Print

Please login or register.
1 Hour 1 Day 1 Week 1 Month Forever
Login with username, password and session length

[DowNet]

You can't turn the CM15A's transiciever off.  That's why a lot of us X10/Active Home Pro users have the plug-in transcievers.  Trying to modify a CM15A to not trancieve VOIDS THE WARRENTY!!!

Okay...maybe I'm misstating.  What I mean by "turningn the tranciever off" is making it so it does NOT respond to RF commands.  I have tested this and it can be done (you do it in the configuration screen of the unit by selecting "none" for what codes you want trancieved - beit by the RF remotes).  At the same time that same module can send powerline codes out to the modules via the PC.  this does work.

[Charles Sullivan]

Dan Lawrence and DowNet:
To improve the RF signal sent from your Stick-a-Switch, cut a length of straight wire about 18 inches long and tape it to the wall horizontally and just above the switch.  (If this sounds crazy, consider how a YAGI antenna works.)

One way to somewhat improve the RF reception range of a CM15A without voiding the warranty is to tape a length of wire to the existing antenna tube with scotch tape.  Aluminum wire is lightweight and won't put undue stress on the flimsy antenna when it's swung out perpendicular to the wall.  Somewhat better coupling between the (bare) wire and the antenna wire inside the tube would be achieved by wrapping them together with a srip of aluminum foil before taping.

One place I've never been able to make a wireless wall switch work is on a wall which is plaster over metal lath.  I couldn't transceive the signal with a TM751 plugged in 3 feet away.

[DowNet]

Dan Lawrence and DowNet:
To improve the RF signal sent from your Stick-a-Switch, cut a length of straight wire about 18 inches long and tape it to the wall horizontally and just above the switch.  (If this sounds crazy, consider how a YAGI antenna works.)

One way to somewhat improve the RF reception range of a CM15A without voiding the warranty is to tape a length of wire to the existing antenna tube with scotch tape.  Aluminum wire is lightweight and won't put undue stress on the flimsy antenna when it's swung out perpendicular to the wall.  Somewhat better coupling between the (bare) wire and the antenna wire inside the tube would be achieved by wrapping them together with a srip of aluminum foil before taping.

One place I've never been able to make a wireless wall switch work is on a wall which is plaster over metal lath.  I couldn't transceive the signal with a TM751 plugged in 3 feet away.

Does it matter if my CM15A is plugged in vertically or horizontally itself?

[Dan Lawrence]

Dan Lawrence and DowNet:
To improve the RF signal sent from your Stick-a-Switch, cut a length of straight wire about 18 inches long and tape it to the wall horizontally and just above the switch.  (If this sounds crazy, consider how a YAGI antenna works.)

One way to somewhat improve the RF reception range of a CM15A without voiding the warranty is to tape a length of wire to the existing antenna tube with scotch tape.  Aluminum wire is lightweight and won't put undue stress on the flimsy antenna when it's swung out perpendicular to the wall.  Somewhat better coupling between the (bare) wire and the antenna wire inside the tube would be achieved by wrapping them together with a srip of aluminum foil before taping.

One place I've never been able to make a wireless wall switch work is on a wall which is plaster over metal lath.  I couldn't transceive the signal with a TM751 plugged in 3 feet away.

No thanks, it works fine with the RR501.  The TM751 isn't as good as the RR501. I still have a 751 in my "X10 box", along with my CM11A from AH days.

[Charles Sullivan]

Dan wrote:
"No thanks, it works fine with the RR501.  The TM751 isn't as good as the RR501. I still have a 751 in my "X10 box", along with my CM11A from AH days."

I hear that a lot about the RR501 versus the TM751, but the first transceiver I owned was a TM751 and it had a better RF receiving range than any of the three highly-touted RR501 units which had been offered to replace it.  Reception from one wireless wall switch location in the house was "iffy" with the TM751 but practically zilch with the RR501s.

In an attempt to quantify the difference I had observed in the house (namely that the RR501s weren't up to the job), I ran a 50 ft extension cord from the house to one end of my long driveway.  I plugged in either the TM751 or the RR501 with a lamp attached and with the transceiver setting on a box about 2 feet high.  Then while alternately clicking the On and Off buttons on a PalmPad I moved further and further away until I could see that the lamp was no longer responding.  This was about 8 or 9 years ago and I don't remember all the details, but the RR501 worked out to about 90-100 feet while the TM751 exceeded that by about 20-30 feet.  (I swapped the two transceiver units twice to make sure a running-down battery in the PalmPad wasn't an influence, and I held the PalmPalm in the same orientation all the time.)

[Dan Lawrence]

I had a TM751 in the Living Room (with the Stick-a-Switch) and recption was hit or miss.  Replaced it with a RR501 and have fine recption. A second RR501 went in the kitchen.

I would not use a TM751 again.

[DowNet]

I had a TM751 in the Living Room (with the Stick-a-Switch) and reception was hit or miss.  Replaced it with a RR501 and have fine rreception A second RR501 went in the kitchen.

I would not use a TM751 again.

The problem with using the TM751 and RR501/PAT01 is that you lose the functionality of the CM15A for macros, timers, etc.  You are limited by just on/off - dimming etc.  This is from my experience.  And depending on the amount you put in a room, it can make or break your system.  That's why in my case I wanted to preserve the functionality of the CM15A.

[Charles Sullivan]

Dan Lawrence and DowNet:
To improve the RF signal sent from your Stick-a-Switch, cut a length of straight wire about 18 inches long and tape it to the wall horizontally and just above the switch.  (If this sounds crazy, consider how a YAGI antenna works.)

One way to somewhat improve the RF reception range of a CM15A without voiding the warranty is to tape a length of wire to the existing antenna tube with scotch tape.  Aluminum wire is lightweight and won't put undue stress on the flimsy antenna when it's swung out perpendicular to the wall.  Somewhat better coupling between the (bare) wire and the antenna wire inside the tube would be achieved by wrapping them together with a srip of aluminum foil before taping.

One place I've never been able to make a wireless wall switch work is on a wall which is plaster over metal lath.  I couldn't transceive the signal with a TM751 plugged in 3 feet away.

Does it matter if my CM15A is plugged in vertically or horizontally itself?

It's hard to say, there being so many variables.  But I think the orientation of the antenna is probably the most important consideration.

[Charles Sullivan]

I had a TM751 in the Living Room (with the Stick-a-Switch) and reception was hit or miss.  Replaced it with a RR501 and have fine rreception A second RR501 went in the kitchen.

I would not use a TM751 again.

The problem with using the TM751 and RR501/PAT01 is that you lose the functionality of the CM15A for macros, timers, etc.  You are limited by just on/off - dimming etc.  This is from my experience.  And depending on the amount you put in a room, it can make or break your system.  That's why in my case I wanted to preserve the functionality of the CM15A.

How so?   CM15A macros can be triggered by a powerline command sent by a RR501/TM751 as easily as an RF command, the main difference being the additional delay for the powerline signal from the RR501/TM751 to reach the CM15A. 

[Dan Lawrence]

The problem with using the TM751 and RR501/PAT01 is that you lose the functionality of the CM15A for macros, timers, etc.  You are limited by just on/off - dimming etc.  This is from my experience.  And depending on the amount you put in a room, it can make or break your system.  That's why in my case I wanted to preserve the functionality of the CM15A.

Wrong Again.   My single macro resides in the CM15A.  The only function the two RR501's do is recieve the RF signals from their RF controllers (Stick-a-Swich units). They do not house or transmit macros.

[DowNet]

The problem with using the TM751 and RR501/PAT01 is that you lose the functionality of the CM15A for macros, timers, etc.  You are limited by just on/off - dimming etc.  This is from my experience.  And depending on the amount you put in a room, it can make or break your system.  That's why in my case I wanted to preserve the functionality of the CM15A.

Wrong Again.   My single macro resides in the CM15A.  The only function the two RR501's do is recieve the RF signals from their RF controllers (Stick-a-Swich units). They do not house or transmit macros.

My bad...I misstated.  What I meant was, by using the RR501/PAT01 is that you lose macro functionality being that those units do not support macro (at least that I know of).  So it's ideal to have your "switch" some how been seen by your CM15A so  you can use its other benefits (macros) from the "stick switch."  This is what I desire.

Seems that you are getting a bit tempermental with me, Dan, not sure why.  All due respect, I have not been wrong yet (minus my mis-statement).  What I want to do regarding the 2 CM15As can be done according to an X10 tech rep and a Smarthome Tech rep.  I spoke with them both today.  They just told me, as long as I don't activate the RF-receiving transceiver PC - CM15A, I should be good to go.  <----by this I mean, going into the CM15A configuration menu and select "none" for trancieving codes.  This will disable the RF recieving side of the tranciever but the unit will STILL BE ABLE to send out PLC commands via the PC-control (ActiveHome Pro).

[DowNet]

I had a TM751 in the Living Room (with the Stick-a-Switch) and reception was hit or miss.  Replaced it with a RR501 and have fine rreception A second RR501 went in the kitchen.

I would not use a TM751 again.

The problem with using the TM751 and RR501/PAT01 is that you lose the functionality of the CM15A for macros, timers, etc.  You are limited by just on/off - dimming etc.  This is from my experience.  And depending on the amount you put in a room, it can make or break your system.  That's why in my case I wanted to preserve the functionality of the CM15A.

How so?   CM15A macros can be triggered by a powerline command sent by a RR501/TM751 as easily as an RF command, the main difference being the additional delay for the powerline signal from the RR501/TM751 to reach the CM15A. 

Charles,  please fill me in on how this can be done.  All the macro functions I see so far have to do with RF-type commands only. I do not see where it can be done via PLC.  I'm all ears (or eyes)

Update:  nevermind I found it....looks like I have to study how the powerline codes are sent...cause it looks like you have to know the right command bytes plug in.

[Charles Sullivan]

How so?   CM15A macros can be triggered by a powerline command sent by a RR501/TM751 as easily as an RF command, the main difference being the additional delay for the powerline signal from the RR501/TM751 to reach the CM15A. 

Charles,  please fill me in on how this can be done.  All the macro functions I see so far have to do with RF-type commands only. I do not see where it can be done via PLC.  I'm all ears (or eyes)

Update:  nevermind I found it....looks like I have to study how the powerline codes are sent...cause it looks like you have to know the right command bytes plug in.

Poweline X10 codes are usually sent manually with a plug-in controller like X-10's Mini- or Maxi-Controller, but they can also be sent by another interface like the CM15A or CM11A, or in response to an RF signal by a transceiver like the RR501 or TM751.

[DowNet]

Thanks to all for all the help.  I did not know that the CM15A can RECEIVE PLC codes to run macros etc.  I thought it can only transmit them.  Being so, I decided to go with the 1135K X10 TW523 & ALL HOUSECODE RF TRANSCEIVER which in-turn will pretty much extend my CM15A's, if you will, range via PLC.  All regular commands will be controlled via the TW523 and any macros will be sent (PLC) to the CM15A hooked up to the PC for execution.  The CM15A's RF receive link will be turned off or set to "none" in the AHP's configuration window so I won't get conjestion on the powerlines.

Thanks again!    Regards.

[dave w]

After wading through all this, I still wonder why two CM15As can not be used with each other? They are polite so should not trample each other...