signal is supposed to let a security console know the sensor is alive and the battery is OK. Further, it appears the door/window sensors do the same thing. AHP may be able to deal with "I'm OK" signals if a security sensor is used to trigger a macro, but I don't believe it can if a "code" like G1 is used. Any thoughts?