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Glad to hear it's working!

Just a quick update.
I set up 4 of the six fixtures and then got sick, so no more up and down the ladders. The Switck (WS469) was still not working on the LEDs but thought it would need to wait until I wasable to agin ascend the ladder. Then I did my customary re-install and update of both RPi and HG and VOILA!!! everything works. It may be the change of seasons or something my neighbors stopped doing in their property but now it works. Once I can once again trust my legs to take on the ladder, I will finish the upgrade and let you know about the changes in operation. I have, on occasion noticed improvements in function with updates in both RPi and HG so maybe this has happened again.

Dave

I've been using the Yolink modules which are long range RF controlled and not WiFi.  It's just over almost 2 years now and I'm up to about 35 devices including about 10 leak detectors.  Only the hub is connected to WiFi and modules can be set to talk to each other or through the hub.  Very tight Alexa integration and Matter compliance is coming.
yosmart.com

I have a hybrid system consisting of X-10 modules and switches and TP Link switches and some Amazon branded switches. All the X-10 stuff is controlled by the CM15a and everything is voice controlled by Alexa and a Smartenit Harmony.

One  reason for not ditching X-10 is simply the desire to retain local control. Lose the internet and you've lost control of your cloud based system. Since my TP Link and Amazon switches just control outside lights, I still have home automation inside with local control.

Just my 0.02

Hello X-people

I'm a long-time x-10 enthusiast and advocate, and I've been frustrated and perplexed, like many of you, during that same time when an xps-2 comes to life on its own, for example.

I came across an amazon deal of 2 TPLink Tapo Matter smart light switches for $25, and it got me thinking and wondering of perhaps switching to a newer and different technology. On the surface, these 2 switches are certainly cheaper than one xps3 switch. I looked up what Matter HA is, and I'm not sure that I learned anything.

My set up is very simple, consisting of 3 xps3's, one xps2 for the pool pump, a socket rocket, and a plug-in appliance module.

While I realize that possibly leaving x-10 shouldn't be in this forum, but I ask for possible suggestions on a next system that is "simple", app-driven, addresses my system needs, and that isn't as quirky as x-10.

Thanks

Very interesting situation!  At least next time it happens you'll know where to start unplugging things.
My first guess was that someone plugged in that awful Cellet wall wart I sent you years ago but no amount of breaker flipping would fix that sucker!   

That sounds like a possibility.
I had two power dips. Counted on my power line monitor.
That I suspect where too brief to do a power on reset on some devices.
I have a HD radio where all the settings got messed up.
A full power cycle did not cause the issues that the brief power cause.
If the noise was still there it definitely would have more light on it.

I have a curious one to report.  I had hit the "1-OFF" button on the PalmPad in our theater room and nothing happened.  So I dimmed the lights manually.  After the movie the "1-ON" button didn't work either.  Both work through a TM751 plugged into a nearby outlet, and trigger macros in the Ocelot.  I didn't think too much about it at the time because that's how Alexa often ignored commands.  But the next morning I noticed that our irrigation system wasn't working right (controlled by an X10 WGL Rain8 irrigation controller).  Hmm...

I went into our utility room where the prototype XTBR boosts X10 signals on the X10 phase.  Its green light was flickering constantly, indicating a continuous stream of potential X10 commands.  I grabbed my XTBM-Pro prototype to see what was going on.  It didn't detect any valid X10 commands, but it did indicate continuous .24V to .26V noise at 124KHz.  While not directly inside the X10 bandpass, that is close enough to cause problems.

So I started flipping off breakers one-by-one and then back on.  Two breakers caused the noise level to change, but the flickering of the XTBR's green LED continued.  Then one breaker killed the noise and stopped the flickering.  But when I turned it back on, neither the noise nor the flickering returned.  There are no X10 transmitters on that circuit.  I suspect some electronic device on that circuit started injecting noise onto the powerline, and cycling power restored normal operation.  I wish the problem had returned when I turned the breaker  back on so I could have tracked down the cause.

It has been over a week since that happened, and our X10 system is still back to 100% reliability

I do the same camera trick when I want to see if lights are really ON. Lol, I thought I may be the only one. Smart and clever

Thanks for the docs.  The two versions of the dry contact 4 channel modules differ in their wire color 1-4 assignments in addition to one transmitting on a contact open and the other does not transmit on an open.

I found the line monitoring logic useful to prevent collisions when two or more of these modules are used.

Thanks again.